Removing/refitting fuel pump on jx

[Bryce]

Its actually silver, who knew!

Once it's back on will it need primed or is it just a case of cracking injectors and turning it over until I see diesel?

Cheers

[colinthefox]

Once it's back on will it need primed or is it just a case of cracking injectors and turning it over until I see diesel?

I  think these pumps are supposed to be self-priming, but it will start pumping a lot quicker if you can prime it first. You will most likely need to crack off the injectors though.
 

[davidoft1]

they arent self priming, also they are lubricated by fuel so youre much better off manually priming it to ensure it doesnt run dry and damage the internals

[Bryce]

they arent self priming, also they are lubricated by fuel so youre much better off manually priming it to ensure it doesnt run dry and damage the internals

How do you go about manually priming it? I assume there would still a bit of lubrication from being on the test bench?

I've got a fuel bulb that I'm going to use to prime the fuel filter I just changed if that's any good?

[davidoft1]

they arent self priming, also they are lubricated by fuel so youre much better off manually priming it to ensure it doesnt run dry and damage the internals

How do you go about manually priming it? I assume there would still a bit of lubrication from being on the test bench?

I've got a fuel bulb that I'm going to use to prime the fuel filter I just changed if that's any good?

yes that will do, prime the pump too and pump the bulb whilst turning it over, i would leave the injector pipes off until fuel comes out of the outlets on the pump 
 

[Bryce]

Back with another quick question. I have refitted the injectors with new flame traps and torqued them to spec however they are no longer paralel to each other as they were before.

Is this a problem?

Big day tomorrow setting injection timing and refitting belt here's hoping I don't blow up the engine!

[Timburrows]

Always turn the engine over with a spanner first,2 complete revaluations after timing it up BEFOREtrying to start it,and injectors don’t line up,doesn’t matter
 

[Bryce]

OK so got a bit delayed and I'm trying to fit the timing belt.

Problem is it's very tight and every time I manage to get it on it has turned the crank and put it out its timing.

Is there a way to lock the crank as well? The new belt is from bw so I know it's the right one. I've made sure the new tensioner is at its slackest but it's still too tight to fit if I leave the last bit to go over crank. Any tips?

[Bryce]

Just incase anyone comes across the same problem in future I managed by slackening the tensioner as far as it would go so could slide backwards and forwards.

Also put the van in 4th not sure how I didnt think of this part before.

Done two full rotations and I didn't hear or feel anything hitting so I'm assuming all good and on to the pump timing!

[Timburrows]

There is a tool for locking the bottom sprocket,I tend to fit the belt to the pump,then lightly clamp it with a small pair of grips,then get it around the crank,then the tensioner,then the cam sprocket with it very loose,tighten the cam bolt lightly until you can just move the sprocket on the cam then tighten the tensioner,check everything is aligned then tighten the sprocket bolt on the cam,check again,turn 2 complete turns,check again,slacken injector pipes,check stop solinoid is clicking when ign is turned on,and crank the engine,25 seconds should see diesel coming out by the injectors,tighten 3 pipes up then try starting,when it starts tighten the forth pipe,hope it goes well

[Bryce]

So my next obstacle is that I can't fit the dial gauge into the pump.

The vince Walden guide mentions you may have to remove the vacuum pump but I'm assuming this has to do with braking and I don't really want to mess with that at this stage.

It also seems to be more the coolant pipework that seems to be in the way as well as the metal pipe running from/to the oil filter so would be be better to just remove these? Also Not sure if my dial indicator is just too big?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm slowly getting there!

[Timburrows]

There is an adapter that screws into the pump and a small extension rod that screws onto the dial and the dial locates into the adapter with a small kneeled screw,I don’t remember removing any water pipes or vacuum pump to do the timing,vacuum pump is held in place by a m8 bolt,just undo and lift out being careful not to break the plastic fitting off the flat plate,they are available from Brickwerks if you do

[Timburrows]

Look on YouTube it’s a lot more clear and probably better explained

[Bryce]

Cheers, I've got the adaptor and the rod that screws into it but I can't seem to get it screwed onto the pump. It either hits the metal oil pipe or the coolant hose is in the way it just seems too long!

I've had a good Google but I seem to only find videos where the engine is out and so has easy access. Looked for a smaller diameter Dial gauge as well but no luck there in my price range. I've got a new guage on order as I only had 10mm on mine anyway so see if that makes any difference.

If I was to remove the vacuum pump is that to do with the brakes and so would have bleed brakes etc after?

[Bryce]

From further reading the vacuum pump seems to be for oil and the gasket should be replaced if taken out?