Hi there,
I am having starting issues. My T25 1980 2l Aircooled is turning but not starting.
I have replaced the coil today as it appeared that this was the only old part in the ignition system with the rest having been replace by a previous owner.
That hasnt worked so no looking in the distributor now which is an electronic distributor so not sure what I can realy do as there are no points, condenser etc to check. What are the possible issues with the electric distributor that could lead to the symptoms described?
On another note can I just put a conventional system straight on my van? I have read that the electric ignition is more trouble than its worth. Is that anyone experiance or am I best sticking with what I have?
Any opinions welcomed.
Electric or Conventional Distributor
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CovKid
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Re: Electric or Conventional Distributor
Conventional (points) a lot more hassle frankly as they have to be readjusted/replaced and more so if heels on dizzy cam are scored.
You need to tackle this systematically and see if you're actually getting a good spark at plugs rather than go the potentially expensive route of replacing stuff just to find the fault. You'll find on these twin carb setups that any air leaks will make it a pig to start so check for sound hoses and see if there is a lot of movement on throttle flap shafts - any of these can cause difficult starting.
You need to tackle this systematically and see if you're actually getting a good spark at plugs rather than go the potentially expensive route of replacing stuff just to find the fault. You'll find on these twin carb setups that any air leaks will make it a pig to start so check for sound hoses and see if there is a lot of movement on throttle flap shafts - any of these can cause difficult starting.
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Re: Electric or Conventional Distributor
perhaps a location in your profile may help, if your in gloucester i could pop over and take a look!
its a very simple set up the electronic ignition.
simple things to check ,
if you have a poor starter that may sound like its working ok to the untraind eye may actually be sucking to much power from the battery for a spark!
next to the dizzy on the engine block is a wire that is he'earth ' of the ignition .this may look ok , but can be corroded internally . make sure the terminal ohn te wire and engine clean , possibly fit a new terminal
if you follow all the wires the ignition unit has its own loom ,from the coil to dizzy and ignition amp , seperate this group of wires to simplify the job.
look at the coil + should have the black wires on it , feed from ignition (check with tester , 12v with ignition on), 1 to the ignition loom , 1 to carb loom
negative terminal of coil - should have green wire only ( disconnet all oter wires for test puropses)
check these then report back....
its a very simple set up the electronic ignition.
simple things to check ,
if you have a poor starter that may sound like its working ok to the untraind eye may actually be sucking to much power from the battery for a spark!
next to the dizzy on the engine block is a wire that is he'earth ' of the ignition .this may look ok , but can be corroded internally . make sure the terminal ohn te wire and engine clean , possibly fit a new terminal
if you follow all the wires the ignition unit has its own loom ,from the coil to dizzy and ignition amp , seperate this group of wires to simplify the job.
look at the coil + should have the black wires on it , feed from ignition (check with tester , 12v with ignition on), 1 to the ignition loom , 1 to carb loom
negative terminal of coil - should have green wire only ( disconnet all oter wires for test puropses)
check these then report back....
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kevtherev
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Re: Electric or Conventional Distributor
murdobuch wrote:Hi there,
I am having starting issues. My T25 1980 2l Aircooled is turning but not starting.
I have replaced the coil today as it appeared that this was the only old part in the ignition system with the rest having been replace by a previous owner.
That hasnt worked so no looking in the distributor now which is an electronic distributor so not sure what I can realy do as there are no points, condenser etc to check. What are the possible issues with the electric distributor that could lead to the symptoms described?
On another note can I just put a conventional system straight on my van? I have read that the electric ignition is more trouble than its worth. Is that anyone experiance or am I best sticking with what I have?
Any opinions welcomed.
Opinions/advice will be based on what you tell us
the phrase turning but not starting is a bit vague.
So why not tell us what you have done so far...
like..
Have you a spark?
Is the timing correctly set?
Is fuel reaching the carb?
have you checked for air leaks?
just the basic stuff really
AGG 2.0L 8V. (Golf GTi MkIII)
Re: Electric or Conventional Distributor
Hi,
Right then, have checked and there appears to be no earth from the dizzy to the engine casing at all. Doesnt this seem strange after it had been starting before? Is this earth meant to go from the outer dizzy casing straight to the engine casing/tin ware?
From the coil I have;
Negative terminal- Green wire going to dizzy black wire.
