Fuel Gauge wiring

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Orangevan
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Fuel Gauge wiring

Post by Orangevan »

Vehicle details: 1988 RHD Transporter panel van, watercooled 1915cc petrol engine "E" reg. (I have checked in Wiki and Technical Questions and Answers, but not found the answer there)
Problem: The fuel gauge has died. I guess due to a broken wire/connection. Please can someone, who has done this before, explain the route of the sender wire from the tank to the gauge and suggest where the break might be. Please also explain what work might be needed to get at the sender wire to repair or replace it. With thanks in advance for any help received, 'Orangevan'

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AngeloEvs
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Re: Fuel Gauge wiring

Post by AngeloEvs »

Its unlikely to be a break in the loom itself. The wire goes directly from the Dash Multiconnector (Pin 7 colour code V/Bk) to the Fuel sender. The most likely problem is either at the sender terminal, the wire that connects to it or the sender itself. This connection is fragile so care is needed if you intend to check it or verify the sender is working by taking a resistance measurement. Grounding the wire should result in the gauge needle moving to full scale, if it does then the fault is more than likely the sender itself. Best of luck!
1987 DG Karisma LPG with remodelled interior

Orangevan
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Re: Fuel Gauge wiring

Post by Orangevan »

AngeloEvs, thanks for reply, sorry I have been away, I have not had a chance to make the checks you suggest. When I do, how difficult is it to get to the sender connection on the tank?

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AngeloEvs
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Re: Fuel Gauge wiring

Post by AngeloEvs »

In the Wiki is a picture of a fuel tanl showing the precise location of the sender........use the link below and scroll down the article. How easy or difficult it is to access in situ I have no idea but have read that it can be accessed from the rear wheel arch.

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Fu ... nk_removal
1987 DG Karisma LPG with remodelled interior

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CovKid
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Re: Fuel Gauge wiring

Post by CovKid »

Indeed, but take the wheel off unless your arms are only 1" in diameter. :rofl

You need a flat bar of metal pressed into the slots on the sender to turn it and remove, but not sure if you'll get enough purchase on it from under the wheel arch or have enough room to wriggle it out, but definately worth as try.
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