
Rear hub castellated nut
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Rear hub castellated nut
Does this have to be a specific torque? because iv checked my haynes manny but can't font the torque settings 

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Re: Rear hub castellated nut
It's 500 Nm - i.e. a 'kin lot!
Two fat blokes and a metre length of scaffolding tube.
Two fat blokes and a metre length of scaffolding tube.
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- Oldiebut goodie
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Re: Rear hub castellated nut
It's in the Bentley which by now you should have a copy of! https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=99764
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Re: Rear hub castellated nut
Early vans with 6 slot axle nut, 350 Nm, late vans with 10 slot, 500 Nm.
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Re: Rear hub castellated nut
One of those cases where..unless you have access to a 3/4 or inch drive torque wrench (very unlikely) it's going to be a guessing game.....one things for sure, this is one very tight nut. I've heard the setting described as 'one 16 stone fatboy swinging on the end of a 6ft piece of scaffold'....about right I would say!
Martin
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Re: Rear hub castellated nut
It doesn't need to be much of a guessing game - if you know your own weight you can soon work out what length of bar is needed and where to stand on it. I know that it seems as though you need double the length to undo them.
A 16 stone fat boy at the end of a six foot pole would give you 1344 lb/ft whereas you only need 360 lb/ft for the ten slot nut.
A 16 stone fat boy at the end of a six foot pole would give you 1344 lb/ft whereas you only need 360 lb/ft for the ten slot nut.
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Re: Rear hub castellated nut
I tend to do them up until I can feel some noticeable resistance on the pole and go for next nearest slot for the split-pin which usually isn't much more. Thats about right - not swing on it like some demented thing
I used a torque wrench when I started out some 25 years ago but you get a feel for the right pressure. It needs to be tight enough to not undo and yet pull everything in the hub up nice and snug - but not so tight you need three men the next time 
As Oldie says, it can feel very tight when undoing them but you're also fighting rust and friction then. Doing them up is a lot easier. I use a 5' pole.


As Oldie says, it can feel very tight when undoing them but you're also fighting rust and friction then. Doing them up is a lot easier. I use a 5' pole.
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Re: Rear hub castellated nut
Oldiebut goodie wrote:It doesn't need to be much of a guessing game - if you know your own weight you can soon work out what length of bar is needed and where to stand on it. I know that it seems as though you need double the length to undo them.
A 16 stone fat boy at the end of a six foot pole would give you 1344 lb/ft whereas you only need 360 lb/ft for the ten slot nut.
And me being a teacher...perhaps I should have been a little more scientific about this and worked out the math like you mate (detention to myself) . lol

Martin
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Re: Rear hub castellated nut
What is the calculation of weight of fat boy to scaffold? Was asleep in that physics I lesson obviously
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Re: Rear hub castellated nut
If you look on the Norbar website there is a calulator, this allows you to use a normal lower range torque wrench with an extension bar. I got a length of inch 1/2 pipe flatened one end and drilled and filed a square hole in it for the wrench, put a large adjustable in the other and with the help of the calculator and a lot pulling that did the job. If you have the right size socket I would use that rather than a adjustable.