Flickering Oil Light

Post by **Poddington** » 19 May 2007, 17:34

Hi,
Been running my T25 for few months now but over last few days, when the engine gets hot the oil warning light flickers while the van is idling, any suggestions as to what this is? As soon as the van revs, light is out and it never comes on properly, oil levels are fine and just had a change so not too sure what prob is?

Van is a 1982 2 litre Aircooled.

Any ideas very much appreciated!

Post by **toomanytoys** » 19 May 2007, 18:02

Er... oil pressure!!!!!
Thats what the lamp indicates....

So, check the actual oil pressure as it could be a faulty switch (or just fit a good quality new switch to eliminate it)
What grade oil was used? and what make oil filter?
A branded 15w40 is the min weight oil I would use... and on a tired engine a 20w50 might be prudent..
Also are the cooling flaps opening fully, if the engine is getting too hot and that means the oil too then, it will thin a lot more.. (note, incorrect ignition timing will cause a hot engine too)
Worth checking the oil cooler isnt blocked up with grott too (where the air is blown over it)

Post by **Hacksawbob** » 19 May 2007, 18:59

if the oil light flickers dimly it is most likely an electrical fault if the oil pressure is truly low the light will come on bright (possible still flickering though) and you will most likely get the buzzer too, if its working. I'm not sure if the buzzer was fitted to Aircooled
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Al ... and_causes

Post by **phade** » 20 May 2007, 21:41

First of all do NOT use 15W40 mineral oil. It is too thin for the 2.0 litre Aircooled engine in our climate, use 15W50 or 20W50 mineral oil instead.

As for the oil light flickering, treat this as a warning sign !! As far as I remember in all of the Aircooled VW car/van instruction manuals, a flashing oil light quite literally means "stop at once" !!!

Check the engine for oil leaks, missing engine tin and blockages around it's fan housing. Also check the oil breather hose for sludge. Replace all suspect parts.

Whilst you are looking for oil leaks, missing engine tinware and blockages in it's fan housing, check the alternator's belt defection after you have put the fan housing back together. This should be about 13mm at the centre of the belt with light thumb pressure.

Also if the engine is rattling badly, then the hydraulic tappets may need to be removed to be serviced.

The engine oil and filter on these engines should be changed every 5,000 miles. This is imperitive to ensure that the engine is not damaged due to lack of serivicing.

Flushing out the engine oil may also be a good idea to remove any sludge stuck within the engine its self.

I hope this helps.

Post by **sendiw** » 20 May 2007, 23:05

Some good advice there. Check that the thermostat is actually opening the cooling vents and if not., fix it so they stay open. The oil debate still rages.some say a thick oil to increase the pressure others a thin(Morris)oil because it cools better thru the oil cooler.Personally I think if your engine is a little worn you will always get this problem.Mine was the same and I tried both types of oil but it made no difference untill I overhauled the engine and fitted a heavy duty oil pump.
Have fun

Post by **T3teedub** » 21 May 2007, 06:44

Heavier oil is best advice and check the engine idle speed. These engines need to idle quite fast.

Post by **KarlT** » 21 May 2007, 10:03

If you've just changed the oil put in some 'slick 50'.........wonderful stuff!!!

Post by **Poddington** » 22 May 2007, 12:24

Cheers for all the advice, definately got a few things to have a look at. Oil was changed as part of a service at an vw air cooled specialist so not too sure about the filter/oil etc but I'm assuming he used decent materials, planning on going away in it soon so I'll be sorting it over the weekend, don't fancy ruining it!
Thanks very much for the help.

Post by **T3teedub** » 22 May 2007, 12:40

You have to bear in mind that there are many different types of "VW Aircooled specialists" out there and they are not all angels and not all actually specialists. Only time will tell if your specialist is one of the good ol' boys

Post by **kit** » 22 May 2007, 20:19

Has anyone ever fitted an oil presure gauge? I asked in GSF and they said it was not possible because of the length of pipe needed. I have problems with the buzzer and light depending on what oil/oil fillter I use, it would be good to know for certain everything was ok.

Post by **Horza** » 23 May 2007, 08:03

not possible because of the length of pipe needed

Heheh, nice one. Oil pressure sender is just that, a sender. You only get a wire to the front, not a pipe. Not sure where you would put it in the oil system TBH but is there any reason you can't use a sadwich plate thing at the oil filter? The straight through sensor mount ones are fairly cheap.

Post by **T3teedub** » 23 May 2007, 11:01

I am not familiar with modern ones (are there any?) but I have had vehicles with a capillary tube from the engine to the guage. Those would need to be of a very long length to use on a T25. I assume if you had a sender unit on the engine then only a wire link would be needed.

Post by **MikeB** » 23 May 2007, 12:50

You need to make sure you get an 'electric' Oil Pressure Gauge. Then you just need to run a single wire from the sender to the gauge.

I have an extension, then a 'T' piece connecting the original pressure switch and the sender for the gauge into the sender location by the left cylinder head on my DJ engine.

Mike.

Post by **jason k** » 24 May 2007, 16:10

the jk kit with the dipstick mounted temp sender works on the 2000cu.
as for the flaps................ if the stat fails (very rarely still fitted as they are all but unobtainable) the flaps fall into the fully open position Always!!"!
i wouls say its your oil at fault change to a mineral 15 40
bum just read again you want a pressure gauge............

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