Fitting door seals.
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Fitting door seals.
Hi Guys
Just got around to fitting new main seals on the tailgate and front doors. QQ
1. The tailgate seal is split and comes with a joiner which is hard rubber and unlikely to compress much. Where do you position it?
(The old seal has a tubular rubber joiner (much more compressable) (can't reuse) and was located on the left side.)
2. The front door seal is continuous but fitting it means removing the door handles and panel to get it past the speaker cable.
I'm inclined to avoid the faff and cut the new seal.
Is this a bad idea? If not, where would you position the join? Guess I would need to have a joiner?
Cheers!
Pete
Just got around to fitting new main seals on the tailgate and front doors. QQ
1. The tailgate seal is split and comes with a joiner which is hard rubber and unlikely to compress much. Where do you position it?
(The old seal has a tubular rubber joiner (much more compressable) (can't reuse) and was located on the left side.)
2. The front door seal is continuous but fitting it means removing the door handles and panel to get it past the speaker cable.
I'm inclined to avoid the faff and cut the new seal.
Is this a bad idea? If not, where would you position the join? Guess I would need to have a joiner?
Cheers!
Pete
Re: Fitting door seals.
The rear seal on my camper joins at the bottom by the latch. Stiff joiner has gasket sealant each end.
On each front door there is also the pin arm to consider. So from outside the hinge bolts are in the way. From inside speaker wires and pin arm.
I would suggest cutting wires and removing pin arm to keep seal one piece.
Have you seal T clips too?
On each front door there is also the pin arm to consider. So from outside the hinge bolts are in the way. From inside speaker wires and pin arm.
I would suggest cutting wires and removing pin arm to keep seal one piece.
Have you seal T clips too?
MaxStu
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
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Re: Fitting door seals.
Piratepete wrote: ↑19 Mar 2022, 16:14 Hi Guys
Just got around to fitting new main seals on the tailgate and front doors. QQ
1. The tailgate seal is split and comes with a joiner which is hard rubber and unlikely to compress much. Where do you position it?
(The old seal has a tubular rubber joiner (much more compressable) (can't reuse) and was located on the left side.)
2. The front door seal is continuous but fitting it means removing the door handles and panel to get it past the speaker cable.
I'm inclined to avoid the faff and cut the new seal.
Is this a bad idea? If not, where would you position the join? Guess I would need to have a joiner?
Cheers!
Pete
photos got lost in the photobucket mists of time....
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Bodywork_and_Glass_Guide_to_fitting_Cab_Door_seals
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1985 Doka 1.9 DG 4 Speed Box
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1986 Fakefalia Syncro Subaru EJ25
1985 Doka 1.9 DG 4 Speed Box
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1986 Fakefalia Syncro Subaru EJ25
Re: Fitting door seals.
I’ve just done these 2 jobs. Stupidly bought cab door seals from JK and they are just too big. No chances the doors are closing. I removed the clevis pin from the check strap and having speakers fitted next week so no wire to worry about. The boot seal was a ball ache. I’ll get pictures that Brickwerks sent me as it was giving me a headache working it out, the last boot seal I used was a simple push in the channel type.
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Re: Fitting door seals.
Parts in the red outline go inside the channel
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Re: Fitting door seals.
Jonnyb416 wrote: ↑19 Mar 2022, 20:41 I’ve just done these 2 jobs. Stupidly bought cab door seals from JK and they are just too big. No chances the doors are closing. I removed the clevis pin from the check strap and having speakers fitted next week so no wire to worry about. The boot seal was a ball ache. I’ll get pictures that Brickwerks sent me as it was giving me a headache working it out, the last boot seal I used was a simple push in the channel type.
Mine is the same crossection. How does that big joiner in the picture compress?
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Re: Fitting door seals.
Just squashes in the groove. It was tight in places, I used a blunt large flat headed screwdriver to gently push it in, then carefully hammer the metal ‘u’ section metal lined part over the rim. If that makes sense?Piratepete wrote:Jonnyb416 wrote: ↑19 Mar 2022, 20:41 I’ve just done these 2 jobs. Stupidly bought cab door seals from JK and they are just too big. No chances the doors are closing. I removed the clevis pin from the check strap and having speakers fitted next week so no wire to worry about. The boot seal was a ball ache. I’ll get pictures that Brickwerks sent me as it was giving me a headache working it out, the last boot seal I used was a simple push in the channel type.
