Syncro links page

Repairs and Maintenance

• The Syncro 4 wheel drive system explained
• Do's and don'ts
• VC removal and refitting
• Prop-shaft removal, refurbishment and refitting
• Prop-shaft bush replacement Prop shaft ringing suppression
• Fuel Filter
• Petrol tank
• Diff-lock actuators
• Speedo diff drive gear replacement
• Front outer CVJ repair
• Front outer CVJ seals
• Gearbox and diff oil
• CV Boots - Front

Chassis

• Factory Strengthening

Bodywork

• Wheel arch mouldings

Wheels and Tyres

• Tyres explained
• How big can I go
• Alternative rims and tyre combinations
• Syncro tyre rotation
• Tyre size/Gear ratio optimisation

Suspension

• Syncro suspension
  • Alignment Settings

Specifications

• Weights and towing
• General 4X4
• Wheel arches and mudflaps
• Differences between models
• Specifications - Oils

Syncro specific parts

• General Syncro Parts
• Engine Parts (Syncro-specific)
• Gearchange Parts (Syncro-specific)
• Syncro Handbrake cable
• Bolts for under-run prop-bars

Testing and buying guides

• Testing syncro features/Buyers FAQ

Syncro brochures and VW adverising

• The Syncro Life

Syncro Websites

club80-90 syncro website

syncro.org

Syncro Differences

• Differences
• 14"-16" differences

Off-Road Sites

• Pay and Plays

Expedition vehicles

Preparations

Syncro lover: Off on my travels soon with my 1.6TD T25 Syncro... to Denmark and beyond?

What do I need to take and check before I leave

HarryMann: This is a hard question to answer if we don't know what you have done, checked, repaired or refurbed previously and what that van has been subjected to over the years. I'm sure you can understand that, but for starters...

Plenty of (proper Turbo-diesel spec) oil and an alternator belt. If you expect any duration of a day or two on dry dusty tracks then a spare air-filter element, but start with a new or cleaned one, they can to an extent be knocked out and vacuumed or blown out.

A glo-plug fusible link (55 Amp?) for the junction box (see * below)

Check the injector return hoses look OK and are not soaked in fuel and that the injection solid pipes have the vibration restraint bands fitted (2 off) Check the turbo oil-feed pipe is also fastened to prevent vibration behind the cylinder head

Fit a new fuel-filter or at least drain the one you have, but watch the silly return connection on the top isn't/doesn't start leaking or letting air in the fuel circuit. Check your pump LDA is working (diaphragm) and she pulls well under load. Be aware of the expected coolant temperature needle positions at various speeds/loads and that the rad fan stages come on properly...

Additionally you don't say if you intend to drive off-road at any time, if so, to what extent and how challenging that might be.

So, if you are not 100% sure of the state of the shafts, take a complete rear shaft or if not possible, one spare std. CVJ with boot.

Definitely take the tools to tighten/remove a CVJ, so check if you have hex or 12-point or a mix of driveshaft bolts.

Check the steering rod rubber UJs for splits/perishing (two sets) under the bash plate.

A spare alternator or diode pack set isn't a bad idea too... and if there's any doubt about the starter motor, then ditto. These can all be packaged up in bubble-wrap nice and tight and fastened/jammed in the locker...

Check the auxiliary water pump is actually working.

Check all the exhaust manifold and turbo to manifold and turbo to exhaust bolts are tight, and that either of the silencer rubber mounts aren't split.

One of the biggest threats to a TD IMHO is the oil pressure and turbo seals condition... it's always a good idea to check the hot oil pressure in absolute numbers at idle and about 2,000 rpm before a long trip. .9 bar and a bar per 1000 rpm at higher revs when hot is good to go.

If oil is actually dripping rather than just oily underneath the turbo and sump drain area after a long hot run then not a good sign, but not unusual, a matter of degree!

Handbrake adjustment and rear brake condition and integrity.. a quick drum-off and de-dust and re-adjust isn't a bad idea.

Also a good idea to check the fan is coming on both speed stages and that the main rad is fairly clean and not blocked with a million flies.

A quick check when the bash-plate is off that none of the front water pipe joints are leaking also good.

If you can check the gbox and diff oi levels, or at least check the flange output shaft seals are not dripping leaking badly and there is not excessive whirl on those output transmission output bearings.

