I did a silly thing tonight I saw some rust on my trailing arms and poked it Yes you know what happened.... The bradle went straight through
I can weld and have a MIG. My question is as thes are a highly stressed component....can they be welded..
The holes are by the outer pivot points ....a bad place.
Or has anybody got a pair for sale....
Glenn.
Life is not a rehearsal...Live life to the max....Buy a Aircooled VW and get covered in Rust and Oil.......But we all love it really....!!
I did a silly thing tonight I saw some rust on my trailing arms and poked it Yes you know what happened.... The bradle went straight through
I can weld and have a MIG. My question is as thes are a highly stressed component....can they be welded..
The holes are by the outer pivot points ....a bad place.
Or has anybody got a pair for sale....
Glenn.
Abit of a grey area when it comes to MOT that. It would have to be a bloody good weld and I still think some testers would pass and some would fail. As for me, I would have to have a good look at it and then scratch my head for ten minutes
IAN
I have been to BVFand today and purchased two replacement trailing arms. I took the braddle with me and gave them a good poke to ensure no holes lurking.
I will flat them off and treat the surface rust....What do you think the best paint is to paint them with....Hammerite....I think this will chip off as their so close to the wheels....
Any ideas
PS Cheers for the offer Windysurfer ...But I think the postage would have been high on this as they are very heavy.
Life is not a rehearsal...Live life to the max....Buy a Aircooled VW and get covered in Rust and Oil.......But we all love it really....!!
Well I have decided to rub them back and treat any surface rust (Not that theirs much) and hammerite them both. Ive spent enough this year on her. Cannot afford shot blasting and powder coating.
This year alone shes had a Clutch, pair of brake calipers, Tyre, and now a pair of trailing arms plus lots of little bits.
Anyway im not complaining I love me van, Bus...
Just one little query I have. I have just recieved my new `German` made trailing arm bushes....and the new bolts 12.9 Grade steel (That I was told to buy).....I have tried the new bolts in the bushes and their is a tiny..tiny amount of movement between the bolt and the steel insert in the bush (Not the insert in the rubber). Is that normal ?
Life is not a rehearsal...Live life to the max....Buy a Aircooled VW and get covered in Rust and Oil.......But we all love it really....!!
I have been to BVFand today and purchased two replacement trailing arms. I took the braddle with me and gave them a good poke to ensure no holes lurking.
I will flat them off and treat the surface rust....What do you think the best paint is to paint them with....Hammerite....I think this will chip off as their so close to the wheels....
Any ideas
PS Cheers for the offer Windysurfer ...But I think the postage would have been high on this as they are very heavy.
if you want to rust proof them this is the way to go. hammerite,powder coating and stove enamiling will chip and you will not get inside the trailing arm, hot dip galvanising is the only way.then they cant rust from the inside out see blow. inignor what i have done with mine re the cutting and welding, these went on to my syncro.
Having trouble getting the new bushes in the trailing arms. IVE Looked in the wiki but their is no mention of how to push these in.
Ive been to my local garage who are always helpful but their press is not wide enough to accept the trailing arm due to its shape. Ive also tried a threaded bar washers and vasolene but the bush is not moving. Any ideas..
Glenn
Life is not a rehearsal...Live life to the max....Buy a Aircooled VW and get covered in Rust and Oil.......But we all love it really....!!
i ended up paying my loclal vw man to press them in, charged me £40 to do all 4.having said that he do say it was a pain in the a55 to do! it may be worth sending adian a pm as i know that he has the right press fitting to do it.
Combined with Eastwoods Chassis Black finish*, excellent for producing a tough finish on parts that have been cleaned, wire-brushed and degreased, but not necessarily sand-blast perfect
A quick and relatively easy method (if you have a decent supply of elbow grease or twist-knot brushes) that can be done at home... the Chassis Black adheres very well to the RC900 anti-rust.
You will have enough of both those two products left to do other items or parts of chassis