Ello,
My clutch slave cylinder dumped its load the other day all over the road, whilst parked. I had to drive the beast so topped up the reservoir, and it held most of it. Sent it off to the garriage for the MOT with the plan to get the slave cylinder fixed at the same time. They couldn't do it then so, I went to pick up the van ,having virtually passed with no major probs, the reservoir has run doen below the clutch feed pipe, and no operation of clutch. I've topped it up again, but can't bring any pressure back in to the operation of the clutch.
What to do? will the fluid slowly get down to the slave cylinder, so I can at least move the van out of its current steep up hill position without starting in gear, or do I need to bleed it before even attempting to move it somewhere to replace the slave cylinder and what are the chances the bleed nipple will snap off like my brake nipples did once?
Can the slave cylinder usually be repaired or is it worth spending the rather minimal £35 for a new one? How easy are they to fit (looks dead easy according to Mr Haynes but am anticipating probs)
Any help gratefully receieved.
Ta
Robin
81' 2.0 Aircooled and LPG'd viking
clutch slave cylinder dumped its load
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The lines sometimes get blocked with rubbish. Its the lines that can be a problem to fix.
Ensure pushrod is up inside slave and piston isn't jammed at limit of its travel and will push back up into cylinder.
To bleed effectively it helps to jam the operating arm to stop it working the clutch thus forcing fluid out of nipple immediately you start bleeding.
With a well-fitting ring spanner used carefully you should be able to open the bleed nipple. A helper can help! One alternately loosens/tightens nipple, other alternately pushes pedal right down and then up when tightened till good flow of clean fluid comes through. If it packs up again then change the slave, but it might just be blocked or taken a gulp of air when piston right down.
Wiki has a fair bit on this too...
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... isengaging
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30903
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... eplacement
Ensure pushrod is up inside slave and piston isn't jammed at limit of its travel and will push back up into cylinder.
To bleed effectively it helps to jam the operating arm to stop it working the clutch thus forcing fluid out of nipple immediately you start bleeding.
With a well-fitting ring spanner used carefully you should be able to open the bleed nipple. A helper can help! One alternately loosens/tightens nipple, other alternately pushes pedal right down and then up when tightened till good flow of clean fluid comes through. If it packs up again then change the slave, but it might just be blocked or taken a gulp of air when piston right down.
Wiki has a fair bit on this too...
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... isengaging
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30903
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... eplacement
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Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
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- Ian Hulley
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my first repair was the slave cylinder, the nuts and bolts are a little fiddlely, but the problem I was faced was that I had a hard plastic clutch pipe which had seized onto the cylinder and needed to be cut, the main problem was getting a replacement for that but VW sell them, the part number is somewhere on this forum.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..
The other threads with info on the plastic pipes...
http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=16539
http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=30903
http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=16539
http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=30903
The 80-90 Tech Wikipedia Your 1st port of call

Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
Syncronaut No. 1
- Ian Hulley
- Registered user
- Posts: 12661
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 08:08
- 80-90 Mem No: 1323
- Location: Wirksworth, Derbyshire ... or at t'mill