Some questions about the dreaded heater blower swap

[discipleofsketch]

OK, before i'd start i'd just like to thank the members on this forum who have detailed the process of getting the dash off and heater blower swapped out. The photos are particularly useful. For future searchers here are some useful links i've found:-

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Co ... ater_box_2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... s#p7575369" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'm going to have to tackle this job sooner or later, my squeaky blower motor seized at the weekend blowing a fuse and taking the wipers with it - (thanks CovKid for the tips on splitting these onto different fuses!), and it only worked on full speed anyway, so I need to replace the resistor too. I'm planning on ordering one of these: http://www.justkampers.com/shop/2518190 ... 17026.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

These are the things i'm confused about :-

1. Is it strictly necessary to detach the heater box from the bulkhead (which sounds like it can be a pig due to seized bolts), or can I just take the top off the heater box to swap out the motor for a new one? I'm not quite sure from the pictures here?

2. Even if I do have to detach it, can I still do this job without disconnecting any coolant hoses?

3. Are the sealed (as opposed to clipped) boxes usually on earlier models - i.e. without consulting the club 80-90 crystal ball*, would it be safe to presume my 1983 van will have a sealed unit?

Thanks in advance for any answers!

* yeah, I can work out what my mystery switch and LED are for when i'm in there

[fairwynds]

Hi
this is a job I did last year, for the same reason. Agreed, the WIKI was (as always) a great resource.
My tips:-
1) the Febi replacement looks fine (I got mine from GSF) - no doubt someone will be along shortly to list all the other vehicles these blowers fit and suggest you go to a breakers, but imho, you only want to be doing this job the once!
2) There are a couple of heavy duty screws that usually cause the seizure problems, and they are accessed from inside the vehicle onece the dash is removed (the other two are usually ok) - an 'impact driver' helped alot. The seized oned, I drilled out, and replaced with nuts and bolts, accessing from behind the 'fly screen' which sits behind the headlamp grille (while your at it, replace those little screws too!)
3) It is easiest to separate the two halves of the plastic box that contains the blower unit when it is on the workbench. I ended up using a sharp chisel to prise it CAREFULLY apart!
4) When you rebuild the plastic 'box' you can use sealant and/or do as I did and drill small holes to take small self tapping screws and washers all the way around.
5) In order to use my van after I had also removed the heater matrix, I used a couple of brass 'U' bends my plumber friend made up for this purpose to connect up the matrix pipes. This way the cooling system was fine to use, but I just didnt have a heater for a while (granted I didnt do mine in winter!)
If you want I could post the 'U' bends to you to borrow, for the postage there and back?
I also took loads of pictures so if you have any other questions, feel free to ask....
Good luck
Jonathan

[MidLifeCrisis]

1. Is it strictly necessary to detach the heater box from the bulkhead (which sounds like it can be a pig due to seized bolts), or can I just take the top off the heater box to swap out the motor for a new one? I'm not quite sure from the pictures here?

2. Even if I do have to detach it, can I still do this job without disconnecting any coolant hoses?

3. Are the sealed (as opposed to clipped) boxes usually on earlier models - i.e. without consulting the club 80-90 crystal ball*, would it be safe to presume my 1983 van will have a sealed unit?

Thanks in advance for any answers!

* yeah, I can work out what my mystery switch and LED are for when i'm in there

1) I think that you don't have to detach the heater box but it'll be a lot simpler if you do - everything is incredibly tight around there and I can't imagine it'll be made any easier by leaving it in place; Also, if it is 'clipped' shut then there'll be at least two of the clips at the back of the heater box (or rather, there should be two clips round the back) which'll be a real pig to get to, especially if you haven't done it before and don't know where they are. If it's a sealed unit then I guess it might be possible to 'force' it open in place. But I'd go with being brave and trying to get the bolts off (you'll need various extensions to get to them) - I snapped one off but the rest eventually relented.

2) Once the heater box is open (either in place or released and 'hanging') then the heater matrix thingy can be removed from the heater box without disconnecting the coolant hoses. This can then be left in the van and the heater box can be removed.

3) My vans an early one and it had the clips on the heater box - but your experience may vary. If you do have the clips, be warned that when you pry them off, they will spring off with force and fly all over the van so beware and try not to lose too many!!

Its certainly a non-fun job and I'd allow at least a day or so, that way you'll have plenty of time to go inside, drink coffee, swear quietly and put plasters on your scuffed fingers .....

On the plus side, make sure you do any and all jobs that are better achieved while the dash is out - tidy up wiring, clean the earth crown do-dads, fit headlight relays, trace mystery switch etc cos there will never be a better time than when you have that huge dash piece out ....

Good luck .... !! It's fun to see how stripped down the van looks with all it's 'dash guts' hanging out!!

[discipleofsketch]

Hi
this is a job I did last year, for the same reason. Agreed, the WIKI was (as always) a great resource.
My tips:-
1) the Febi replacement looks fine (I got mine from GSF) - no doubt someone will be along shortly to list all the other vehicles these blowers fit and suggest you go to a breakers, but imho, you only want to be doing this job the once!
2) There are a couple of heavy duty screws that usually cause the seizure problems, and they are accessed from inside the vehicle onece the dash is removed (the other two are usually ok) - an 'impact driver' helped alot. The seized oned, I drilled out, and replaced with nuts and bolts, accessing from behind the 'fly screen' which sits behind the headlamp grille (while your at it, replace those little screws too!)
3) It is easiest to separate the two halves of the plastic box that contains the blower unit when it is on the workbench. I ended up using a sharp chisel to prise it CAREFULLY apart!
4) When you rebuild the plastic 'box' you can use sealant and/or do as I did and drill small holes to take small self tapping screws and washers all the way around.
5) In order to use my van after I had also removed the heater matrix, I used a couple of brass 'U' bends my plumber friend made up for this purpose to connect up the matrix pipes. This way the cooling system was fine to use, but I just didnt have a heater for a while (granted I didnt do mine in winter!)
If you want I could post the 'U' bends to you to borrow, for the postage there and back?
I also took loads of pictures so if you have any other questions, feel free to ask....
Good luck
Jonathan

Thanks, that's useful - and thanks for the offer of the u-bends - if/when I tackle this i'll take it off the road (hoping to borrow a corner of a friend's warehouse) for as long as it takes - if I get stuck and need to move the van i'll take you up on your offer!

[PetenAli]

Here's my thread from doing this in August https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=106887" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Should answer many of your questions.

Lots of helpful info from others who have done it as well - all part of the T25 thing!!

[Reimotim]

I found petenali's advice very helpful.

No need to disconnect heater matrix.
Worth ordering some spare clips before you start. (Part number is on the wiki).
And as others have said resign yourself to a good days work, several cups of tea and a few intense moments of irritation.

Having said that, while not being a fun job, it is not too technical.

Good luck!

[Niander]

This is a job i also need to do and im also dreading it!
so lets have a read...

[CovKid]

No dread involved. You just plod. If you try to aim to finish it quickly or all in one day you''l be under pressure and probably break/omit something. Its actually a very straightforward job although ignore Haynes saying you need to remove steering column. Most you'll need to do is remove steering wheel, driving seat and lay column down. Its a great job as it means you get to see/repair stuff you can't normally access. Not a winter job though.....

[discipleofsketch]

although ignore Haynes saying you need to remove steering column. Most you'll need to do is remove steering wheel, driving seat and lay column down.

This is golden advice, was kind of paranoid about removing the steering column

I'm certainly going to have a crack at this in the new year

[PetenAli]

although ignore Haynes saying you need to remove steering column. Most you'll need to do is remove steering wheel, driving seat and lay column down.

This is golden advice, was kind of paranoid about removing the steering column

I'm certainly going to have a crack at this in the new year

That's what I did although I didn't move the driver's seat. I'd echo what has been said about not rushing. I also found that a competent second pair of hands when putting it back together was really helpful. Thanks Hotpod!

[Smcknighty]

For people future reference, if you can't remove the left hand bolts it is possible to get a Dremel in there by removing the ducting and going round the back of the brake servo.. I found this out after buying a drill extension that didn't help and part way through unnecessarily starting to remove the servo.. In theory I'm going to be finishing removing it at lunchtime..!

[nicq]

When I did mine it is a very late van and was bonded heater box. I did not remove the box but prised it open back and both sides the font came undone by lifting very sjowly.