Well, although I don't quite get some of the ins and outs
..think some of this is well worth Wickeying, so will have a go if I get the time soon.. seems all good stuff.
Agree! Although I usually go for butt-welding, am starting to overlap more now and just fill the lap to save the flap(ing when it all go pear shaped)
PS. I use Dinitrol metallic filler, from Frosts. Big tin lasts forever and really tough and flexible stuff. Dreadnought or milllenicut file rips it back to shape post haste!
Good post,before I started taking angle grinders to cars the thing that put me off was the "not knowing what was beneath".This post/wiki article shows exactly what the beginner will find and should give the rawest noob the confidence to have a go.If as mentioned in the wiki yours is worse than Covkids was just take your time,cut back to the nearest decent metal and work from there.Its like the saying-What one man can make another can mend.
Just a word about angry grinders,the wiki mentions goggles etc which is very important,but another habit they have is that of sparks sticking to window glass making it look a right bugger when they start to rust,and they are nigh on impossible to get rid of.So if your grinding any where near glass cover it up.
Trust me I know
Cov
Sorry to drag this thread up again
I've noticed this mentioned a few times when people replace sills.
Where you cut out the rot and rust you left a small amount that would fit under the top of the new panel yeah? What I don't understand is, if the new panel fits in place and the op of the new panel sits a couple of mm over the bottom of the original panel, how do the sides of the new panel sit flush to the sides of the van (seam part)... from what I've read having a slight overlap at the top makes welding easier as your not butt welding it.. but doesn't this overlap make the top corners/side lift a bit and not sit flush?
This is no issue since the small lip we left on the van was knocked back slightly, bringing the whole panel back into line - makes much more sense when you do it.
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Cool.. I only ask as following your wiki and posts will be the way I go i reckon..
So the edge you left on the original panel that would fit under the top of the replacement panel in order to aid welding is just tapped back slightly, possibly a nip in each corner with the snips/grinder, so that the top corners of the new panel sit in the gap?
You got it, although if you look, the bit we left is just short enough to bring the panel into the right place anyway. If theres any difference its merely the thickness of the steel which you would hardly notice. I do remember grinding it a little more to achieve that. The upright sections were welded from both sides (mostly the rear) to create an impression of a seam line. Again that makes sense when you offer up the panel. Incidentally the panel is usually long enough to cover the area + one pillar so up to you if you want to do it that way or cut to fit exactly Pete.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
yeah the panel is long enough to go past the seam.. I'll do some pics this weekend and post them up to see what people think.. if im heading in the right direction.
You can form a 'step' along the edge of the new section (or the existing section) using a 'joggler'. Not cheap (for a hand tool!) but solves the problem you are experiencing. The head also rotates and acts as a hole punch. These punched holes are on the panel that sits over the stepped section and are your weld points (almost like 'spot welding'). Useful tool as it enables a quick means of adding mild steel right angle section to panels that need flanges!
Apologies for butchering your pic (my replacement panel looks the same as yours).
So I'm thinking..(bare in mind this is first time I've done this.. so please shoot me down if I'm miles off so I don;t budge it )
I'll cut the old panel where the red line is, going a little way up the seam edge too.
Offer up new peice to old panel and tack weld the yellow bits and butt weld the white line. (obviously finishing up with seam welds in small stages to complete).
Heh... cheers.. although no matter how many times I read about them.. I still actually picture in my mind what it does .. read it and read it again... just can't visulise whats going on when used
