Getting it back together

[rollercoaster]

The gearbox is now here and I have cleared out the workshop making space to get the van in.
Also cleared some time to work on it, daunted, so theres a fair amount of time looking at it and thinking..
It was probably easier to get out than refit it back in, wish I had made some notes and taken photos.
I may be asking some questions later about thingamybobs or oojamyflips..

Is there a thread on gearbox replacement, I cant find one..

Anyhow there is a great bit in the Wiki about a home made special tool for lifting the gearbox.
Well I made something based on that diagram, with a bit of artistic license, I hope it works:

"jack in the box"





The main advantage I was looking for was to be able to set it down without having to lift it off the jack.
It has a bolt going through the balance point of the jack and the box, that it can wobble about on when its jacked up,
and the box is bolted to its wooden box.
Thinking about also hitching up some kind of safety strap (gearbox to van) if it needs it,
I will be underneath with it, pushing it about, and dont want it to topple over and hit the floor,
even though I may be able to prevent it from being damaged by providing a soft landing on some part of my body..

[jes*b]

Great timing! I will be following and taking notes , good luck

[rollercoaster]

Yes good timing, but your build thread started first, so I will be following your lead and taking notes..
First note for you: mines a Subaru motor, so theres some minor differences!
My CV bolts seem good but just checked BrickWerks and a new set is £7,
And get a new circlip for the thingamybob shaft?
I am wondering about a new rubber boot where the selector shaft enters gearbox..
New propshaft bolts too?
Possibly a new thrust bearing,
Cant really see how to check the life left in it, and the clutch,
is it worth thinking about, or just wait until its a problem,
dont want to go looking for trouble..
Not done any mileage since it was all put together.
Just thought I could hear the release bearing before I stripped it down,
or some slight noise that goes silent when the clutch is pressed anyway.

[PetenAli]

For the cost of it, isn't it worth replacing the clutch and thrust bearing while you have access to it all? At least pull the clutch off and you can measure the thickness of the friction plate.

If you want a hand Tim, give me a bell. I should be free most evenings although this weekend is fully booked.

Pete

[rollercoaster]

Thanks Pete I will.
Clutch release bearing seems fine,
maybe the slight noise was the gearbox mainshaft which I suppose spins away until clutch is released.

The bolts and boots should come tomorrow from BW,
I wonder about the vacuum units,
There are slim soft rubber boots I am replacing, listed,
but mine have tough outers that dont look like the pictures in Bentley..





See they break up into three parts.. is this what other people have?
Is there an alternative like Bentley pictures?

The circlip that holds this unit on..
well as its bolted on as well, should I get a new one?
anyone know the size of it? It doesnt seem that critical as the bolts seem to hold it anyway.

Been cleaning up the tank straps and waxoiling profusely anything I might not be able to get to later.
Generally it is all sound, but thankful of the treatment.
The longer I spend looking cleaning and generally preparing, the easier it appears!

[Aidan]

circlip is 17x1

3 piece boot is correct for late syncro difflock long pin deep bracket set up

put one rubber and the nylon joiner on the vac unit and suck the blue port to extend the pin beyond
put the bracket etc.. on the gearbox then pop the other piece of rubber on the gearbox end where the sleeve is and then offer up the vac unit pin into the hole all the way to the orange boot and drift in the 3mm roll pin to secure, check it's correctly pinned by being able to rotate the vac unit freely, push into bracket gently slipping the rubber boot into the nylon joiner and fit the two long m4 bolts, pipe spigots face down

[rollercoaster]

The bolts came but are too small:



Seems my van may have 16" CVs
Something to do with it being from South Africa..
Has 14" wheels originally I think, 15" presently.

So thats good news in some ways I suppose,
I do want to put the best bolts I can on it,
and then consider the best CV replacement for the future.

[Aidan]

Correct bolts for 108mm drive shafts are M10 multisplines
VW part number N 906 682 01 £1.84 plus vat each

[syncrosimon]

I used a plank of wood to support the engine. That way you can lower the back of the engine to allow room for the gearbox to come up. There is a lot of wiggling envolved.

Is your van a multivan?

If it is I saw one just like it for sale near Truro in 2000 ish.

Simon.

[rollercoaster]

Hmm,
well I'm walking round my local motor factors here and they are not that helpful,

this has been covered before but I am looking for the gearbox oil:

Aiden says " GSF do Carplan 75W/90 semi sythetic which is GL4/GL5 most bigger motor factors sell it too. The old Comma GL4 mineral oil is getting hard to find but the semi improves cold shift esp for 2nd gear."

I havent been down to Halfords to check yet as its out of town.
Does anyone know where to order it from?
There must be somewhere that sells just what we need (delivered) so that it will be here tomorrow!
I was filling my leaking gearbox with GL5 as it was all I could find,
the same manufacturer now lists exactly the same oil as GL4/GL5,
this seems suspicious, they just printed an extra number on the label.
Could I use this "GL5" ?

Same with the 17 x 1 circlip! They have a mixed box but the size jumps from 16 to 18..

Aiden, do you sell the bolts?
Perhaps even pack a circlip in there..

or please reference where they are orderable from.

also I seem to have lost the nut from the selector shaft end.
(this was a fairly normal looking nut, could it be better as a nylock,
as it had no locking washer or anything)

Thanks

[rollercoaster]

Simon
Yes, dont know if this one is easier with the Subaru and the RJES engine mount,
but it seems fairly well balanced and supported for tipping and wiggling.

Its not a multivan, its a caravelle, with ten seats, including the rear facing dicky seat.
It was Syncrospares van for a long time, sign written.

I would love to know some more history of the van.

[syncrosimon]

Oh yes, I know it now, spent a day in it bumping around North Devon.

[silverbullet]

Comma 75W90 to GL4 available at CAF if you've got one nearby, get them to pull the book out from under the counter. Only comes in 1l bottles but reasonably priced IME. Can't say it improved the cold 1-to-2 shift that much even after a full AJT rebuild 4000 miles ago

Not surprised that your bus has got the 16" CV's as both my 2WD SA's (1990 small window and 1995 2.6) have 108mm joints.

PS If it hasn't already been done, the rear foglamp(s) can be re-instated euro-style to get rid of any aftermarket/import bolt-on lamp as the wiring is in the taillamp loom but terminates in the engine bay fuse box (grey/white, single yellow plug) so you need to run a supply from the dash switch to the box. Check that the lamp backplate has the "spring finger" for the bulb centre terminal, it can be retro-fitted to give twin fogs

[Aidan]

Nylock, circlip, washer etc. all in stock, I can order bolts from VW
call during working hours only me and radio 2 (cheers Neil) or a bit of Bob

[silverbullet]

That wasn't supposed to sound critical of Aidan's work I know the gear linkage still needs a bit of attention (cobbler's shoes etc) but they all seem to be heavy first thing esp. when it's cold. Maybe I should try a different oil...