Removing/refitting fuel pump on jx

[Bryce]

So the time has come to get my fuel pump refurbed. I've never done anything like this before but have been given some good guides to follow and a few service manuals.

Was wondering if anyone has any good hints or tips to make the job easier/ anything I need to watch out for?

Since I have no history on the glow plugs or timing belt I thought I might as well change them while I'm there and get the injectors tested. Also got a replacement fuel filter to go on.

I know this will fill noone with confidence but my first question is do I have to drain the fuel tank to do all this?

[Timburrows]

Be careful not to loose the small moon key when you remove the front sprocket off the pump,cleanliness is very important and take a picture before you start for reference and the banjo pipe bolts and different,the outlet has a restrictor in it
 

[colinthefox]

Was wondering if anyone has any good hints or tips to make the job easier/ anything I need to watch out for?

My top tip..........set everything at TDC no.1 cylinder firing before taking anything off, and don't move anything before you refit. Mark positions of cam, crank and pump pulleys with Tippex against similar marks on the engine in case you move anything. Take photos. Saves a load of time when refitting.

Do I have to drain the fuel tank to do all this?

No, but cover the ends of the fuel lines to stop dirt getting in.

[Bryce]

OK I'm completely out my depth here but I've got to learn somehow.

Couple of questions that are probably really stupid but I can't seem to find any answers in the service manuals/google.

First one of the studs came out when taking off cover I assume it's no biggie when it comes to putting in back on?

I've got a feeling this is an especially stupid question but setting the engine to tdc I assumed would involve turning the crankshaft by hand. I also thought that by the power of elimination it would be the bolt that isn't the cam or pump leaving

But this is not a toothed pulley and is labeled as intermediate shaft gear.

So can I just turn the cam to find tdc? All the service manuals specifically say rotate the crank.

Finally looks like to replace the belt I will have to remove the bottom cover which also means taking off the two aux pulleys?

Thanks for the help

[colinthefox]

First one of the studs came out when taking off cover I assume it's no biggie when it comes to putting in back on?

Setting the engine to tdc I assumed would involve turning the crankshaft by hand. I also thought that by the power of elimination it would be the bolt that isn't the cam or pump but this is not a toothed pulley and is labeled as intermediate shaft gear.

So can I just turn the cam to find tdc? All the service manuals specifically say rotate the crank.

To replace the belt I will have to remove the bottom cover which also means taking off the two aux pulleys?

Don't worry about the stud. Best put a bit of loctite threadlocker on the threads when you put it back in to stop the same happening next time.

Set tdc by turning the crank which is the one right at the bottom with the v belt pulley on it. Turn the large nut with a spanner. The intermediate shaft pulley (which is run off the back of the toothed belt) just turns a shaft which does nothing more than run the oil pump at the other end of the engine.

No, you mustn't find tdc by turning the cam. You risk breaking the cam or the toothed belt. Use the big nut in the centre of the vee belt pulley. The tdc mark is on the clutch inside the bellhousing behind the large plastic bung. When using this mark, remember that the crank makes two rotations for every one of the pump and cam. Make sure you have tdc with number one firing. Thats when the slot in the cam is horizontal and at the bottom against the cylinder head, and when the hole in the pump pulley lines up with a hole in the body.

Yes, to change the toothed belt you will have to remove the vee belts and the big fat pulley on the crank. this is done by taking out the four Allen headed bolts NOT the big nut in the centre. Those 4 bolts will be TIGHT. Get a decent set of hex bits for your socket set, clean out the recess, and make sure the bit is FULLY engaged in the head and put the van in 4th gear. They are a bitch to shift if you round off the recess in the bolt head! Then you can take off the bottom cover. When you put the bolts back, make very sure you've torqued them up correctly, ie x torque plus n degrees. Tip... Slacken the bolts slightly first, THEN select neutral! THEN set tdc, THEN remove the bolts. You may have to wiggle the pulley to get it off the crank. Patience!

Two more handy tips..........

To remove the water pump pulley slacken the allen headed bolts by using a second allen key in another bolt head, and prevent the pulley rotating using a metal bar between the two allen keys. [E D I T] Just noticed you have hex bolts instead of Allen heads, so you'll have to find your own similar method![/E D I T]

If there's not enough room between the crank pulley and the silencer I normally turn the Hex bit designed for the socket set with a 10mm ring spanner.

Best of luck!

 

[Bryce]

Thanks for detailed reply it's helped a lot!

When the diesel place said I had to remove the pump myself I Stupidly thought it would be a case of just unbolting it and handing it over

May leave changing the belt for another day if that's the case I'm in deep enough as it is for now!

Thanks again

Just realised will have to remove the belt anyway so looks like the pulleys will be coming off as well. At least I have the new belt and tensioner ready to go

[Bryce]

So just got round to loosening the hex bolts on the pulley and it looks like someone has kindly rounded them off for me..

Two came loose fine but the other two are totally rounded off.

Any handy tips for getting them out? Guessing I will have to try and drop exhaust to hammer in torx bit?

[Oldiebut goodie]

Looks like you have a mix of hex and star headed bolts there.

[colinthefox]

Hmm. That's a right old mess. I can't remember how I did mine when one got rounded off, but I've heard of others hammering in a Torx bit.
Just as well to find the problems now I suppose.

[Bryce]

Rain has stopped play but will try a star bit tomorrow. Reckon I will have rounded it trying to wedge in hex bit

Got one off with a pair of mole grips and skinned thumb knuckle. Had a look at the exhaust and really don't want to open that rusted bolt can of worms!

[Cecil]

These type of extractors work well apparently if other methods don’t.

[Bryce]

So removed bolts with bolt extractors, put the cam lock in measured the gap and put feelers either side and locked pump.
The flywheel looks a tiny bit out
Will this cause problems? Annoys me as I paid a garage a few hundred to give it a once over and check all the timings which they said were spot on...

[colinthefox]

So removed bolts with bolt extractors, put the cam lock in measured the gap and put feelers either side and locked pump.
The flywheel looks a tiny bit out
Will this cause problems? Annoys me as I paid a garage a few hundred to give it a once over and check all the timings which they said were spot on...

That reminds me how I got the bolt out! Using a stud extractor.

The clearances between valves and pistons are pretty tight, so any error might produce witness marks on the piston tops. It's obviously not bending valves, but best get it spot on. Following the correct cam belt change procedure will sort it out. Nothing like doing it yourself for knowing it's correct.


 

[Bryce]

One job always seems to lead to another on these vans.
Quick question, when re fitting the injector pipes did you just do by feel or use one of those crows foot spanners? It says needs to be 25nm but to just use a spanner?
Thanks for all the help

[colinthefox]

When re fitting the injector pipes did you just do by feel or use one of those crows foot spanners? It says needs to be 25nm but to just use a spanner?
Thanks for all the help

I just use a spanner. If they leak then tweak them a bit more.

Make sure the injector pipe clips are refitted. They don't look that important, but they are. Very.