rear hubs, help please

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belle in progress
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rear hubs, help please

Post by belle in progress »

hi, i need to put long studs onto the rear hubs, ive seen the wiki but long studs wont go in from behind so need to get the hub off. ive spoken to my vw garage for advice and the local spares shop.
is there a way of putting the long studs on without removing the hubs if not how can i do this at home, the nut is massive and im told it will take alot to get it off.

so can this job be done at home with limited tools??
if so how??

have already spent too long scratching my head!!!!
"if it bends its funny" "if it breaks its even funnier" M&C 1994

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Post by Flibbertigibbet »

Look a few threads down maybe that will help :D
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Grun
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Re: rear hubs, help please

Post by Grun »

belle in progress,
Take a look
here
and here
For starters, or try doing a search, there have been several posts on the subject, modifed forum also worth a look. Once the hubs are off it is easy to press the old studs out and the new ones in if your garage has an hydraulic press.
Mike
'Two 'eads is better'n wun even if mine's a sheeps'
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belle in progress
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Post by belle in progress »

grun,

thats great advice the impact hammer looks perfect. tract it down easy at bbt for a tenner, it says on the page that the nuts are designed to be replaced,

so have i gotta replace the nut???
"if it bends its funny" "if it breaks its even funnier" M&C 1994

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Grun
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Re: rear hubs, help please

Post by Grun »

belle in progress,
I have never replaced a REAR nut, and I suspect that perhaps the wiki entry has confused things as the FRONT nuts should be changed as they are peened into the axle to prevent them turning. Haynes says if the rear nuts have six split pin slots, they should be replaced with nuts having ten slots. I can see that you would be able to achieve a more accurate torque with a choice of ten slots, but hey who has a torque wrench that reads in excess of 258 lbs/ft anyway. Haynes says the ten slot nuts are 369 lbs/ft. If you mark the slots and fit the hubs and nuts back on their original positions, I do not think you will have any problems. Undo nuts with wheels fitted and the van on the ground handbrake on really tight and wheels chocked. I did mine recently and it was much easier than my old bay window camper that I had done about 5 years ago. I am old and very slim and light so anyone can do it! I used a 3/4 inch drive Draper breaker bar and 46mm socket, and the bar did flex when I jacked it gently with the trolley jack but I left it and had a cuppa, letting the penetrating oil do its thing, and it just gradually eased off. Both rear nuts are right hand. (Anticlockwise to remove.)
Mike
'Two 'eads is better'n wun even if mine's a sheeps'
Grun
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