CovKid wrote:Easiest solution I found to correct fill is to have long pipe pushed on to funnel and fill from engine bay. Needs two people or something to catch oil if you overfill but at least it will be right then.
That's what I did on the two occasions I have done the job, I also warmed the oil up in very hot water to make it runnier.
If you look again, theres a picture at the bottom with funnel and long pipe - held via the air vent. Same principle.
Another cause of whining/whirring noise (though not in this instance) is alternator bearings. Just added in case someone encounters this thread in the years ahead.
Jayjaysee wrote:I read on the wiki that draining and filling was easier with the front raised. Draining maybe, filling? nope
Thanks again
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Yeah. I did see that but went in favour of going in underneath and using a posh pump, bottle and tube.
I'm now in b and q buying cheap hose!
Live and learn (sigh)
Westfalia Joker 2.0 Aircooled called Whinne (the Pooh)
Jayjaysee wrote:OK. Lesson number 2. RTFM The air cooled 2 litre with a manual gearbox only takes 3.5 litres of oil. According to Haynes anyway
Ah, so that must have been a "Doh" moment . My 86 water-cooled van has an air-cooled (DK) box fitted (for some reason I do not know, came like that to me 10+ years ago) and when I changed my oil I just did the drain, then fill till it dribbles out the filler plug hole method. I didn't measure how much went in.
Jayjaysee wrote:I think that the oil leak is CV joints though on closer inspection. Joy
The CV joints don't have oil in them, they have thick grease. If there is oil showing near the inner CV joint it might be the output shaft(s) seal on the gearbox.
How much oil came out when you drained it ?
What condition did it (and the drain plug magnet) look like ?
Your drain plug magnet head says fair wear (though we don't know when oil last changed so don't know over how long a period - if that is six months wear then box is close to stuffed, if it's 100k miles then it's not that bad) and the sludgy stem is generally a worn pinion and or mainshaft bearing, sludgier the stem more worn the bearings generally
worn pinion bearing gives whiney diff generally worse on load, it's not the diff bearings usually just the relationship between crown and pinion and worn bearing allows shaft to move back and fro; if you have had any episodes of going in reverse and feeling like it won't move or it bangs going in that's the shaft moving backwards and confirms worn pinion bearing
If it's real noisy then chances are pinion head is actually pitted and crown and pinion may need replacement when it get's rebuilt
I wouldn't even drain on ramps. You just need to jack and support the vehicle enough so you can slide under and undo the plugs but (ideally) lower when draining and filling. Granted that creates problems in terms of access but thats where the funnel/hose, a steady hand and a watchful eye works best. The level is then correct. You just have to add small amounts when you suspect its getting full.
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I don't think that it had had a gearbox oil change for a good while. I'm going to have to get to the bottom of that leak. That should tell me where to check too.
In reflection the noise increases in note with road speed
There's no banging but occasionally it jumps out of 1st
Westfalia Joker 2.0 Aircooled called Whinne (the Pooh)
Here's a shot of the drain plug
