Converting 009 Distributor back to OEM - DG - advice sought

[StuM]

Hi All,

As some of you may recall, I have a 009 distributor (with points) in my DG-engined van - the previous owner having performed the conversion from the original electronic ignition set-up. He didn't state any reason for this, other than 'you know where you are with points' but he did include all of the bits he'd taken out in a bag. For this reason, I've no idea how it ran before the conversion - what I do know though is that the van currently runs a pretty lumpy idle (engine rocking all over the place and occasional 'surges' in revs - 'hunting') and also has a flat spot at low revs. I've decided to reinstate the original ignition system (thanks in part to the overwhelming support on this forum) and thought that, as there seem to be a few vans out there in this situation, I'd document my progress. I suspect I'll find the usual issues and therefore might find the real reason that the 009 conversion happened..

I started the process today by following the Haynes manual and stripping down the old distributor. Two things became evident, the first of which is definitely an issue:

1. Having removed the vacuum advance, I tested it by sucking through the pipe to see the effect it had on the pullrod. Well, I was able to suck through the tube quite easily (very little resistance) and the rod didn't move. I think that this means the vacuum advance diaphragm is likely perished and that I need to replace it. Circa £40 from Brickwerks. Here's the rather manky looking unit:



2. This one I'm not sure about.. There is a slight up and down movement on the main shaft if you hold the drive boss at the base. Maybe 2mm or so. The boss itself can be 'rocked' as well... but if you hold the shaft at the top and pull up (closing the 2mm gap) the boss sits flush and square. Is this 'normal'? There is no lateral play on the shaft.

A pic tells a thousand words, so here is the drive boss showing the extent of the 'play':



Other than this things, all seems to be ok I think.

Here's a pic of the cleaned up and re-assembled distributor..



Now, knowing that I definitely need the vac advance leaves me in a quandary - namely that I don't know if everything else works... so not sure whether to buy a new vac advance, or buy a complete, known working used distributor. I have the original and a backup ECU, so my plan is to get everything installed, but leave the vac advance disconnected.

3. Will this get me up and running enough to at least proves everything bar the vac advance is working?

Thanks in advance for any comments/suggestions/answers to #2 & #3 above.

I'll keep this thread updated as and when I get a chance to get back in the engine bay.

Cheers,
Stu

[StuM]

Hi All,

Assuming that the play in the dizzy shaft mentioned above is normal, would I be ok to fit it and do the timing without the vac advance being connected/working?

Basically, I want to check as many parts are working so I know the most economical route to go down.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Cheers,
Stu

[Ian Hulley]

You set the timing on a DG with the vacuum advance/retard disconnected anyway. The wobble in the very end of the drive key is normal, play in the shaft itself isn't.

Ian

[StuM]

Perfect, thanks for that Ian

I'll let you know how it goes.

Cheers,
Stu

[Ian Hulley]

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Pe ... 1.9_Timing

[StuM]

Well, I have now mapped all the wiring so know where it goes. I have a couple of questions I'd appreciate some advice on please:

1. The original distributor has a male spade plug near to the hall sender plug socket. Any idea what plugs in here? It's held on by the same screw that holds one of the clips for the cap on.

2. Haynes talks about some crank pulleys having one timing mark, others having just one (a v notch and a u shape one). Mine has neither! Is this unusual on a DG engine? Someone has put two paint blobs on at one point (which I guess are TDC and 5 degrees past TDC) but when attaching my strobe to number one cylinder, I couldn't see these marks at all, although with one of the marks in line with the engine join, the rotor is pointing at number one.

3. What do you use to turn the engine (using the crank pulley bolt)? I couldn't get a socket in there. Is a 30mm spanner the answer?

Thanks for any help that you can offer.

Cheers,
Stu

[BOXY]

Have a quick check and see if you've got the right dizzie. I thought all T25's had a dual vac system with a connection to each side of the vac can?

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/VehicleSpec ... lnmbrs.htm

[StuM]

Hi,

Thanks for that. I think it's right - the early DGs had a single vac pipe.. Brickworks sell the right bit.

Cheers,
Stu

[BOXY]

1. The original distributor has a male spade plug near to the hall sender plug socket. Any idea what plugs in here? It's held on by the same screw that holds one of the clips for the cap on.

Sorry no idea, if the spade isn't insulated from the body it can only be an earth point? Maybe it's for connecting a piece of test equipment?

2. Haynes talks about some crank pulleys having one timing mark, others having just one (a v notch and a u shape one). Mine has neither! Is this unusual on a DG engine? Someone has put two paint blobs on at one point (which I guess are TDC and 5 degrees past TDC) but when attaching my strobe to number one cylinder, I couldn't see these marks at all, although with one of the marks in line with the engine join, the rotor is pointing at number one.

The timing mark on mine is almost on the back edge of the pulley groove. The only way I found it was with the basket off and a really good torch. The mark is so indistinct any other nicks and scratches can hide it.

3. What do you use to turn the engine (using the crank pulley bolt)? I couldn't get a socket in there. Is a 30mm spanner the answer?

If you're parked on the flat you can turn the engine over by putting the van in 4th and pushing it forward.

[StuM]

Thanks BOXY - will have another look.

[StuM]

The timing mark on mine is almost on the back edge of the pulley groove. The only way I found it was with the basket off and a really good torch. The mark is so indistinct any other nicks and scratches can hide it.

Found it! The white paint blobs I found were on the original marks - I was expecting the grooves to be more pronounced!

The only outstanding problem I now have is that in the Haynes wiring diagram, two green wires are shown coming out of the coil - one to the ECU, which is part of the loom from the control unit that I have. The other one is shown (if I read it right) as going to the engine bay junction box.

Can someone confirm for me please the wires that you have connecting to the coil?

Many thanks again,
Stu

[StuM]

The only outstanding problem I now have is that in the Haynes wiring diagram, two green wires are shown coming out of the coil - one to the ECU, which is part of the loom from the control unit that I have. The other one is shown (if I read it right) as going to the engine bay junction box.

Getting the hang of the Haynes wiring diagrams now - I *think* that the 'missing' green one would be a fee to the tachometer if fitted.

[StuM]

Had a go at this yesterday afternoon with mixed success. I'll post up pictures later, but for now just one question. In this photo:



If you look at the distributor cap clip on the left side of the photo, you can see that there is a spade terminal mounted to it (I mentioned this previously). It looks like it has never been used (judging by the rusty spade), but I was looking at a DG engine, albeit a later one, yesterday and that one had yellow wire from the engine bay control box to the spade on the dizzy. BUT... Haynes diagram doesn't show one. It must be an earth, but surely the distributor earths through the engine block when mounted anyway? Any ideas?

Thanks,
Stu

[Ian Hulley]

The only wires to the dizzy are those that go in via the multi-plug on the side. Our's also has an unused spade where the cap retaining clip is fixed on the side.

Ian

[StuM]

The only wires to the dizzy are those that go in via the multi-plug on the side. Our's also has an unused spade where the cap retaining clip is fixed on the side.

Ian

Perfect, thanks for getting back to me, Ian.

Cheers,
Stu