Spraying outside

Post by **Cruz** » 25 May 2006, 21:47

Sorry to hijack but Sometime this summer I'm going to have a little DIY attempt at sprucing up some of my seam rash. I'll be most likely using a pre-mixed spray can I get matched up from a local paint supplier.

Anyone got any tips or no-no's?

Post by **missusjen** » 25 May 2006, 21:57

Remove all traces of rust, and use a proper seam sealant - don't be tempted to try anything silicone......

Post by **Frostbus** » 25 May 2006, 22:01

Think most refinishing factors have computerised colourmatching services, for a small charge they have a devise that displays the tinters required to reproduce the colour.
you can have just an aerosol charged with this coulour and keep the formula for future reference.
better though to get a 1 ltr mixed then ask them to charge the aerosols from that, doing this means the colour will be the same rather than them mixing small amounts over again .

when you have repaired the bits be patient and leave for a week before you blend into existing paintwork

Post by **Cruz** » 25 May 2006, 22:03

What about rust treatment first before re-spraying the area? and how easy is it to blend it in?

Basically it's a long time before we can get a professional fix and respray so I'm just doing as good and as cheap a cover us as I can for asthetical purposes

Post by **Frostbus** » 25 May 2006, 22:12

i'm sure there is a subject on the Wiki about treating the seams dont think you can ever eradicate rust with treatments only delay it follow the advise on the wiki for seam rust treatment.
when the rust has been tackled flat aorund the area at least 1 inch from the rusted area feather out the edge mask and prime(roll the masking tape back on itself to produce a tube it will limit mask lines)
when this is dry sand and feather out again always dry sand 'aluminium oxide paper'
mask again at least 2 inches from the primer edge and spray the colour from the centre out in light coats, aerosols dont build well so this will take quite a few coats to build paint enough to wet flat and blend in !
leave for at least a week then wet flat with 1500 w&d
mop with cutting compound g7
job done!

Post by **trickydicky** » 25 May 2006, 22:12

I spent a fortune on mine getting new panels welded in.
Sent it to a main dealer (not V.W.) for the spray. If you think you can get a quality paint job outside without a heated booth and quality equipment then can you do mine next

I was robbed we have rust & bubbles. Oh and if it was hard to get to no paint makes me feel special

If I do another, out with the roller again and I will do it myself

Post by **angry vanagon** » 28 May 2006, 18:08

a reasonable brush paint job can be done with quality coach paint, quality brushes, and a well prepared base. proper coach enamels blend brush marks as they are drying so should leave no marks or tram lines

Post by **chrisray** » 20 Jul 2006, 18:36

Horney wrote:I'm gonna be painting mine with a roller!

I'm gonna be using Military grade Nato green paint which apparently will go on perfic with a roller and as it's a matt finish it should look fine.

Wish me luck!

Nick

let's us know how it gets on. i'm thinking tekaloid perhaps but i dont want a flat finish.

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 20 Jul 2006, 18:59

No no no Not Tekaloid. Its a swine to work with.

Take a look at this first:

You can use rustoleum and a roller to get THAT kind of finish. (beetle was done just this way)

Follow entire thread and links here: http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread ... ge=1&pp=10

I'm doing mine with a roller - just finishing the prepping.

Post by **Tex Ritter** » 20 Jul 2006, 20:14

Frostbus wrote:Bloody insects!!!
they love paint and the big ones dont just stick to it they crawl through it!
if you do decide to spray out side pick a day thats not to hot (dont think we wil be having many of them) and wet the floor around the vehicle with a wateringcan to trap the dust and crud and stop it spoiling you paint.
use a fast thinner (standard) rather than (premium cellulose thinners these have extra solvents in them to slow the drying process).
light coats 20 mins between each no more than 4 (each pass of the gun) if you try and get to much on too quick you will get solvent pop.
as long as the panels dont dry to quick you will get a good finish if they bloom you can recover with premium thinned paint (this dries slower) but every insect in the area will be heading for your bus if its yellow or red!!
would not recomend synthetics they are realy a gun or brush finish and dont cut or polish like cellulose, unless they have been on a while.

also must mention if you paint the roof work from the gutter to the middle this way when you run round to do the other side it should still be a wet edge!!
no one should be using 2 K products outside, and inside a full face resperator and disposable overalls should be worn
better to have dodgy paint than risk health problems
good luck

Excellent advice there. Millions of those harvest mites around at the moment, to consider spraying outside.

TR

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 20 Jul 2006, 20:17

Things against spraying are the generation of dust and the amount of paint you lose in the air. I can spray ok but if results like those above are possible with a roller then thats the way I'm going - plus the fact Rustoleum doesn't need a primer. Its a very tough paint indeed and designed for hard use like plant machinery, trucks and tractors. Stockist says they can supply it in virtually any colour.

Post by **"WEAZLECHIN"** » 21 Jul 2006, 08:42

prep, prep, prep, and prep again. just go for it, you will find out if it worked when youve finnished!!!

Post by **chrisray** » 21 Jul 2006, 13:06

missusjen wrote:Remove all traces of rust, and use a proper seam sealant - don't be tempted to try anything silicone......

got any particular names i could look out for?