Replacement drum brakes for dummies

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biker1981
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Replacement drum brakes for dummies

Post by biker1981 »

Hi just after some advice,

I recently drove approx 50 miles with the handbrake on a bit doh.... The brakes were not existent for a bit and the drum hit. Left it to cool and there ok.

Anyways I think one of tHe handbrake cables to the back left wheel isn't connected as seen a cable kicking around.

So I'm gonna take a look at all the drum brakes. Just I've never done them before. Couple of questions

I want to get all the stuff ready I'm gonna buy new brake shoes, do I need a fitting kit to?
Is it hard to do ?
Should I buy a new handbrake cable .... Is it likely the cable has snapped. I'm thinking of paying to hire a ramp. Can do this locally so would rather get the stuff all ready

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123-jn
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Re: Replacement drum brakes for dummies

Post by 123-jn »

I reckon unless you are lucky you will need new wheel cylinders and a handbrake cable but there are more than one part to this cable. The shoes may be ok? its worth checking before you buy some. Drums again may be ok but again it is worth a check. The adjusters will need cleaning up usually as will the backplates and maybe a coat of fresh black heat resist paint for the back plates. Check the wheel cylinders for leaks you may need to peel back the rubber dust covers to check. If the cylinder has been leaking the shoes will likely be contaminated and will need replacing. The shoes will need the lining thickness checking and the minimum is given in haynes as 2.5mm. The drums should be nice and smooth and not oval you would have noticed a vibration under braking if this were the case. 10 inches is the max internal diameter. A fitting kit may be a good idea but have a look at the old clips first , they may be ok. The handbrake cable has a central one from the lever then two secondaries so if its a rear one you will just need one side unless you fancy doing both while you are at it. You dont need a ramp just a jack and an axle stand.
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Re: Replacement drum brakes for dummies

Post by Hacksawbob »

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Br ... _servicing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

can be awkward if your drums are lipped and dont want to come off, getting all the bits back on the right way, damaging brake line if it's coroded and needs replacing can be a show stopper if you dont have the right tools. That said it's do-able. photograph everything before you take it off.
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Re: Replacement drum brakes for dummies

Post by CovKid »

Tip from someone who must have done this job 1000 times, have new wheel cylinders and shoes ready. I have yet to take apart rear drums where cylinders didn't need replacing. It'll be sods law that you'll have them apart and will then have to go looking for new ones....

And if they've had no attention in years you may well find copper brake pipe to cylinder is corroded and won't undo - then you're into replacing those. Unfortunately you often have to go back until you reach something that will actually come off or undo. Not a hard job, just unpredictable.

Oh, and spray plenty of plusgas (not WD40) around where pipe fits into wheel cylinder on back of brake plate - at least a week before you start - you'll be glad you did....
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Re: Replacement drum brakes for dummies

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

50 miles with the handbrake on - good chance you have warped the drum unless you are very lucky. Been there and done that!
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douglas
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Re: Replacement drum brakes for dummies

Post by douglas »

Hacksawbob wrote:https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Br ... _servicing

can be awkward if your drums are lipped and dont want to come off, getting all the bits back on the right way, damaging brake line if it's coroded and needs replacing can be a show stopper if you dont have the right tools. That said it's do-able. photograph everything before you take it off.

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Re: Replacement drum brakes for dummies

Post by mrhutch »

THIS >>
Hacksawbob wrote: photograph everything before you take it off.


AND THIS >>
CovKid wrote:Tip from someone who must have done this job 1000 times, have new wheel cylinders and shoes ready. I have yet to take apart rear drums where cylinders didn't need replacing. It'll be sods law that you'll have them apart and will then have to go looking for new ones....

And if they've had no attention in years you may well find copper brake pipe to cylinder is corroded and won't undo - then you're into replacing those. Unfortunately you often have to go back until you reach something that will actually come off or undo. Not a hard job, just unpredictable.

Oh, and spray plenty of plusgas (not WD40) around where pipe fits into wheel cylinder on back of brake plate - at least a week before you start - you'll be glad you did....
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Re: Replacement drum brakes for dummies

Post by what2do »

And no, it is not advisable to "idiot" the drum with a lump hammer if you meet resistance. Lots and lots of gentle tapping will be the rule of the day. When you come to think of it, there's lots of not so obvious tips when it comes to dismantling drum brakes. My adjusters were solid which makes for a 'fun job', retaining pins and circular clips were rotten, amazed that something had dislodged catastrophically.

Also, also, also, only attempt one side at a time. When it comes to rebuilding, you can copy (in reverse) the other side.
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?

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Re: Replacement drum brakes for dummies

Post by what2do »

Jesus, I knew there was a difference in time zones between us and North America but this is just crazy......

So how do we think the OP progressed?
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?

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Re: Replacement drum brakes for dummies

Post by mrhutch »

what2d wrote:And no, it is not advisable to "useless personage" the drum with a lump hammer if you meet resistance. Lots and lots of gentle tapping will be the rule of the day. When you come to think of it, there's lots of not so obvious tips when it comes to dismantling drum brakes. My adjusters were solid which makes for a 'fun job', retaining pins and circular clips were rotten, amazed that something had dislodged catastrophically.

Also, also, also, only attempt one side at a time. When it comes to rebuilding, you can copy (in reverse) the other side.
AND THAT ^^ :)

Completely agree with removing "lipped" drums, rubber mallet or broom handle end and gentle taps round the lip..


E D I T - just noticed the date of the OP!!!! :rofl
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what2do
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Re: Replacement drum brakes for dummies

Post by what2do »

Whilst we're all on here dispensing with wisdom, can someone tell me why the holes in the backplate are no where near the star wheel on the adjuster?? I had trim my proper adjusting lever but even then, I had to position it at such an awful angle to be able to rotate the wheel - proxy thing. Next time I'd just undo the shock and pull out the spring to give a more improved angle, still far from perfect.
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?

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Re: Replacement drum brakes for dummies

Post by tobydog »

After 50 miles with the handbrake on I'd check the wheel bearing grease, it may be a bit cooked.
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what2do
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Re: Replacement drum brakes for dummies

Post by what2do »

I'm not convinced the handbrake could've been pulled on that hard, the few measly ponies propelling the van would have made their disapproval obvious!
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?

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Re: Replacement drum brakes for dummies

Post by kevtherev »

...hope he fixed the handbrake warning lamp!
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Re: Replacement drum brakes for dummies

Post by what2do »

kevtherev wrote:...hope he fixed the handbrake warning lamp!
Hah! That totally passed by me, it's the little things!
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?

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