Ignition won't turn

[palufish]

New to the forum so hi everybody! Cheesy introductions aside, my girlfriend and I have just bought a T25 in the past few weeks and unfortunately, neither of us are very mechanically or electrically knowledgable - although we are having to learn fast! Today we tried to start the van only to find that the key wouldn't turn far enough in the ignition to start the engine (and yes, we had taken it out of steering lock by this point, we're not that clueless!). Anyway, we've tried all the quick fixes such as hitting it with a hammer and using WD40, but alas, they have come to no avail. Is it going to be a case of just having to buy a new ignition barrel for it, or does anyone know of any other solutions to this sort of problem? We'd preferably like to avoid getting a mechanic or locksmith to do the job as it'd likely be very expensive for what is probably a simple problem to fix yourself. Also, this is probably a long shot, but does anyone know where might be good to go to pick up the required parts in the Edinburgh/Central Scotland area?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

Alex.

P.S. Just before this problem occurred, the lights and window wipers both "half broke". That is, the lights don't go into low beam anymore, only dipped, but they do however go into high beam but only if I keep the lever pulled back. Even more confusing, the window wipers only work (at a far slower pace than usual) while I am keeping the high beam lever pulled back! I doubt that these problems are related with the ignition, but I thought I'd mention it anyway in the vain hope someone might know what's going on here too without looking at it in person!

[ghost123uk]

Hi to both of you

Re lock, our information data base has answers to most of the things you need to know. Note however that we are not the sort of website that says to questioners "don't ask here, it's all in the database" so feel free to ask (but don't ask about "what oil should I use" (club 80-90 in joke ) This data base is called the "wiki" and a link is at the top(ish) left(ish) side of every page on here.

Here is it's information on ignition key problems = HERE and HERE

But as said, if you need more info, just ask

Re other electrical faults. This is almost certainly a bad earth issue. The first place to look is up by the passengers left foot (assuming RHD). There you will find an "earth crown" where about 8 or 10 spade connectors connect to one "crown" bolted to the bodywork. If you get at it and give it a proper clean up you may well find that problem goes away. If it doesn't, pop back here

Please add the year and engine type of your van to your signature (edited via your "user Control Panel") as this helps when asking technical questions. Like even your issue could be different if pre or post 1986 as the fuse boxes and associated wiring are different.

[Ralf85]

Beat me to it.

If you have checked all the other electrical issues including the battery (check the wicki first there is plenty of useful info there) it could be the ignition switch (not the barrel) New ignition switches are readily available and cost just a few pounds.

[bigherb]

If the key turns enough to release the steering lock and switch on the ignition lights but not turn any further then it is most likely the ignition switch not the key barrel. The switch has a lockout cam so you can't switch the starter on again until you have switched the ignition off, worn switches this jams stopping the starter from operating.

[California Dreamin]

I Agree ^^^^^^ the ignition switches reach a point where the contacts have burnt and pitted leading to high resistance / heat then melting......

Take about an hour to change...follow the WIKI.

Part costs £5.86 plus post

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t ... ch-t3.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Martin

[DianeB]

Hi, other owner here. Thanks for all the advice. We changed the ignition switch which now lets the key turn freely all the way round. However rusty still isn't starting. We have charged we battery but this isn't helping. Any suggestions of what we could look at next. When the key is turned lights come on and then heater light for the diesel goes off after 10 seconds as we would expect but she just isn't starting. There are some clicking noises which sound electrical both at the wiring below the dashboard and in one of the wire plug things at the back. Thanks to anyone who has any advice.

:From Diane and Alex

[California Dreamin]

As you have a know good battery, and the contacts are all sound? the click at the rear indicates switching of some kind to the starter solenoid but the 'Non Cranking' indicates current isn't actually getting to the main starter body.

Could be:

The copper braided wire between starter solenoid and the main body of the motor has corroded badly.
Poor main feed to the starter (loose or corroded wire to the solenoid)
Bad earth...often the braided earth connection on the gearbox corrodes away or the ends are not good. (fitting another good earth strap in a different place will rectify this)
Corroded terminal/and or, last few centimetres of wire on the solenoid trigger wire corroded.
Main contacts in the solenoid eroded.
Starter carbon brushes worn out, same goes for the commutator (the contacts the brushes touch)

Martin