Can you read what chips there are on the ecu? If you can it may be possible to work out which one is holding the info and reset it from the manufacturers datasheet info. - looking for an 8 to 14 leg chip most probably.(usually just a case of shorting one leg to ground or applying a voltage)
Did all the other resistances come within spec?
Now can you see why I say buy a Webasto!
Only chip worth a look at will be the 8 pin chip at left of centre on that side - can you read it's markings clearly?
What have you got on the other side?
That's an ISO 9141 interface chip - used for the diagnostics. There is a thermal shutdown within that chip @ 160 deg.C but it should reset automatically on cooling according to the datasheet. That's only a £1.64 chip!
The one we need will be buried on the other side by the look of it - worst luck.
i had my fears confirmed with the ebber dealer yesterday and had to fork out for a new ecu at nearly £400.00. so hoping to get the install finalised this weekend as dubfreeze is a no no now.
Hi, do either of you chaps trying to sort this riddle have the manual for the control unit? Sounds like I have the same issue with the same control unit also.
I have power through the control unit to all other components although the voltage to the glowpin is only 5.6v and the o/h stat is 4.95v. Not sure if this is right so any additional info here would be cool. Need to look at the programmer for codes now!!
An electronics technician posted this reply on a thread that I was dealing with on another forum:
"the D2 & D4 needs the voltage to be over 12.6V when starting up. If it drops below when the Glowplug is on it will cut the fuel and blow cold air for a few minutes.
The D2 was designed for a running engine and they put in this feature to stop you flattening your battery. If you can maintain 12.6V until the heater is running and the Glowplug shuts off, it will continue to run until the voltage drops to about 11V. It's a design flaw as far as I'm concerned because running on the Leisure battery it should run at 12V because the circuits will still run at that voltage. They put in this interlock as they thought it should only be ran on trucks with the engine running, never thought about Motorhomes.
You can flatten the battery fairly fast if it doesn't start up the first time so wait for the battery voltage to read about 13.2V with the engine running and charging from the alternator before you turn the heater on. Once it starts the voltage will drop down as low as 12.6 but it will run normally afterwards. Depending on the size (current capacity) of your batteries you may need more than 13.2 or less, the important thing is what the voltage is at with the Glowplug on.
If the heater starts and runs normally for a few minutes it usually indicates a fuel problem, either lack of or contamination. I found another cause, if you disconnect the plug at the wiring harness beside the heater and reconnect it, it will clean the contacts on the connector. take it off and put it on several times and this cleans the contacts. Don't use abrasives to clean contacts"
So you can see that voltage is critical on these particular models. Your voltages are way off.
As to your controller - do you mean ECU which is the controller or something else?