sorting out my rust....
Moderators: User administrators, Moderators
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 1804
- Joined: 12 Oct 2005, 09:39
- 80-90 Mem No: 1242
- Location: north west
- Contact:
sorting out my rust....
My van is starting to look a bit like a shed down the drivers side. It was resprayed about 3 years ago but its starting to creep back. See pics below.
I'm going to try and sort it out myself, but as i've never done anything lke this before, wanted to run it by you guys first to make sure i go about it the right way.
1) wash the van!
2) rub the rust down with sand paper (which kind?)
3) put some of that rustcure stuff on the rust to turn it back to metal?
Then do I paint it with primer, or put some filler in the seams? I have heard mention of something called sikalfex or something? What is this and is this the best stuff to use? After this, do we paint with primer and then paint with the metalic blue paint?
Its gonna look patchy obviously as the new paint won't mach exactly with the old paint i don't think. I was thinking of masking it off and trying to paint it so at least it was a neat straight line.
The paint is a metallic blue. I bought a touch up paint pen thing from halfords last year to do some scratches with and it is a darker colour really. Should look better than rust though and help preserve it for a bit at least. With metalic paint, painting the seams, how woud you do it? brush, pen, spray can, roller?
I know it aint gona look ace but as money is tighter these days i'm hoping it won't be too bad.
Any tips on matching it in or making it look better much appreciated. Also would you put filler in the gaps around the petrol cap (see pics below)
Is there any stage that it shouldn't be left in for any length of time? Ie, once rubbed down and rust cured does it ideall need painting straight away etc. Time is shorter so probably do this over a few weeks etc...
Thanks in advance,
Kathy
[img:480:640]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f206/ ... 008036.jpg[/img]
[img:640:480]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f206/ ... 008035.jpg[/img]
[img:640:480]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f206/ ... 008034.jpg[/img]
[img:480:640]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f206/ ... 008033.jpg[/img]
I'm going to try and sort it out myself, but as i've never done anything lke this before, wanted to run it by you guys first to make sure i go about it the right way.
1) wash the van!
2) rub the rust down with sand paper (which kind?)
3) put some of that rustcure stuff on the rust to turn it back to metal?
Then do I paint it with primer, or put some filler in the seams? I have heard mention of something called sikalfex or something? What is this and is this the best stuff to use? After this, do we paint with primer and then paint with the metalic blue paint?
Its gonna look patchy obviously as the new paint won't mach exactly with the old paint i don't think. I was thinking of masking it off and trying to paint it so at least it was a neat straight line.
The paint is a metallic blue. I bought a touch up paint pen thing from halfords last year to do some scratches with and it is a darker colour really. Should look better than rust though and help preserve it for a bit at least. With metalic paint, painting the seams, how woud you do it? brush, pen, spray can, roller?
I know it aint gona look ace but as money is tighter these days i'm hoping it won't be too bad.
Any tips on matching it in or making it look better much appreciated. Also would you put filler in the gaps around the petrol cap (see pics below)
Is there any stage that it shouldn't be left in for any length of time? Ie, once rubbed down and rust cured does it ideall need painting straight away etc. Time is shorter so probably do this over a few weeks etc...
Thanks in advance,
Kathy
[img:480:640]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f206/ ... 008036.jpg[/img]
[img:640:480]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f206/ ... 008035.jpg[/img]
[img:640:480]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f206/ ... 008034.jpg[/img]
[img:480:640]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f206/ ... 008033.jpg[/img]
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 27
- Joined: 22 Feb 2007, 11:15
- 80-90 Mem No: 0
- Location: bedfordshire
- Titus A Duxass
- Registered user
- Posts: 5777
- Joined: 24 Nov 2007, 08:22
- 80-90 Mem No: 4475
- Location: Cologne
1) wash the van!
Good start.
For that rust you are going to have to use something more serious, the problem is that the rust is coming from inside the seam. You need to remove as much rust as possible down to bare metal. You need a grinder or at minimum a Dremel type tool. Maybe there is some kind soul who can give a hand. Then fill the gouges/grindings. If you do not do this the rust will be back in no time at all.2) rub the rust down with sand paper (which kind?)
3) put some of that rustcure stuff on the rust to turn it back to metal?
There a no products on earth that changes rust back to metal, they only delay the return.
You will need to fill the ground areas and then rub them down with sandpaper.Then do I paint it with primer, or put some filler in the seams?
No idea, sikaflex sounds like a bathroom sealant.I have heard mention of something called sikalfex or something? What is this and is this the best stuff to use?
Yes and Yes. Paint with primer, you can buy aerosol tins of 2-Pack primer which will form a good base and help seal the rust in. Then rub down with wet n dry (250 or 400 grade) to remove the nibs and some imperfections. then apply a further coat of primer. Again lightly rub down and finish with the top colour.After this, do we paint with primer and then paint with the metalic blue paint?
I would go for aerosol. Remember that you are trying to get rid of the rust and not restore your bus to concours condition.The paint is a metallic blue. I bought a touch up paint pen thing from halfords last year to do some scratches with and it is a darker colour really. Should look better than rust though and help preserve it for a bit at least. With metalic paint, painting the seams, how woud you do it? brush, pen, spray can, roller?
. It will look better.I know it aint gona look ace but as money is tighter these days i'm hoping it won't be too bad
That's pretty ugly, just grind as much rust out as possible and fill afterwards.Also would you put filler in the gaps around the petrol cap (see pics below)
you have to wait approx 20 - 30 mins between spray coats (depending on the temperature).Is there any stage that it shouldn't be left in for any length of time? Ie, once rubbed down and rust cured does it ideall need painting straight away etc. Time is shorter so probably do this over a few weeks etc...
VW T3 GTi Camper 2,0l
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 1804
- Joined: 12 Oct 2005, 09:39
- 80-90 Mem No: 1242
- Location: north west
- Contact:
thanks. mm, dremel tool.... do you mean a small hand held grinding tool? anyone know any inexpensive tools which would be suitable for this job? quick look on a couple of sites seem to show grinding and polishing tools, but are these just bits, like drill bits? ie do you need a tool to put them in? how much should I expect to pay for THE tool to do this job?
thanks
kathy
thanks
kathy
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 7
- Joined: 10 Jan 2006, 20:31
- 80-90 Mem No: 4941
- Location: Branston,Lincolnshire
sorting out my rust
If you want your van to look good , read all the postings of "paint your wagon with a roller. Did mine, best £50 I've spent on it and you can do it bit at a time as weather permits.
Regards Mel
Regards Mel
member 4941
Home brew tin top -blue/white
Home brew tin top -blue/white
- edoh
- Registered user
- Posts: 240
- Joined: 12 Aug 2007, 08:42
- 80-90 Mem No: 3974
- Location: epping essex
you can get a dremel kit - a small power drill - various attachments (including grinders and sanders and a flexible extension) from woolies - in a stainless steel box - currently half price - £20 -
my experience of the rust in van problem - take time - be thorough - sand back to bare metal wherever possible - stick on rust treatment - (muchachas discussion on this forum about which brand is best) - sand lightly - more rust treatment - filler if necessarry - sand lightly - more rust treatment - then primer - sand lightly - bottom coat - sand lightly - top coat - if you want a 'blended' look to the surrounding paint - try a little t cut on a cloth and work in -
the bits i didnt rustproof properly on my van - inevitably came back to haunt me a little while later -
so 20 squids - dremel tool n attachments
10 squids - filler and hardener
10 squids - can of hammerite - or other rust proof treatment -
10 squids for cloth - various grades of sand paper - brushes to paint on with -
10 squid for asparay can of paint to match yr van -
n you av a 60 quid starter pack to av a go at your rust -

