Club 80-90 Forums

I’ve tried to search an answer to this question both here and over at the Samba but find a lot of ambiguous information and am more confused than when I started out! The recomme3nded torque setting for the rear hub nut on the T25 is 500 Nm, then tighten further to fit the split pin. Nowhere is this ...

Thanks Aidan.

I was disappointed that ordering the hub nut from JK they sent the old style with fewer castellations and not the recommended ones that are supplied by Brickwerks.

Thanks!

Does anyone know the thread size for the external thread on the rear stub axle of a T25? I’ve tried a search but can’t find anything here, or elsewhere. It looks to be an M27 but I would like confirmation.

Thanks.

See the discussion here:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... 88&start=0

and the associated photographs. According to one user the Quick Jack sits perfectly on the factory recommended lifting points.
 

Over at ‘thesamba.com’ there are several threads discussing the Quick Jack lifts , and many photographs of T25’s/vanagons being lifted using the system. This is essentially the same as the QuikLift and Sealey lifts marketed in the UK. I think I’m going to give it a go and see how I get on. Expensive...

I’m planning an autumn and winter of work on my T25, much of which will be around new bushes for the suspension, brake servicing, replace fuel lines, new stainless front to aft plumbing for the cooling system etc. and have been giving thought to options for jacking and support. One is to use a Quik ...

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and suggestions. It seems that an appropriate 3/4” breaker bar with an extension should do the job, and a little bit of physics to calculate the lever length appropriate for my body weight to torque up. I’ll let you know how I get on once I’ve started the job. 

I’m about to embark on servicing the rear hubs on my T25 and wondered if there are any recommendations for a torque multiplier to tackle the hub nuts with. There are several on Amazon, mostly Chinese and reboxed so difficult to assess quality with prices ranging from £100 to £300. There is also a Se...

Did you resolve the issue with a leaking thermostat housing? I ask because I’ve just identified and fixed the leak from mine. It wasn’t the housing, pipes, jubilee clips etc., but the ‘o’ ring seals for the temperature switch and sender units. Both seals looked to be slightly undersized in cross sec...

Replacing the ‘O’ rings sealing the sensors has fixed the leak. I also replaced the sensors at the same time since they only cost a few pound each. After I pressure tested the system and all seems okay. The old rings looked a little undersized, notably in terms of cross-section diameter. The old sen...

I’ve now researched the forums. The two units are the temperature sensor and a switch for the manifold heater. They’re sealed with a viton ‘o’-ring and a plastic retaining clip.

 

My 1.9DG has a coolant leak around one of the temperature sensors located on the lower thermostat housing. My understanding is that the 1.9DG engine only uses one of these sensors, the one located at the back of the housing when viewed from the rear of the vehicle. The other sensor, located on the s...

Thanks cobblers. I’ve ordered some 50mm expandable aluminium tubing as you’ve suggested. I assumed they didn’t do much in our climate as I’ve had no issues at all with cold running throughout winter.

Silverbullet, are you sure? https://www.vanagon.org/cylinder-identification/ Suggests otherwise.

A quick question. My 1.9 DG has two hot airs take offs from the cylinder 1 exhaust manifold. These were connected to an air intake module beneath the pillar on the offside, just in front of the rear light cluster, by two 50mm semi-flexible aluminium tubes. These are now corroded, split and don’t con...