Offer of used engine 1.6D

[tommin]

Regarding the clutch, I will change over both the flywheel and clutch from my original engine, thanks for that advice ObG.

[Oldiebut goodie]

The nose taper of the crankshaft was different between the two engines so check that your old twin pulley will fit on the new engines crankshaft if you want to keep the two belt system.

[tommin]

Is there a need to change to the two pulley system or can I run it as it is?

[Oldiebut goodie]

I have always run the long single belt on my engines, some people seem to prefer the two belt setup though. Just go with whichever one fits easiest. I don't like the two belt as sometimes you need to remove the front belt if the rear one gives up the ghost. I find that a pain as my boat engine is the same in that you have to remove an external water pump to change the belt so I try to keep things simple. The only negative with the long belt is that there is extra bounce of the belt that I have noticed on the longest length. It certainly makes for easier adjustment rather than the adjusting with shims that is needed with the two belt system.
I am not sure if there is a degree of multiplication of the speed of rotation of the alternator when the two belt system is used. Maybe someone in the know can enlighten us!

[tommin]

ObG you are a wealth of knowledge, which truly on my behalf is appreciated, thank you.

[dave friday]

Don't forget to fit a spigot bearing [in the flywheel end of the crankshaft]!!

[tommin]

Funny you should say that, I just found out there was not one whilst changing over the fly wheel and clutch thanks for the heads up though Now to source one

[tommin]

Okay that is the spigot bearing ordered, darn post cost more than the item......

Now some advice or guidance needed. If you look at the two pictures below, you will notice the coolant flanges entering the block differ. The original engine has only the one electrical connector (sensor) on the side flange and two electrical sensors on the engine front flange, and these are metal. Whereas on the donor engine, the side flange has two electrical connectors, Inside which are two spades in each connector. The engine front flange has none, and these are some sort of plastic.

I would like any ideas on the best way to connect to the original van wiring?

[dave friday]

Use a test meter,you should get a reading [switched to ohms] of 1000ohms ish for the water temp gauge,the other one [if you get a reading]is for the glowplug system.

[tommin]

Not so sure about the glow plug system? it has it's own power supply spade on the first (4) plug in picture but will take a closer look with a test meter tomorrow, thanks

[Oldiebut goodie]

I think that on your original engine you have 3 connectors, 1 for the temp guage sensor, 1 for the glow plug sensor and the other for the run on sensor for the water pump as used for the turbo models. The 3rd one not being needed as you aren't using the turbo. As to which is which I can't help as they are so easy to move around as the wiring tends to be able to reach each sensor! There must be a list of the values somewhere. It is no good me looking at mine as they are different sensors due to a different flange being used.
Found the glow plug sensor values:

[Oldiebut goodie]

Why don't you just swap your flanges over - saves thinking about anything else then?

[tommin]

Yeah you are right ObG, will swap them over. I at first did not want to mess with them seeing as they are old, might break or not sit right once swapped over, but bow to the pearls of wisdom once again

[tommin]

Well another productive day yesterday, changed over those water connections, renewed all electrical connectors, swapped a duff glow plug, changed over the sump oil duct and sump base. Waiting now on the spigot bearing and I think will soon be ready to be refitted, now that will be a task in itself

[tommin]

Whilst I am waiting the spigot bearing, I decided to dismantle the turbo from the old engine, and what a freakin mess it is in. Thick oil and soot throughout, am not even going to bother with it any further, just happy decided not to Frankenstein it to the donor engine.
A worthy note to all, check and recheck that engine block to ensure it is in fact a td block not a d one. This one caught me out, ran really well when I first bought it, now I realise why the problems I was getting just kept on escalating, first the pump leak from one seal, then another leak from another seal, to the sudden wallowing smoke issues I have posted. It all looked like a true TD, air filter pump and lda, turbo and oil cooler, it all just seemed normal, you live and learn I guess.
A last note, even you may read like i did, it is okay to run a turbo without the oil squirters, well I think the above blew that myth