Club 80-90 Forums

I’ve been in correspondence with Mark Pluygers of Dream-Drive in the Netherlands with a view to the most cost effective way to gain a little more torque and power for my 1.9DG T25. His view, which I’m going to discuss with him next week before he goes on holiday is to upgrade to a 2.1 MV or DJ whils...

I’ve no experience but have started to think about using Starlink mini with a roaming account. Costs seem to be coming down rapidly and coverage is going to be better than the 4G/5G network.

I think the DJ and DG cylinder bores are the same. The DJ has a longer stroke and thus slightly larger capacity.

Whilst investigating squeaks and an occasional clunk in the front near side suspension I have discovered that the radius arm cup washers have been fitted the wrong way round. Having owned the van for just 3 months I have no idea when the bushes were replaced but suspect several years ago. Just anoth...

I agree, it doesn’t look like any of the 3 or 4 models of the Autohomes Kamper pop-top that I’ve seen.

This morning I rewired the oil pressure switch - new wires, new two way connector in the engine bay and all is working as it should. Feel reassured that I now have a working oil pressure warning in the cab rather than having the LED disconnected! That’s two odd things I’ve found whilst working on th...

That’s very helpful Steve and explains the grounding of the yellow (high pressure switch) signal cable. Tomorrow, I’ll redo the connections for the low pressure switch.

I should add the reason I can’t locate the 0.9 bar switch is because there is no lead to the switch. The yellow signal wire has been directly shorted to the engine block! The previous owner had a replacement/reconditioned engine fitted and it looks as though they forgot to connect up the high pressu...

I’ve been working on the dash instrumentation on my 1.9 DG engined T25 (1990/91) and found the oil pressure warning LED was removed. On replacing the oil pressure warning light flashes but there is no oil buzzer sound at >2000 rpm. On further investigating I find that both the low pressure switch wi...

I’ve just fixed the flashing coolant level problem on my T25. Check the socket and plug on the sender unit. Mine showed signs of corrosion (blue-green, presumably copper sulphate and/or carbonate). Cleaned up and put back….all working correctly.

I hadn’t given thought to the clock adjuster and am not certain it will interfere as the plane of the tachometer face is the same as the clock. I’ll only know once I offer the tachometer up to the pod. As preparation I’ve removed the binnacle and clock. It looks as though some work has been done on ...

Thanks Rob and Smiffo, it’s very helpful. I’ve managed to find an original petrol tachometer and now need to get hold of a replacement for the blue foil pcb. I’ll probably buy one of the replacement set ups from Slaughter House, Brickwerks or Campervanculture.

Is it possible to simply replace the analogue clock in the dash with an original VG T25 tachometer? Physically obviously yes but does the wiring loom include the necessary wires for the tachometer such that I can simply connect it up to the instrument binnacle foil?

Refer to CJH's pdf on how to mount the regulator. It must be mounted flat down on the board using the mounting hole. The PCB itself then acts as a heat sink. Mica is a good thermal conductor and an excellent electrical insulator. In this application it is not really required. I wouldn’t place mica ...

Mica is a thermal and electrical insulator and not at all suitable for a heat sink. The voltage regulator has to dissipate energy as heat and will need mounting on some form of heat sink. Bolting the regulator to a small aluminium should be okay. Or as twin turbo says a GND copper fill which will ha...