hi, i need to put long studs onto the rear hubs, ive seen the wiki but long studs wont go in from behind so need to get the hub off. ive spoken to my vw garage for advice and the local spares shop.
is there a way of putting the long studs on without removing the hubs if not how can i do this at home, the nut is massive and im told it will take alot to get it off.
so can this job be done at home with limited tools??
if so how??
have already spent too long scratching my head!!!!
rear hubs, help please
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rear hubs, help please
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Re: rear hubs, help please
belle in progress,
Take a look
here
and here
For starters, or try doing a search, there have been several posts on the subject, modifed forum also worth a look. Once the hubs are off it is easy to press the old studs out and the new ones in if your garage has an hydraulic press.
Mike
Take a look
here
and here
For starters, or try doing a search, there have been several posts on the subject, modifed forum also worth a look. Once the hubs are off it is easy to press the old studs out and the new ones in if your garage has an hydraulic press.
Mike
'Two 'eads is better'n wun even if mine's a sheeps'
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
- belle in progress
- Registered user
- Posts: 254
- Joined: 07 Nov 2005, 14:08
- 80-90 Mem No: 2205
- Location: Romford Essex
- Contact:
Re: rear hubs, help please
belle in progress,
I have never replaced a REAR nut, and I suspect that perhaps the wiki entry has confused things as the FRONT nuts should be changed as they are peened into the axle to prevent them turning. Haynes says if the rear nuts have six split pin slots, they should be replaced with nuts having ten slots. I can see that you would be able to achieve a more accurate torque with a choice of ten slots, but hey who has a torque wrench that reads in excess of 258 lbs/ft anyway. Haynes says the ten slot nuts are 369 lbs/ft. If you mark the slots and fit the hubs and nuts back on their original positions, I do not think you will have any problems. Undo nuts with wheels fitted and the van on the ground handbrake on really tight and wheels chocked. I did mine recently and it was much easier than my old bay window camper that I had done about 5 years ago. I am old and very slim and light so anyone can do it! I used a 3/4 inch drive Draper breaker bar and 46mm socket, and the bar did flex when I jacked it gently with the trolley jack but I left it and had a cuppa, letting the penetrating oil do its thing, and it just gradually eased off. Both rear nuts are right hand. (Anticlockwise to remove.)
Mike
I have never replaced a REAR nut, and I suspect that perhaps the wiki entry has confused things as the FRONT nuts should be changed as they are peened into the axle to prevent them turning. Haynes says if the rear nuts have six split pin slots, they should be replaced with nuts having ten slots. I can see that you would be able to achieve a more accurate torque with a choice of ten slots, but hey who has a torque wrench that reads in excess of 258 lbs/ft anyway. Haynes says the ten slot nuts are 369 lbs/ft. If you mark the slots and fit the hubs and nuts back on their original positions, I do not think you will have any problems. Undo nuts with wheels fitted and the van on the ground handbrake on really tight and wheels chocked. I did mine recently and it was much easier than my old bay window camper that I had done about 5 years ago. I am old and very slim and light so anyone can do it! I used a 3/4 inch drive Draper breaker bar and 46mm socket, and the bar did flex when I jacked it gently with the trolley jack but I left it and had a cuppa, letting the penetrating oil do its thing, and it just gradually eased off. Both rear nuts are right hand. (Anticlockwise to remove.)
Mike
'Two 'eads is better'n wun even if mine's a sheeps'
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop