Syncro 4&4 Discussion and Q&A last answered over 2 years ago.
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Epiphone wrote:what about the oil temp and pressure, is drilling/tapping into the head required?
You can get remote adapters & T-pieces, so that you remove (one of) the existing oil pressure switch(s), then put the T, idiot-light switch and gauge sender somewhere a bit more accessible.
AdrianC wrote:All I need do now is shout at Demon Tweeks _again_ to find out What the blithering heck the one I ordered about three weeks ago is. <grumble>
Out of stock, and they didn't know when it'd be back in... <groan>
But they're doing a slightly more expensive alternative - which is in stock - for the same price, and upgrading from post to courier as an apology. That's decent customer service - although it'd have been nice if I hadn't had to chase.
Epiphone wrote:dont those gauges get quite hot from the hot air running through the tunnel or it doesnt matter if they do?
I'd be more concerned that they were WAY out of eyeline, so very difficult to notice any changes in their readings.
On turbo deisels you have a wind tunel panel (petrols don't) you can see it under the panel the clocks are attached to. It let's the panel the clocks are fixed to sit flat or slightly up, unlike the petrol ones that face down. Personally I can't understand why anyone would drill out a dash to fit clocks and I hate the look of those pod things as I think they look cheap and nasty. I can see all my clocks on my van perfectly and of I didn't want them any more for what ever reason I just pop back a new plastic panel in two minutes.
Epiphone wrote:and ive read on here somewhere that sump plugs are not worth it as the oil temp/pressure down there is not accurate?
There's no pressure at all in the sump - and the temp readings there will be very low and very slow to react. Sump plug senders are also very vulnerable to damage - I lost three, when I made that mistake before... Fortunately, none of 'em emptied the contents out...
These do look a bit ghastly to some minds, granted, but you don't have to take your eyes off the road to read them...
If oil pressure drops or temp goes of the scale, you really don't have many seconds to realise it in reality.. Also I always wanted EGT in direct eyeline, especially when mine used to go to 900C ++ on the old setup I had.
But now in somewhat better looking pods, still in eyeline... you'd need a permanent flight engineer between the seats to monitor yours Jed & BA got rid of the 3rd seat many years ago
I'd go for one that reads 100-110 deg C with the needle mid-scale, so when all's well they are all bolt upright (apart from fuel or boost if you have one)
I think my Audi Allroad Tdi had oil temp reading 60-160 deg C, so normal running at 110 was in the middle, along with Volts @ 14 and water at 90 deg C.
1985 Oettinger 3.2 Caravelle RHD syncro twin slider. SA Microbus bumpers, duplex winch system, ARC 7X15 period alloys
Notice my boost gauge is turned so 9 psi is about upright, and behind that EGT is much the same (850C), so easy to notice when creeps past that. Easy to do that when in line of sight.
IMHO, Oil temp probably most important (water temp obviously) followed by oil pressure...
EGT only really important when overfuelling & overboosting, with limited intercooling. But it is an almost direct guide to engine load, and will reflect even a mild cross-wind or incline change immediately. Cracked heads would be a high EGT thing I'd think.
HarryMann wrote:
IMHO, Oil temp probably most important (water temp obviously) followed by oil pressure...
I agree. If an oil cooler is fitted then a stat switch needs to be employed or the oil temp will increase/decrease too much and thats not good for oil.
ian welded a boss on to my sump with an m10x1.0 thread for the oil temp sender. we chose a location that was about the middle of the oil level.
to date i have the max on temp was o route to coney fully loaded with a traler. camping gear old engine ect. (full). was 95C but this is the temp in the sump, i am looking in to relocating the sender in to the oil take of plate fro the oil cooler so i know the temp oil where it is doing something. rather than in the sump either returned from doing something or about to do something. i was talking to glen over the weekend and he has seen his oil temps up to 140c, on his standard 1.6td (jx) very high temps in my opinion.
remmeber that the oil temp has a direct relation to the oil pressure
Diesels do work the oil very hard unless they've got a water-cooled turbo but even then temps are higher than in a petrol. That's why oil changes have to be every 5000 miles or so. It's well cooked by then.
As a slight aside, I read a report on an SAE paper a while back that included the results of fuel temperatures in diesels when the tank gets run low. Because of ever-increasing injector pressures, with only a gallon or two in the tank observed fuel temperatures were as high as 90 degrees C
OK, so warmer fuel atomizes better leading to improved economy through a more complete burn (all part of the warm-up cycle) but 90 degrees C ?!!
Maybe this should be part of the Diesel bashguard/gearbox temperatures argument...
1985 Oettinger 3.2 Caravelle RHD syncro twin slider. SA Microbus bumpers, duplex winch system, ARC 7X15 period alloys
Epiphone wrote:to just jump back in with Water temperature gauges.
The dashboard standard one is showing the temperature from the radiator.
So then installing another sensor nearer the engine, would be beneficial.
On the thermostat housing are 2 sensors, these go to where? can the signal from these be split off to a gauge?
no no no
the wbx water temp reading is from the thermostat housing not the rad temp, but the fan has is switch on the rad.
my engine water temp sender (for the gauge on the dash) is located on the head.
all engines' temp sender for the dash comes from the engine, head in diesels, tstat housing in petrols, radiator fan is controlled by separate thermoswitch(es) in rad
