Syncro Parts - general
Fuel tank straps
Syncro fuel-tank straps in Stainless available here
NB. The following avoids having to remove the tank to repair the original (front) tank-strap anchor bolts. It worked fine, but is not a 'restoration' technique really, it's a 'get you out of trouble' method, until a proper restoration can be done.
HarryMann: Having found that there wasn't much to attach any new straps to at the front of the tank (in fact couldn't even see up there how the originals had been attached), decided to use some thin stainless strip to make some up. To attach each one, to the back of the aft cross-member, I drilled two holes as high up as I could get with an extension drill bit, then bent up some clips from numpty metal rod. Hopefully the photos will explain...
It's fairly easy to utilise the original rear strap brackets, spot-welding thru to the stainless, or even simply Tucker pop-rivetting them together. [Full-res photos supplied on request]
NB. If the tank straps are corroded badly, it's highly likely the fuel pump body may also be at the point it starts leaking due to corrosion, often bi-metallic corrosion due to starp bracket attachment contact (mine had a plastic filler repair, fuel poured out as I removed it from bracket). Have found many others reporting same, here and in the US. Wrap new pump in plastic before fitting or use Duralac assembly compound (see General - Tips, Tricks & Techniques)
De-rusting tank so-so straps Bodywork and Glass - Rust - Elecrolytic de-rusting
And! Even more ways of repairng tank straps...
by just replacing the really rotten parts and drilling out the spot-welds to remove the doublers (thickeners) for anchoring brackets at each end (in pictures)
Nearside, extensively welded to fill-in perforations, and strengthen edges. NB. Slot cut to remove strap without
disconnecting tank fuel supply hose, retained in repaired item, for easy refitting.
Offside (Right-hand)
Spot-welds drilled out to re-use the end bracket termination stiffeners. Plus make one simple strap (2" x 1mm) and a complete refurbished part should last another 20 years.
The kit of parts, old rusty main-strap used as a guide pattern only.
NB. Size does matter in this case! So use the old parts to make the finished length correct.
Tools:
Spot-weld drill (cobalt)
Handbrake cables
(VW part numbers):
Left 251 609 701 D (1436mm)
Right 251 609 702 (1390mm)
Captive nuts for front bash-plate
GaryD: I tried my local dealer to get the M6 captive nuts which are used to hold the protection plate which mounts between the front bumper and the front suspension frame. They told me they were no longer available. CJ & Brickyard confirmed this.
A chance comment led to the information that the under-engine tray of the Passat (year 2000 was suggested) uses similar fixings. A further enquiry with the dealer confirmed this and an order has produced the ten needed. They seem to be essentially identical to the Transporter fixings.
Part number is N-901-686-04 and they are 64p each.
Hope this is helpful.
Simon Baxter: Problem is the width, any "normal" fixing, spire(speed) clip sort of thing are too wide to fit the VW hole. I think Wurth do some narrow ones but any normal nut and bolt place will struggle. Drill and rivnut them, use hex head, integral washer self tappers with speed (spire) clips for the sides, the back three are M8 x 16 ish with a repair washer!
HarryMann: Indeed Simon! For the front bashplate, I just use M8 nuts and bolts about 20mm long, 3 per side if I can get them through the holes, else 2. Never had a problem, and quick enough to fit or remove... do not bother attaching front lip, but beat it out straight once per year!
I did find some captive nuts, almost identical to the original VW ones, they were Mercedes parts!
Accelerator cable
RHD syncro 2.1 DJ accelerator cable = 3700mm part number 252 721 555 R
Drive shaft bolts
The front inner drive-shaft bolts are 50mm long, 2mm longer than the 2WD and the Syncro rears. The front driveshaft flanges have thick steel spacers between the flanges and the inner CV joints.
The 6 bolts per joint use special serrated & hardened lock washers and go through 3 curved load spreader plates then into the joints. Torque is typically 30 ~ 32 ft-lb; the bolts can and do become loose if anything in the installation is imperfect. Use the higher torque figures preferably as well as ensuring all mating surfaces are clean before assembly.
The bolts come in two flavours, hex socket cap-head and 12-point drive bolts - veeryone has their favourites, maybe more important is having them all the same and ensuring a suitable drive tool is in your tool-kit!
