Syncro 4&4 Discussion and Q&A last answered over 2 years ago.
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They look good. Don't like the idea of welding them to my trailing arm. Anyone with a welder, some flat bar and a couple old shock absorbers can make an extender in a jiffy.
Built mine yesterday so they have yet to stand the test of time!
ericos_bob wrote:They look good. Don't like the idea of welding them to my trailing arm. Anyone with a welder, some flat bar and a couple old shock absorbers can make an extender in a jiffy.
Built mine yesterday so they have yet to stand the test of time!
My thoughts exactly can also be done the same for the fronts aswell good to see someone is on my time
By welding to the old shock bush you have compromised the rubber bush by heating it! By adding a second bush into the equation at 90deg to the original so you will get double the movement at the trailing arm. Keep us informed on durability
Can't say I'm mad about the 90 degree arrangement either. A short link like that acting in compression is not good practice IMHO.
An extended damper rod is much better, as long as the materials are well specified and the damper still has sufficient stroke for the wheel travel.
1985 Oettinger 3.2 Caravelle RHD syncro twin slider. SA Microbus bumpers, duplex winch system, ARC 7X15 period alloys
syncropaddy wrote:By welding to the old shock bush you have compromised the rubber bush by heating it! By adding a second bush into the equation at 90deg to the original so you will get double the movement at the trailing arm. Keep us informed on durability
er you press out the old bush from the eye, then weld it, then fit a new bush surely
personally I'm going for welded extension on the trailing arm, thanks Doug for the suitable box section piece
mind with 20mm lift there's little topping out
they don't seem to mind Russel's or Doug's
it will all be done nice and then shot blasted and powder coated
on the new trailing arms from classic parts the bracket is bolted on and that is TUV'd and destruction tested
syncropaddy wrote:By welding to the old shock bush you have compromised the rubber bush by heating it!
Did it ever cross your mind perhaps not everyone makes assumptions others have less common sense than themselves? Yes I did press out the bush before welding the eye!
syncropaddy wrote:By adding a second bush into the equation at 90deg to the original so you will get double the movement at the trailing arm. Keep us informed on durability
Yes the trailing arm should in theory have more movement. I will report back after I clock up some offroad miles. My main concern is extension link shock eye does not line up with the lower shock eye. Would have been better if the shock forces were evenly distributed. OME do not have a longer shock that fits the syncro that I'm aware of or I'd probably have gone that route too
Dai, That's a well thought out design and proven to boot! If this joint causes me any probs I will know what to try next:). By the way do you have measurements of maximum drop down with your extender installed?
ericos_bob wrote: By the way do you have measurements of maximum drop down with your extender installed?
I hooked a tape measure on the roof gutter today and the measurement to the centre of the rear hub with axle stands under the chassis and the rear wheel at full droop is 1710mm. Hope this helps
ericos_bob wrote: By the way do you have measurements of maximum drop down with your extender installed?
I hooked a tape measure on the roof gutter today and the measurement to the centre of the rear hub with axle stands under the chassis and the rear wheel at full droop is 1710mm. Hope this helps