Positive terminal- Yellow going to carbs
Black coming from ignition switch
Red to red at dizzy
kevthe rev;
1) No spark.
2) Checked all rubber piping and replaced t piece and elbow between carbs. As far as air leaks are concerned not sure what else to check in this regard.
3) Fuel is definately reaching carbs.
4) Timing had been set by a garage before the issues started (so set about a month ago) but not sure if this could have been knocked out by now. The van hasnt done any more than 100 miles since then.
I have checked all spacings on the plugs with a feeler gauge and noted that the plugs seem ok apart from a small bit of carbing up.
Covkid;
Not sure what you mean by the throttle flap shafts. If you could direct me to these in the haynes i would be grateful.
Many thanks
Right then, have checked and there appears to be no earth from the dizzy to the engine casing at all. Doesnt this seem strange after it had been starting before? Is this earth meant to go from the outer dizzy casing straight to the engine casing/tin ware?
From the coil I have;
Negative terminal- Green wire going to dizzy black wire.
Positive terminal- Yellow going to carbs
Black coming from ignition switch
Red to red at dizzy
kevthe rev;
1) No spark.
2) Checked all rubber piping and replaced t piece and elbow between carbs. As far as air leaks are concerned not sure what else to check in this regard.
3) Fuel is definately reaching carbs.
4) Timing had been set by a garage before the issues started (so set about a month ago) but not sure if this could have been knocked out by now. The van hasnt done any more than 100 miles since then.
I have checked all spacings on the plugs with a feeler gauge and noted that the plugs seem ok apart from a small bit of carbing up.
Covkid;
Not sure what you mean by the throttle flap shafts. If you could direct me to these in the haynes i would be grateful.
Many thanks
Re: Electric or Conventional Distributor
the earth wire is brown and comes from the loom usually out of the grey sheath , dizzy end.
no earth lead between dizzy and engine
no earth lead between dizzy and engine
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bigherb
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Re: Electric or Conventional Distributor
As you say the PO replaced parts we don't know what we are dealing with whether it is still the original system or a replacement distributor with electronic ignition best put a picture up of the distributor.
1982 Camper 1970 1500 Beetle Various Skoda's, Ariel Arrow
Re: Electric or Conventional Distributor
just as a 1st thought , is there a little black box with 2 round connectors at the bottom on the left hand inner wing- as well as the ign amp (which has an ally heatsink ) ? if yes disconnect the 2 plugs , they can plug into each other bypassing the unit . then recheck for a spark
also mark and remove the dizzy. with the ignition on you can spin it by hand (no earth needed) and get a spark. you dont need to crank the engine
the original electronic ignition is a very simple affair
vw used it as it was a maintenace free upgrade which had various advantages
it is a reliable system that give trouble free service for many miles.
unfortunatly when people start playing with things they have little knowlege about things can go wrong or seem very complicated
coils can be interchanged with points/ electronic systems , there are 2 types of leads /caps/ rotor arms for the vans , idel stabiliser units , ignition amplifiers ect.
if people can't see a simple mechanical switch turning on and off the points as the dizzy spins then its presumed to be ' very complicated and unreliable full of electronic gadgets '
you need all the correct data / test equipment in front of you , a basic knowledge of what your looking at and go through things step by step - its a simple system and very easy to test -the dizzy is harder to test but one you have checked all else and every thing is good then just try a replacement dizzy.
also mark and remove the dizzy. with the ignition on you can spin it by hand (no earth needed) and get a spark. you dont need to crank the engine
the original electronic ignition is a very simple affair
vw used it as it was a maintenace free upgrade which had various advantages
it is a reliable system that give trouble free service for many miles.
unfortunatly when people start playing with things they have little knowlege about things can go wrong or seem very complicated
coils can be interchanged with points/ electronic systems , there are 2 types of leads /caps/ rotor arms for the vans , idel stabiliser units , ignition amplifiers ect.
if people can't see a simple mechanical switch turning on and off the points as the dizzy spins then its presumed to be ' very complicated and unreliable full of electronic gadgets '
you need all the correct data / test equipment in front of you , a basic knowledge of what your looking at and go through things step by step - its a simple system and very easy to test -the dizzy is harder to test but one you have checked all else and every thing is good then just try a replacement dizzy.