Eber not starting - A Break through!

[Iceworx]

There is a place called PFJones in Trafford Park near me, and they have the ECU but at £288 it's gonna be a none starter!

Will ring Kruger and see if they are any cheaper today.

[Oldiebut goodie]

Check out german ebay for they can be had quite cheap there. "Eberspacher (model no.) Steuergerät."

[Iceworx]

Thanks OG Will keep an eye out on them

Chris

[Iceworx]

a breakthrough!

after some further reading of a previous OG post, i've had it running.!

I bridged the red to yellow wire at the timer end, and it kcked into life.

noticeed i had a very slight diesel leak from the pump so i've used a had the pump off, and used a bit of PTFE on the leaking bit.

However it doesn't seem to want to run now. Fans spin, but not hearing the clicking from the pump.

had pump on bench and if applying the 12v to it, its clicking fine.



1. Is the pump adjustable, and whats the best way to do it?
2. whats the best way to bleed the air from the fuel line?


finally, is my timer goosed if bpassing it with the wire makes it work?

[Oldiebut goodie]

If it will only start with the red and yellow connected together it means that the thermostat is not working - had you got it turned up enough for it to be calling for heat? Is it a mechanical thermostat or a electronic one?
Where was the leak from the pump?
If you have a 10mm nut and a smaller one (8mm I think) the amount of fuel can be adjusted by turning the 10mm nut anticlockwise to increase fueling and vice versa. The only other thing you can do with them is clean the filter that is in t'other end.
To bleed the air out you need to remove the pump connections,get an external 12v source and connect one end of the 12v source to a pump connection (polarity not relevant) and continually touch the other 12v source end to the other terminal on the pump. Think of Pamela Anderson or someone else and you can get a good rhythm going, after many strokes you should have cleared any air.
The only other problem that you may have hit is the brain has 'locked out' due to too many unsuccessful starts - not all d2s had this stupid function which needs a code reader to unlock. Sometimes just removing all power from it will clear it if you are lucky.

[weldore]

"Think of Pamela Anderson or someone else and you can get a good rhythm going, after many strokes you should have cleared any air."

thats made my night

[Iceworx]

If it will only start with the red and yellow connected together it means that the thermostat is not working - had you got it turned up enough for it to be calling for heat? Is it a mechanical thermostat or a electronic one?
Where was the leak from the pump?
If you have a 10mm nut and a smaller one (8mm I think) the amount of fuel can be adjusted by turning the 10mm nut anticlockwise to increase fueling and vice versa. The only other thing you can do with them is clean the filter that is in t'other end.
To bleed the air out you need to remove the pump connections,get an external 12v source and connect one end of the 12v source to a pump connection (polarity not relevant) and continually touch the other 12v source end to the other terminal on the pump. Think of Pamela Anderson or someone else and you can get a good rhythm going, after many strokes you should have cleared any air.
The only other problem that you may have hit is the brain has 'locked out' due to too many unsuccessful starts - not all d2s had this stupid function which needs a code reader to unlock. Sometimes just removing all power from it will clear it if you are lucky.

Thanks buddy! I've bled the pump, and the lines and TFE has sorted the leak out, and it now runs.

The thermo? I dunno, its just the timer control box thingy from the BT van. heat setting was right at the top.

How long should it take to get warm? it was running for about 15 mins, and the air from it was warm, but certainly not hot...

[Oldiebut goodie]

If you have the 10mm nut on the outlet you can try gradually increasing the amount of fuel delivered by turning that nut anti-clockwise - you will know if you are giving it too much as there will be a lot of blue smoke. You should have very little sign of smoke when it's OK. Give it a hard test run for an hour or so to clear the cobwebs out. When you have got the right position put blob of paint/sealant on it so that it doesn't move. You are looking for a temperature of 140/150 at a distance of 300mm from the heater outlet. It can take a while to heat up especially if it is just sucking in ice cold fresh air rather than recirculating the air and increasing the heat of already warmed air.

[Iceworx]

Thanks OG..

Will give it a bash tomorow after work i'll give it a good run.


So with this BT timer, is the thermostat in it? or in the unit its self? or am I missing something?

[Oldiebut goodie]

I think what you have there is a variable heat control and 2 hour timer. The heater will be sensing the air temperature entering the heater with a thermistor rather than an external thermostat. In some situations that is better than a wallmounted thermostat.

[Iceworx]

Ahhhhh right

Now all i need to figure out is why bypassing it allows it to start up

Will continuity check the loom tonight.



Thanks chief, you truly are a fountain of knowledge on these things! It would have gone in the bin a long time ago if it had not been for your help