MAJOR corrosion trap alert.....
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MAJOR corrosion trap alert.....
You can see it here as I'm not frigging about with copy and paste right now.
Diamond Hell
Still Syncro, just much fasterer
Still Syncro, just much fasterer
Fookin blinkin Hell mun, Hehe!
Now I know who had my patented 'box-section de-silting hose vacuum attachment' away at Bristol... and my 3 foot probing rods
Diamond 'corrosion killer' Hell
Seriously, now you've opened it up, got good access, dried it all up, and wire-brushed it all up - go for Eastwoods' Rust Encapsulator - you know it makes sense
Then maybe a yearly Waxoyl...
So... whaddya reckon? Plug those holes when sploshing about, unplug them in the heat of summer?
Body/Sill/Floor plugs and end caps
Ovals:
251 899 185 2/85 - 7/92 Satin Black (01C) 17 x 32 mm
211 809 507 12.5 x 26 mm
Rounds:
803 803 583 B 40 mm
253 857 785 (01C) M10
181 971 908 B 19,5 mm
311 867 235 (01C) CAP 32,2 mm
P.S. Isn't that section open all around the join to the two main longerons, plus the service through-hole. Nice to see the inside in the flesh though Thomas, Tyger's 'seems' alright, but where it slopes up to meet the rear frame behind it, either side, the sloping floor was perforated. Any more detail photos appreciated, BusGoofs or here..
Now I know who had my patented 'box-section de-silting hose vacuum attachment' away at Bristol... and my 3 foot probing rods

Diamond 'corrosion killer' Hell

Seriously, now you've opened it up, got good access, dried it all up, and wire-brushed it all up - go for Eastwoods' Rust Encapsulator - you know it makes sense

Then maybe a yearly Waxoyl...
So... whaddya reckon? Plug those holes when sploshing about, unplug them in the heat of summer?
Body/Sill/Floor plugs and end caps
Ovals:
251 899 185 2/85 - 7/92 Satin Black (01C) 17 x 32 mm
211 809 507 12.5 x 26 mm
Rounds:
803 803 583 B 40 mm
253 857 785 (01C) M10
181 971 908 B 19,5 mm
311 867 235 (01C) CAP 32,2 mm
P.S. Isn't that section open all around the join to the two main longerons, plus the service through-hole. Nice to see the inside in the flesh though Thomas, Tyger's 'seems' alright, but where it slopes up to meet the rear frame behind it, either side, the sloping floor was perforated. Any more detail photos appreciated, BusGoofs or here..
The 80-90 Tech Wikipedia Your 1st port of call

1.9TD Syncro Doka / Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
Syncronaut No. 1
- toomanytoys
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My 2wd seems to collect mud there too.. not in quite the same way, but the holes have been blocked on a couple of occasions..
I suppose I should check the syncro.. and seeming as it has a few smaller holes in odd places where the drains have blocked.. I might be in for a shock!!
and thats apart from the rusty B pillar I already have..
I'll dig out a pic..
I suppose I should check the syncro.. and seeming as it has a few smaller holes in odd places where the drains have blocked.. I might be in for a shock!!

and thats apart from the rusty B pillar I already have..

I'll dig out a pic..
- toomanytoys
- Trader
- Posts: 2868
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 18:37
- 80-90 Mem No: 41
- Location: Boston area, South Lincolnshire
- toomanytoys
- Trader
- Posts: 2868
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 18:37
- 80-90 Mem No: 41
- Location: Boston area, South Lincolnshire
- toomanytoys
- Trader
- Posts: 2868
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 18:37
- 80-90 Mem No: 41
- Location: Boston area, South Lincolnshire
Yep, not nice.. but its all down to that part being replaced a few years abo..
That's true Si, wherever bodywork, welding, replacement panels have been done, you can as good as guarantee it's half-life.
Whilst i think Thomas' right about flushing box section out after wading, I think for most its far too late for that.
Once its like his red one, all you are going to do is re-slurry it all and re wet it, taking weeks to dry again, and never wash it all out.
Once really dry, well into summer, I would rod it to loosen it up and knock and vacuum out. I'm pretty sure I've managed this well enough on one of mine and then initially sprayed in there.
Use thick fencing wire, round the ends off so it doesn't scratch too much, or loop it over. A few different lengths, and a rubber hose (heater hose is about right) on the vacuum wedge tool seems to be the business.
But if there are those large rust flakes in there, like you can see in Thom's photos, then they'll not be coming out and be blocking the vac all the time - then cut the floor open if you're a welder like Thomas.
I'd judge Thomas' to be extra bad, and as he says, waded, mudplugged a helluva lot. The problem with mine was that it had been once or twice early in life but never cleaned, so went in different areas.
We should really build a rust library - I've got a few hundred photos by now

Si's B pillars, interesting. The door pillar access holes down to that dodgy to re-weld plate inside the jacking point - always rod around and vacuum that out too, and where sills meet front and rear jacking points, always seem to go there too.
If there's dust/muck/silt anywhere - there'll be DAMP hanging around in winter too...
Behind panels like wheel arches, if you ever see dry or flaky surface rust, jump for joy, 'cos that's telling you where the problem will occurr - quick wire brush or rotary twist knot, another one of those thowaway brushes (10 for poond, in't £1 shop) and a splosh of Rust Encapsulator at £25/litre! Clean and fill the rear of seams with it too... but must be dry and grease free.
The 80-90 Tech Wikipedia Your 1st port of call

1.9TD Syncro Doka / Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
Syncronaut No. 1
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You ever thought about becoming a Dyno-Rod agent, Clive?
Diamond Hell
Still Syncro, just much fasterer
Still Syncro, just much fasterer
I might have to soon... 
and I'm told it's a very fulfilling occupation

and I'm told it's a very fulfilling occupation

The 80-90 Tech Wikipedia Your 1st port of call

1.9TD Syncro Doka / Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
Syncronaut No. 1
- toomanytoys
- Trader
- Posts: 2868
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 18:37
- 80-90 Mem No: 41
- Location: Boston area, South Lincolnshire