Take some dayglo slip-on jackets and hang them up behind the front seats, so POLICE can see you have them on-board, and a warning triangle easily accessible, as well as a fire-extinguisher than can be grabbed quickly - I have velcroed mine to the plastic mat between my seat and the door so I slide over it when getting in and out... but its still there two yeasr later (just!)

* Check the wiring for the glo-plugs from inside the junction box to the plugs - this is one of the most common causes of fire on Diesels, as that wiring is very tight, bunched and messed about with... any signs of overheating from the fusible link onwards then look closer.

Obviously, check the battery condition, security and terminals/cable. If you can see the starter terminals, check that both main and solenoid wires aren't likely to touch the bodywork above starter, and look OK and well insulated (another potential electrical danger area)

Tools... Check your jacking points for corrosion and if unhappy take another type of jack. Take one or two hefty blocks of wood and a 9" x 9" plate of 3/4 or 1" ply A 1/2" or 3/4" sq. drive powerbar with a 19mm impact socket A club hammer, a good jemmy, a small terry saw, a pruning saw or axe also a good idea. A quality adjustable spanner of a decent size and again, quality Mole-grips with flat faces (not those useless curved jaw Chines copies) A reliable tyre pressure gauge, check them when cool in the morning and make sure you know what they should be for the tyre and load. An electric tyre-pump is not a bad idea either, if you are straying far from tarmac or dense civilization! (The round Michelin one is a good pump if you can get a deal on it (Halfords maybe?), but at £55 retail, is a tad expensive, the cheaper one without the removable gauge is what I've got, and excellent. An extra cigar -lighter socket somewhere in the back a good idea too.

The best tool of course is a guaranteed repatriation recovery service.. :wink:

Driving

If it tends to get very hot on climbs, then let it roll down the slopes before a hill as fast as it wants to chill-it as much as possible, letting the speed bleed off gradually as it climbs, coming down the gears rather than pushing too hard for too long - it'll be heavy! Ditto side or headwinds , don't push it! Again, if it tends to get very hot, stop at viewpoints/laybys when climbing up which'll let it cool rather than sticking it out to the very top... i.e. take photos and tea breaks on the way up :wink: Even if the revcounter sits at 4,000 or more, let the engine do the braking on long descents, I've not heard of TDs having problems due to revs alone and even the 1.9s don't mind 4.5 to 5k.

Have a nice trip and consider writing it all up for us when back :)

Computer and Satnav installations

Amulet: Okay I'll try not to make this response too much like an essay...

I built a vanputor into my syncro about a year and a half ago. The main reasons behind it were that I was travelling through a number of different countries and wanted to run mutliple sat nav systems from one platform. The idea started to mushroom from there with the obvious other benefits that a pc in the van would bring such as big mp3 playback facilities, VAG interface to the ECU, web browsing, email, downloading digital pics from the camera when the memory gets full and the list goes on.

I decided to build a windows based 'car' pc. When I was researching everything (and it might have changed now) the following websites offered the best advice:

mp3car

cartft

digital-car

letscommunicate

thetabletpc.net

ross-tech

gendan

I found cartft to be the best value for components and sourced everything from the touchscreen monitor to the motherboard from them. Other bits like the VAG interface and software I sourced from the bottom two links and then just salveged two laptop 20GB hardrives which work a treat. The spec of the install is as follows:

- VGA Touchscreen monitor – in dash - Voom PC / Amphie Computer Case - M1-ATX Power Supply (important as prevents overloading when you crank your ignition if running of the main battery) - VIA M10000 Motherboard - RAM 512 DDR 400 - USB DVD ROM / CDRW Panasonic - USB GPS Reciever (SIRF3 Chipset) - Linksys USB Wireless Modem - 2X 20 GB harddrive - Windows XP Pro - Centrafuse (car interface management software to prevent squinting to use small pc icons) - Touratech GPS software - Memory Map GPS ordance survey - MS Autoroute

I'm not that techy but found it quite a simple job to do the install myself. It's been through some pretty tough terrain and stood the test well with 0 faults to report which is more than can be said for my ECU which went caput when put through the same conditions...!

Taken from the follwing 80-90 forum thread Camper thread on vanputers