my experience of the rust in van problem - take time - be thorough - sand back to bare metal wherever possible - stick on rust treatment - (muchachas discussion on this forum about which brand is best) - sand lightly - more rust treatment - filler if necessarry - sand lightly - more rust treatment - then primer - sand lightly - bottom coat - sand lightly - top coat - if you want a 'blended' look to the surrounding paint - try a little t cut on a cloth and work in -
the bits i didnt rustproof properly on my van - inevitably came back to haunt me a little while later -
so 20 squids - dremel tool n attachments
10 squids - filler and hardener
10 squids - can of hammerite - or other rust proof treatment -
10 squids for cloth - various grades of sand paper - brushes to paint on with -
10 squid for asparay can of paint to match yr van -
n you av a 60 quid starter pack to av a go at your rust -


Owner of a red T25 fixed hi top campervan - colour - spikey red - petrol - water cooled - 1.9 dg engine rhd - 1990 g reg n still going strong!-
- edoh
- Registered user
- Posts: 240
- Joined: 12 Aug 2007, 08:42
- 80-90 Mem No: 3974
- Location: epping essex
also
(he continues breathlessly) -
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Bo ... Glass_Rust
for seasoned hints -
not sure why i'm pretending to have any expertise on this! - my rusty van story - went to local motor factors having sanded/scraped/ big rusty areas back to bare metal - man behind counter says - what are you after? red primer says i - for rusty van - ahh he says - you'll need this - offers up can - reads primer red - we call that pikey red! says (politically incorrect/but engagingly helpful) motor factor man - i'll have 6 cans says i - love the stuff so much - that i've painted whole van with it - using roller - spray can - and paint brush -
no need to blend in for me!
so any little knock - i just grab another can primer red -
local hoods who might av taken an interest in 'borrowing' the van - just walk staright past it - commenting - 'nah way - look at the colour on it - dont go wiv me trainers'!
i'm just a lucky guy like that!

(he continues breathlessly) -
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Bo ... Glass_Rust
for seasoned hints -
not sure why i'm pretending to have any expertise on this! - my rusty van story - went to local motor factors having sanded/scraped/ big rusty areas back to bare metal - man behind counter says - what are you after? red primer says i - for rusty van - ahh he says - you'll need this - offers up can - reads primer red - we call that pikey red! says (politically incorrect/but engagingly helpful) motor factor man - i'll have 6 cans says i - love the stuff so much - that i've painted whole van with it - using roller - spray can - and paint brush -
no need to blend in for me!
so any little knock - i just grab another can primer red -
local hoods who might av taken an interest in 'borrowing' the van - just walk staright past it - commenting - 'nah way - look at the colour on it - dont go wiv me trainers'!
i'm just a lucky guy like that!

