Eber not starting - A Break through!

[Iceworx]

Eber is on a test bench in the garage, and connected to a battery, freshly charged.
Pump is at correct angle, and have tested is working,

Upon the eber powering up, the LCD Screen lights up, I set the time, and then press the instant heat button.

Click is heard from the eber its self, not the pump. LCD Screen is now backlit.

Few seconds and a smaller click, screen goes back to normal.

No fan movement, no other symbols on the screen.


Voltage is 12.68v at the eber.

Any suggestions?

[Oldiebut goodie]

Have you got the manual for the D2?
Have you got a timer/controller that gives you the fault codes?

possibly faulty glow pin, faulty overheat sensor.E D I T is that voltage when the heater is trying to start or beforehand?

Check List from manual:
What happens when the heater is switched on and ....
Heater does not ignite
1 Blower motor does not run
Check: - Fuse in power harness.
- Power to control unit.
- Power to and from switch.
- Electrical connections.
2 Blower motor runs approximately 20 seconds and then
shuts off
Check: - Ensure voltage at control unit remains
above 10 volts during start up with glow
pin circuit on.
3 Blower motor runs/fuel metering pump starts and then
shuts down after two start up attempts
Check: - Fuel lines and fuel filter.
- Fuel quantity. Pg. 27
- Combustion air or exhaust tube blockage.
4 Blower motor runs/no fuel metering pump
Check: - For electrical pulses at fuel metering
pump.
- If pump is frozen.
- Blocked fuel line.
Heater ignites
1 Shuts down at random
Check: - Fuel metering pump quantity. Pg. 27
- Possible overheat.
- Control unit input voltage.
2 Heater smokes and carbons up
Check: - Exhaust pipe blocked.
- Combustion air intake blocked.
- Exhaust entering combustion air intake
pipe.
- Short cycling, rapid on/off operation.
- Fuel system.
- Fuel metering pump position and quantity.
- Motor rpm.

[Iceworx]

i have the manual, and its an ex BT one, but even when i hold down the button for diagnostics i get nothing.

Voltage is whilst the heater is trying to start. I dont seem to get a drop in it.

fuse looked ok, should it be 20 amps?


I'll take the glow pin out and test it.

is there a way of testing the overheat sensor?

thanks OG

regards

Chris

[Oldiebut goodie]

Resistance values ( the half is ohms - they don't copy from the pdf)

Component AIRTRONIC - 12V AIRTRONIC - 24V
Glow pin 0.42 - 0.7 ½ 1.2 - 2.5 ½
Fuel metering pump 10 ± 0.5 ½ 36 ± 1.8 ½
Operator control unit
set value potentiometer 1750 - 2080 ± 80 ½ 1750 - 2080 ± 80 ½



Switching value
Component AIRTRONIC D2 / D4
Overheating sensor 140°C - 170°C (284°F - 338°F) measured in the control stage “power”and at a clearance of 300 mm from the hot air outlet

[Iceworx]

Thanks, i'll give it a bash after work tomorrow.

determined to get this thing going or its destined for a high speed entry to the bin!

[Oldiebut goodie]

Fuse 10A for 24v and 20A for 12v.

[Iceworx]

Still no further on with this im afriad

Plenty of power to the unit, and im getting the controller lit up, but pressing the Heat button, i hear a faint click from the unit, no clicks from the pump. Few seconds later another click from the unit.

Sound appears to be form the ECU.

No fans turning, also if I hold down the heat button on the controller. how long do i need to hold it before the diagnostics kick in?

[Gandalf]

Ice

Give these a call - Kruger - Eber main dealers in New Milton - they are very helpfull.

01425 619869

[Iceworx]

Can I just ask..

1. When pressing the "Instant Heat" button, how soon after should I expect the fans to kick in?
2. With the EX BT van timer, how long do I need to hold down the button for the diagnostics to appear?


thanks

[Oldiebut goodie]

As far as I know the BT van timers don't have diagnostics.
Do all the resistances match those given?
Is there continuity on the overheat sensor? It is normally closed and opens on overheat.
Have you checked that the glow plug is functioning? Take it out and put 12v across it - if it burns your fingers it's OK.
Are you getting more than 10v at the heater whilst the heater tries to start?

[Iceworx]

I'll double check them all tonight.

The worrying thing is the fans not spinning at all!

Is there a way of getting a diagnostic reading off it? or a way of resetting them all?

[Oldiebut goodie]

This may or may not help.

Query fault memory F1 – F5
Condition:
The heater is switched off.
• Press heat key –> the heater is switched on.
• Press clock key and keep pressed,
then press p key within 2 seconds.
Display is as follows:
AF = current fault
3 digit number = fault code
heat key flashes.
• Press forward key once or several times,
fault memory positions F1 – F5 are displayed.


Cancel the control box lock and simultaneously delete the fault memory
Condition:
An electrical connection exists from terminal 15 (ignition) to
the module timer, 12-pin connector, chamber 10.
• Press heat key
Display is as follows:
the current fault F15 or F50.
• Press button- clock, keep it depressed and then press button p
within 2 seconds.
The module timer is now in the “Query fault memory” program.
• Switch off ignition (terminal 15).
• Simultaneously press button clock and button p, in addition,
switch on the ignition (terminal 15) and wait until the following
appears in the display.
After ignition “ON” the following appears in the display:
Display flashes,
Heater symbol does not flash
• Switch the heater off and on –> the control box is unlocked,
the heater restarts.
After switching the heater off and on and renewed query of
the fault memory, the following appears in the display:
Display flashes,
Heater symbol does not flash


You may be able to read the fault codes with an OBD reader and Eberspacher's EDiTH programme - I have only done it on Webasto Airtop 2000s using Webastos pc-diag programme and a K-line adaptor with varying results.

[..lee..]

If you bought the heater without hearing it running. You may be in the same boat that I was. After following oldiebutgoodie's instructions. I felt the only way forward was to buy a diagnostic timer. £80 ish later I had codes suggesting an overheat sensor. Replaced that even though it tested good, still no good and same fault. Ended up spending a fortune on a new ecu. Cost me not far off the cost of a new heater to get it right. Really hope your's is not the same.
I would never buy a heater again unless I could see it running myself.

Lee.

[Iceworx]

All sensors check out, glow plug is fine, and the motor spins up ok with power to it. Looks like its a dead ECU...

What a pain!

[Gandalf]

All sensors check out, glow plug is fine, and the motor spins up ok with power to it. Looks like its a dead ECU...

What a pain!

Pity yours is an Ex BT Airtronic - I have an ECU I want rid of but its for the older underslung Eber on Westy's.

Like I say in my post above - give Kruger a ring they will have the ECU so will be able to give you a cost (might be a ot of wonga tho').