Front to back rubber small bore coolant pipes

[Cruz]

83 Early 1.9dg petrol

On the van there are two smaller rubber pipes that run from the front to the back. They are clipped to the two plastic feed and return pipes. One of them is weeping where it connects at the engine bay. However that is not my problem that is easily fixed.

My problem is that I have noticed a spherical chunk has been worn out of one. In a past life it looks like the pipe as sagged down and been worn by the driveshaft. So in that position the pipe is thin and is a weak point that will no doubt end up in future coolant loss. Maybe today, maybe next year, maybe never.

What are these pipes for......heater perhaps?
Are these pipes still available or are there any aftermarket solutions?

[Ian Hulley]

They're the heater hoses, ask for 'GP80' hose from a proper hose retailer, tell then what it's for and they should sell you that or an equivalent off the roll. Obviously you'll need to measure the i.d. and the length you want.

Ian.

[Cruz]

Cheers Ian

Hose retailer. Would that include motor factors?

Someone on the birck-yard suggested the hose was 5/8" inner diameter and to cut the worn part off and clip a new piece using a steel tube and clips rather than changing the whole length

If that is the case I was thinking of some stainless pipe as a joining insert

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/STAINLESS-316-tub ... 2a08eadbb1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Anyone changed one of these heater pipes and would know the size of the inner bore?

[Oldiebut goodie]

I wouldn't use stainless - think of the galvanic action. Keep the mixtures of metal simple.

[Cruz]

Isn't stainless all the rage for the van length feed and return rad pipes?

[Oldiebut goodie]

I would prefer to keep the aluminium of my engine intact rather than add stainless.

[Plasticman]

Nice bit of copper pipe to your liking then sir?
mike

[Cruz]

I have looked and the pipe has a connection before it enters the cab so I may as well change that whole length rather than just repair the section

Or am I making unnecessary work for myself?

E D I T: I found the number of the water pipe on etos and when I searched I found this site http://vegwerks.wordpress.com/category/volkswagen/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I know it says diesel but the pipes are the same bore size and they claim they are 5/8"

(15) Heater Hose (Return) From Front – 3530mm – Connects to 3-Way Hose (6)
* ALL 251-265-057 (available but discontinued)
82 DIY: if this isn’t just a $225 (list price 02/2010) length of 5/8” hose, I don’t know what is! Most folks recommend about 30 feet of 5/8 hose to replace the stock heater hoses.

[Oldiebut goodie]

Nice bit of copper pipe to your liking then sir?
mike

Aluminium will be highly anodic to the stainless steel cathode; it is slightly less anodic to the copper.

[Plasticman]

I know it is , but there int a "tongue in cheek" smilie
mike

[Cruz]

Will somewhere like unipart have the General Purpose 80 hose in 5/8" diameter?

I ask because we have one in Preston

[Plasticman]

any of the half decent motor factors should stock it, its pretty standard stuff
mike

[Simon Baxter]

Nice bit of copper pipe to your liking then sir?
mike

Aluminium will be highly anodic to the stainless steel cathode; it is slightly less anodic to the copper.

But does it really matter.

heard lots of "engineers" mention this, yet the septics (you know how they like to go on and on and on and on about every minute detail) sell them and fit them in large numbers as do the Germans.
No metal parts are touching each other, they are insulated at either end by rubber.
Yet to see any evidence, or proof that using stainless in a cooling system is such a bad idea.

It's a subject I know very little about, but I always though this problem is when different metals come INTO CONTACT with each other and the corrosion between the 2 metals but if the parts are insulated and a good quality coolant used is there any need for concern, and if there is need for concern exactly how long are the effects going to take to appear, days, months? years? and if there are any effects what will they be? head studs corroding on WBXs' ? they do that on their own!!

Sitting back awaiting to be edumucated...

[Cruz]

any of the half decent motor factors should stock it, its pretty standard stuff
mike

I thought so but I had to have my blonde moment

[Oldiebut goodie]

Having seen a lot of nasties in boats with the effects of various fluids in contact with stainless I am always wary of setting up a circuit with totally dissimilar metals. The circuit is made through the liquid - the metals do not have to be in contact.
A favourite for corrosion is stainless steel tubing in a water cooled exhaust - usually a jointing piece in rubber exhaust pipes. Admittedly a vehicle is not exactly the same as a marine situation but there are still electrical connections via the fluids.Best to stick with the same materials as are already present to lessen the effect. As to whether we will get 30 years out of the stainless/ aluminium combination without losing the integrity of the waterways we will have to wait and see. (doubt I will be around to see though - or even care then if I am! )