Owner of a red T25 fixed hi top campervan - colour - spikey red - petrol - water cooled - 1.9 dg engine rhd - 1990 g reg n still going strong!-
- flutes_of_chi
- Registered user
- Posts: 13
- Joined: 22 Feb 2008, 18:01
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 602
- Joined: 06 Nov 2006, 18:12
- 80-90 Mem No: 3096
- Location: Bristol. 1985 1.9 Devon Pop Top (L.P.G)
A Dremel has not got the guts to tackle deep down rust (a waste of time & money) I use a large wire wheel on the end of a normal drill, this bumps the rust and paint off (down to the metal) TOP TIP...always use goggles as a bit of rust or wire from the brush can get in your eye and then you ve got big probs.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Sherlock.
[IMG:75:100]http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc91 ... 9117-2.gif[/img] Remember the 7 Ps......Prior Planning & Preperation Prevents Pi$$ Poor performance.
[IMG:75:100]http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc91 ... 9117-2.gif[/img] Remember the 7 Ps......Prior Planning & Preperation Prevents Pi$$ Poor performance.
- edoh
- Registered user
- Posts: 240
- Joined: 12 Aug 2007, 08:42
- 80-90 Mem No: 3974
- Location: epping essex
i'd go with the above advice -
i used a normal drill with various attachments - to shift the rust - and then a sander to level the filler that was used - saves a lot of elbow energy -
i used a normal drill with various attachments - to shift the rust - and then a sander to level the filler that was used - saves a lot of elbow energy -

Owner of a red T25 fixed hi top campervan - colour - spikey red - petrol - water cooled - 1.9 dg engine rhd - 1990 g reg n still going strong!-
- Titus A Duxass
- Registered user
- Posts: 5777
- Joined: 24 Nov 2007, 08:22
- 80-90 Mem No: 4475
- Location: Cologne
A Dremel is perfectly capable of doing the task if you use it correctly!
Use the small grinding stones that can be found in the kit and take your time. If you rush it you will only burn out the tools.
Using a wire bush attached will remove the surface rust but will do nothing for the deeper lying problem.
A grinder is the best solution, when you first remove the surface (red/brown) crap you will see bright metal (good) with little black areas in it. These black areas are rust, you need to remove these or at least get them as small as possible and then if you with apply your rust treatment (these treatments are a waste of money in my opinion).
Do not put rust treatment on top of filler, it should only go on bare metal.
If you do use any Hammerite products you have wait six weeks before over painting because of the long cure time.
Use the small grinding stones that can be found in the kit and take your time. If you rush it you will only burn out the tools.
Using a wire bush attached will remove the surface rust but will do nothing for the deeper lying problem.
A grinder is the best solution, when you first remove the surface (red/brown) crap you will see bright metal (good) with little black areas in it. These black areas are rust, you need to remove these or at least get them as small as possible and then if you with apply your rust treatment (these treatments are a waste of money in my opinion).
Do not put rust treatment on top of filler, it should only go on bare metal.
If you do use any Hammerite products you have wait six weeks before over painting because of the long cure time.
VW T3 GTi Camper 2,0l
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 602
- Joined: 06 Nov 2006, 18:12
- 80-90 Mem No: 3096
- Location: Bristol. 1985 1.9 Devon Pop Top (L.P.G)
Titus A Duxass wrote:A Dremel is perfectly capable of doing the task if you use it correctly!
.
You must have one hell of a gutsy Dremel there mate. Most Dremels ive used are ok for making models and hobby jobs.
Sherlock.
[IMG:75:100]http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc91 ... 9117-2.gif[/img] Remember the 7 Ps......Prior Planning & Preperation Prevents Pi$$ Poor performance.
[IMG:75:100]http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc91 ... 9117-2.gif[/img] Remember the 7 Ps......Prior Planning & Preperation Prevents Pi$$ Poor performance.
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 27
- Joined: 22 Feb 2007, 11:15
- 80-90 Mem No: 0
- Location: bedfordshire
I did notice when I was doing my radiator exactly how bad the rust on the inner seams is also you can see far too much daylight showing through the panels 
out of sight out of mind put a massive flower over the petrol filler, to cover up the home made repair

out of sight out of mind put a massive flower over the petrol filler, to cover up the home made repair

Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..
- Titus A Duxass
- Registered user
- Posts: 5777
- Joined: 24 Nov 2007, 08:22
- 80-90 Mem No: 4475
- Location: Cologne
- just a standard Dremel (not cordless), the object is to keep the tool spinning at a high speed. If you bog it down it will be useless. The thing with Dremel's is that they are relatively safe for novices to use (unlike an angle grinder which can do a hell of a lot of damage in a short time (to flesh as well as metal)).You must have one hell of a gutsy Dremel there mate. Most Dremels ive used are ok for making models and hobby jobs.
VW T3 GTi Camper 2,0l