Treating seams

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sternal
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Treating seams

Post by sternal »

Hello one and all Im new to this forum and the world of the T25, always had a classic car to play with over the last few years but took the step and followed my dream to get a camper,so finally took the plunge !

Have spent the day treating the rust on the seams with Vactan (great stuff) so tomorrow is paint day ! (2 days annual leave) whats the order of sequence ?

Vactan

Seam sealant OR primer stuff/hamerite brush on ? then seam sealant ?

I have plenty more questions but will get this rust sorted first ! Will also put some pics up.

Many thanks in advance
1.7 KY diesel ex Deutsche Post van

sternal
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Re: Treating seams

Post by sternal »

1
Last edited by sternal on 13 Jun 2013, 15:47, edited 1 time in total.
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edoh
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Re: Treating seams

Post by edoh »

info on seams - half way down -
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Bo ... Glass_Rust" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
:ok
Owner of a red T25 fixed hi top campervan - colour - spikey red - petrol - water cooled - 1.9 dg engine rhd - 1990 g reg n still going strong!-

sternal
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Re: Treating seams

Post by sternal »

cheers , it doesn't say what order, or if it does I cant see it
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edoh
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Re: Treating seams

Post by edoh »

'If there's signs of rust bubbles along the seams, then wire brush to clean initially and then rip out the seam sealer and clean back to where the pitting stops on the panels (maybe 1" away or more) - use specially ground hacksaw blade or screwdriver to chip paint off (3m pad on a drill or shot blaster is better! dremmel can be used with the mini grinder wheel to remove sealant) until you find the extent of surface rust - then RustEncap deep into the seam and surrounds; others prime and use Tigerseal or a good polyurethane seam sealer - it'll come again though, sometime, unless you also attack from behind seams, really cleaning the joins out (twisted knot brush/scraper, remove underseal) and then dry thoroughly (hot air paint stripper on medium) and again, load the whole area up with RustEncap, forcing into gaps in seams.' ?
Owner of a red T25 fixed hi top campervan - colour - spikey red - petrol - water cooled - 1.9 dg engine rhd - 1990 g reg n still going strong!-

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kevtherev
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Re: Treating seams

Post by kevtherev »

Now as the rust is in the seam.
What you do will be undermined in a year or so because it has not been sealed from the inside, and opening the seam is impossible without major surgery
Just so you're aware.
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Re: Treating seams

Post by Plasticman »

aye, you can keep it at bay a while but unless you part the seam you wont get into it, and anything is better than nothing
mm

sternal
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Re: Treating seams

Post by sternal »

before



after



it wont win any prizes for good looks but it will keep the rust away for a few months or so I used all the correct products in the correct order !
Last edited by sternal on 13 Jun 2013, 15:48, edited 1 time in total.
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kevtherev
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Re: Treating seams

Post by kevtherev »

If thats original paint...your van colour code is VW L90D in case you wondered
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sternal
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Re: Treating seams

Post by sternal »

cheers I did wonder !
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CovKid
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Re: Treating seams

Post by CovKid »

As said, its nigh on impossible to stop the rust permanently - once its started. You can only slow it down. I have a complete rear arch to replace and will be using modern panel adhesive with only a couple of puddle welds to affix new panel in place - different approach. Inside of seams is in some cases impossible/impractical to get at. You just do what you can. Grit blasting is a possibility (certainly outside it can work well with one of those ALDI spot blasters) but access is the issue.
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Re: Treating seams

Post by Plasticman »

come on ! which bit of the rear arch is inaccesible, doing just the arch is easy as can be
mm

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Re: Treating seams

Post by CovKid »

Not rear arch specifically, but in general. Some of them are a pig to get at. :D

Arches are actually really easy but once you start going higher, its often impractical. No offence taken :wink:
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