Battery Drain

[Barch]

Hi All

I suspect the battery on my Multivan is on its last legs. It just about turns the engine over now. I did, as suggested on here attach a lamp between the negative terminal and the removed negative lead. When I did this , the lamp lit for a while and went out. Then removing the 32A fuse in position 3 in the fuse box, the lamp fialed to light, so I guess I know where the drain is, or on which circuit it is!

Any suggestions on what would be on this fuse? I will get a manual ordered this week? On that topic, I was going to get a Haynes manual and also there is a DVD on ebay. Anyone got another suggestion?

cheers
Barch

[kevtherev]

and the engine and van year is....

[Barch]

and the engine and van year is....

Its 2.1L Multivan Hanover Edition. 1990. Maybe its those leckie mirrors

[1664]

Fuse 3; ciggie lighter, door open courtesy lights and........................your radio (which has a memory which requires a permanent supply to stop it 'forgetting'). It's the radio...........having said that the fuse shouldn't be 30amp, 15 according to the book. Your battery is probably knacked anyway, it's just that this is highlighting it.

[Barch]

Fuse 3; ciggie lighter, door open courtesy lights and........................your radio (which has a memory which requires a permanent supply to stop it 'forgetting'). It's the radio...........having said that the fuse shouldn't be 30amp, 15 according to the book. Your battery is probably knacked anyway, it's just that this is highlighting it.

I suspect you are right.
thanks

[CovKid]

I had the same problem for around six months. I don't listen to the radio part at all but the extra supply also remembers the last track I played on the DVD (Its a DVD MP3 player). In the short term I altered the circut so the stereo was absolutely off when not in use, however once I replacing the starter battery and wired the stereo to a second battery using a split charger, the problem vanished.

1664 is right. A gradually deteriorating battery will show its true colours on a stereo with a permanent live memory feed. Usually the first sign is that the van battery will be flat over 7 days, then in 3 days and so on until all you can do is disconnect memory feed. The battery may charge via a charger or the alternator, but it won't hold it for long. particularly with a memory feed or an interior light left on.

Recommend you fit my Barry Bucknell style voltmeter mod. A few have done this already: https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/VW ... ging_cause" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - it really is very simple to fit and I've included diagrams to suit virtually any scenario. Costs under a tenner and perfect for a T25 or small mobile home.

It gives peace of mind and over a period of time you'll start to see what uses power and can know at a glance the state of one or more batteries.

[Cafnod]

Agree with all of above, btw if you are fitting a new battery I always put them on a decent charger before fitting the battery, that way its absolutely tip top when it goes on and the alternator is only maintaining whats already there.
A battery rep told me this years ago and he reckoned it gave the battery a longer lease of life.
Ralph where are you sourcing these voltmeters from please? I am running low on smiths round ones and they wouldnt look right in a T25 anyway.

[CovKid]

Its in the WIKI. Anything I say has been written down and used in evidence against me

[Cafnod]

Put what you like in mate, I stand by what I say. I did look in the wiki and it said they were ordered from china, but not how to order one if I remember correctly, which is extremely unlikely I will admit. so if you could kindly clarify please................

[mark1967]

I did look in the wiki and it said they were ordered from china,. so if you could kindly clarify please................

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Blue-LCD-Volt-Met ... 5ad4bb6736" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Just received mine took about 3 weeks to get here.

[CovKid]

Have a proper read, I supply the link and what to buy: https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/VW ... ging_cause" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - they do post out pretty quick and sometimes you get funky chinese stamps too.

[Cafnod]

Thanks Mark, have bought one, just need to find out how the plastic heater cover comes of now, thats probably in the wiki too I imagine?

[CovKid]

Pull towards you

[Cafnod]

Thanks Ralph LMAO.
BTW couldnt open wiki last night, were you engaged in uploading a few T bytes o new info?

[CovKid]

No I keep some back for surprises. I was (for my sins) a mobile Aircooled mechanic for many years and have taken most of the 'types' apart down to the last nut and bolt and rebuilt them - several times over.

The most fun I had was putting a bored-up beetle engine in a T25 crewcab, and at the time, no one had ever done it or knew if it was possible. This was around 1982 when the T25 wasn't even acknowledged by Type2 owners. It was only after Frank (Frank's Bus Parts) and I sat a T25 bellhousing alongside a T2 one, that I began to hatch a plan. Took a stock 1600 beetle casing, had the crank reground and balanced with the flywheel, changed the cam for one more suited to climbing hills, chromoly pushrods, bigger pistons & barrels, swivel adjusters on the tappets, and fashioned tinware to fit and in it went. I have never ever found a T25 that could lift up quite like that did on an Aircooled engine and a lot more servicable than the 2.0 Aircooled.

My motto is....if someone says it can't be done, thats all the more reason to solve the problem. Oh, and don't waste money - theres often an equally good way to achieve the same on a tight budget!

For instance, everyone told me you can't fit a bike exhaust to a T25 - er you can! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8bvi6VuJS0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - and it was cheaper than a new VW silencer.