Spraying outside

Post by **Drew** » 24 May 2006, 13:52

The time is rapidly approaching where I mess up, sorry re-spray the chuggabug. Problem is that I will be doing it outside.

Does anyone have any tips for me? Do I need an army of mates with hairdriers?

Post by **purplechugster** » 24 May 2006, 14:19

Hair-driers are good, yes...

Im in the same boat - waiting for a good weekend where I can get as much done as possible before it gets rained on

I'm assuming you've got a compressor etc?

So wait for the right day - warm, sunny, no wind, DEFINITELY not going to rain. Make sure as much prepping as possible is done in advance - but dont prime beforehand, 'cos primer isnt waterproof (speaking from bitter experience there).

Best to have an army of people there that can rub down between coats, but depends on how much you want to put into it, and how many friends you've got

Post by **Drew** » 24 May 2006, 14:26

HAHA, no wind and no rain, I like it.

As an aside, I have been pointed towards something called Barcoat...

"BARCOAT is a quick drying yellow oxide isolator. It
is designed to prevent lifting and bleeding of existing
paint film sensitive to solvent attack when overcoated
with cellulose or paint containing strong solvents."

Apparently it's barcoat first to stop any old paint lifting, no sanding, then primer then topcoat(s)

Anyone used this?

Post by **purplechugster** » 24 May 2006, 14:44

If the paints cr@p/rusting/lifting, it'll have to come off anyway - there's no way something like that will cure it. And if the paint is in okay condition, then putting primer then topcoats on it should be fine.

Preparation is everything - I wouldnt take any shortcuts

At least, Im not going to this time...

Post by **TOMMY THE CAT** » 24 May 2006, 18:43

I used an isolator on me van when I got a bad reaction personally I would try a bit of cellulose thinners on a rag on a discreet part of the van if there is no reaction then I would just primer and top coat as normal.
This is assuming you are using cellulose paint?!?
I am not a 2 pack expert so........I know nothing D

Post by **Frostbus** » 24 May 2006, 21:21

Hi
if it's just a case of get some paint on and use it then go for it anything is better than rust but.........
to be honest a vehicle of this size takes some prepping and as said before it needs to be dry for quite a while for it to be sucessfull, cellulose sinks back when drying (anything up to two weeks for all solvent to gass off) so you could prime and prep in the same day look perfect only to find in a couple of days a mapping effect to appear and when you flat it out you remove most of the paint you applied!!
Barcoat or paint isolator's are excellent products they stop reaction problems between different paint types like synthetic acrylic and cellulose.
Dont even attemp 2k products they contain isocyanates which are as nasty as they sound also they are not suited to spraying outside!!
The time spent on prepping will be rewarded but only if it's kept dry also never wet flat any primer or filler's there are D'a discs now that go as fine as 1200+
have a chat with your local refinishing factors for help
clock is ticking for solvent based products EU wants them banned so stock up guys or it's a trip to homebase for a can of Dulux

Post by **missusjen** » 24 May 2006, 23:04

TOMMY THE CAT wrote:I used an isolator on me van when I got a bad reaction personally I would try a bit of cellulose thinners on a rag on a discreet part of the van if there is no reaction then I would just primer and top coat as normal.
This is assuming you are using cellulose paint?!?
I am not a 2 pack expert so........I know nothing D

I've not used 'barcoat', nor heard of it, but if you try and spray 2 pack over 'rattle can' paint, you get the nasty reaction in varying degrees......

Post by **phredd** » 25 May 2006, 06:14

I am informed that a paint known as "Tekaloid" (spelling?) is OK.
Can anyone enlighten me ?

Phredd

Post by **lone gunman** » 25 May 2006, 08:04

Tekaloid is a coach paint, very good stuff and suitable for brush painting with a reasonable finish, thinking of going that route myself.

Post by **purplechugster** » 25 May 2006, 09:10

lone gunman wrote: brush painting

Nooooooooooooo!!!!!!

Brush painting will be a disaster on your van! Whatever paint you use! People say you can, but its all a lie. When you're doing big panels (ie a T25) then the brush strokes are blindingly obvious

There's a reason mines be re-painted again as soon as there's some dry weather....

Post by **Horney** » 25 May 2006, 09:18

I'm gonna be painting mine with a roller!

I'm gonna be using Military grade Nato green paint which apparently will go on perfic with a roller and as it's a matt finish it should look fine.

Wish me luck!

Nick

Post by **trickydicky** » 25 May 2006, 14:39

I painted a Range Rover many years ago with cellulose paint and a roller, I got a half decent finish untill the celulose started to break the sponge up

resulting in an interesting textured finnish

Oh and my friend got me the paint and left the colour as a suprise, it was cirres if thats how you spell it (or pink)

Post by **kevtherev** » 25 May 2006, 15:08

purplechugster wrote:
Brush painting will be a disaster on your van!

What utter tosh ...My father was a coach builder and painted the panels with "Tekaliod" paint, the results were a comperable with spray painting..using the correct brushes and some instruction it's an alternative worth using.

Post by **purplechugster** » 25 May 2006, 15:24

kevtherev wrote: What utter tosh ...My father was a coach builder and painted the panels with "Tekaliod" paint, the results were a comperable with spray painting..using the correct brushes and some instruction it's an alternative worth using.

Good.... fine.... but most people, certainly most people doing the van in a rush outside, will get very poor results doing it with a brush, particularly if they dont have experience of "the correct brushes".

An amateur T25 painter will get far superior results spraying the van, as long as they put the time into the preparation.

Post by **Frostbus** » 25 May 2006, 21:27

Bloody insects!!!
they love paint and the big ones dont just stick to it they crawl through it!
if you do decide to spray out side pick a day thats not to hot (dont think we wil be having many of them) and wet the floor around the vehicle with a wateringcan to trap the dust and crud and stop it spoiling you paint.
use a fast thinner (standard) rather than (premium cellulose thinners these have extra solvents in them to slow the drying process).
light coats 20 mins between each no more than 4 (each pass of the gun) if you try and get to much on too quick you will get solvent pop.
as long as the panels dont dry to quick you will get a good finish if they bloom you can recover with premium thinned paint (this dries slower) but every insect in the area will be heading for your bus if its yellow or red!!
would not recomend synthetics they are realy a gun or brush finish and dont cut or polish like cellulose, unless they have been on a while.

also must mention if you paint the roof work from the gutter to the middle this way when you run round to do the other side it should still be a wet edge!!
no one should be using 2 K products outside, and inside a full face resperator and disposable overalls should be worn
better to have dodgy paint than risk health problems
good luck