Mine is the same crossection. How does that big joiner in the picture compress?
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Just make sure you get it the right way round. Oh and sort of loosely pre-bend the metal as you get to the corners. Both top corners were particularly hard work.
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Re: Fitting door seals.
I ended up using second hand cab seals. New one was just too bulky!
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Re: Fitting door seals.
Hi Jonnyb
Tailgate. My issue is with the joiner. The seal tube has to compress when you close the tailgate. I don't see how it will compress with that solid looking joiner, which is what has been supplied to me.
Front Doors. A couple of the posts have mentioned T clips. The old seals were not secured with clips, just glue. Did you have clips? I guess they fit around the bottom. Are they really needed cos it's a p in the a if I've got to order some!
Pete
Tailgate. My issue is with the joiner. The seal tube has to compress when you close the tailgate. I don't see how it will compress with that solid looking joiner, which is what has been supplied to me.
Front Doors. A couple of the posts have mentioned T clips. The old seals were not secured with clips, just glue. Did you have clips? I guess they fit around the bottom. Are they really needed cos it's a p in the a if I've got to order some!
Pete
Re: Fitting door seals.
Piratepete wrote:Hi Jonnyb
Tailgate. My issue is with the joiner. The seal tube has to compress when you close the tailgate. I don't see how it will compress with that solid looking joiner, which is what has been supplied to me.
Won’t know until you try. My boot now only closes on the first latch. Hoping over time the seal compresses a little.
Front Doors. A couple of the posts have mentioned T clips. The old seals were not secured with clips, just glue. Did you have clips? I guess they fit around the bottom. Are they really needed cos it's a p in the a if I've got to order some!
I’ve never used a clip for the cab door seals. The only part that needs glueing is where it runs down the door near the A pillar. A clip, I presume, will make this easier and I wish I’d know about them beforehand, but glue will suffice.
Hope that helps.
Pete
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Re: Fitting door seals.
If you carefully view a quality door seal before fitting you will note it has a number of small holes. It is also apparent when you whip off the old seals.
Originally I thought these holes were to allow air out as the seal compresses on closing door. But some are for T clips and correspond with small holes in the door. Especially along the front of the door where it shuts against the A pillar.
Originally I thought these holes were to allow air out as the seal compresses on closing door. But some are for T clips and correspond with small holes in the door. Especially along the front of the door where it shuts against the A pillar.
MaxStu
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
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Re: Fitting door seals.
Jonnyb416 wrote: ↑20 Mar 2022, 08:15Piratepete wrote:Hi Jonnyb
My boot now only closes on the first latch. Hoping over time the seal compresses a little.
I've now fitted this seal but with a soft tubular joiner. Tailgate closes nicely on both latches. Suggest you experiment removing the hard joiner on yours.
Front Doors. I've decided to get the T clips. There are in fact 4 required, 3 along the front of the door and one along the back edge.
Thanks for your advice.
Pete
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Re: Fitting door seals.
Piratepete wrote:Glad you’re nearly sorted. Perhaps post something/pictures when you fit the clips. Could help others.Jonnyb416 wrote: ↑20 Mar 2022, 08:15Piratepete wrote:Hi Jonnyb
My boot now only closes on the first latch. Hoping over time the seal compresses a little.
I've now fitted this seal but with a soft tubular joiner. Tailgate closes nicely on both latches. Suggest you experiment removing the hard joiner on yours.
Front Doors. I've decided to get the T clips. There are in fact 4 required, 3 along the front of the door and one along the back edge.
Thanks for your advice.
Pete
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I tried removing the connecting stub as I thought that could well work. But it didn’t Cheers anyway, good idea.
Cheers, Jon.
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Re: Fitting door seals.
Cab door seals are best fitted and then left for months to compress. They do improve greatly with time. Tailgate much the same, I now need to adjust the latch to get the door flush.
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