The fan blower has stopped working in my 1984 T25 which is going to be a real pain as the weather turns.
I know that the fuse is fine as it is hte same one that does the windscreen wipers. Has anybody got some tips before I start ripping the dashboard apart to get to the fan?
Fan Blower
Moderators: User administrators, Moderators
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 2673
- Joined: 03 Apr 2007, 12:54
- 80-90 Mem No: 8386
- Location: Nottingham
Re: Fan Blower
Melted switch perhaps....but almost undobtedly because of a seizing or seized motor.
Martin
Martin
1989 California 2.1MV
Re: Fan Blower
I think the switch is ok! Looks like a seized motor then. Has anybody changed one? It looks like a pig of a job
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 1339
- Joined: 20 Jul 2010, 20:54
- 80-90 Mem No: 8552
- Location: Cheddleton, Staffordshire
Re: Fan Blower
It is! search heater on here and you'll get plenty of info
I only lubricated the bearings on mine and its been okay for a year, however in hindsight given how long it took me to do the job I wish I'd replaced the motor which are only about 30-35 quid, I really dont want to have to do it again!
I only lubricated the bearings on mine and its been okay for a year, however in hindsight given how long it took me to do the job I wish I'd replaced the motor which are only about 30-35 quid, I really dont want to have to do it again!

1990 1.9dg tintop....back in the fold.....
- nevill3
- Registered user
- Posts: 996
- Joined: 26 Nov 2009, 16:59
- 80-90 Mem No: 8062
- Location: UK Lake District, Early 1.6D CS now 4 speed gearbox
- Contact:
Re: Fan Blower
My fan was squealing but after following these instructions https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... g#p7473125
I found that after lubricating the bearing all is quiet (For Now!!)
ghost123uk wrote:If your heater is just squeaking / squealing then there is a much easier cure than the dash out method ( = big job)
Take grill off = 3 mins.
Take black plastic rain guard grill (above the rad) off = 3 mins
Drill a pilot hole were the grey dot is marked in this pic =
There is nothing behind the metal for miles around so not to worry about EXACT placement or how deep your drill goes when it breaks through.
Now make the hole as big as you can, I went up to about 3/4 inch with one of those tapered hole expanders on the drill. Again, no worries, make the hole as big as you want, bigger makes the job easier.
Now the tricky bit.
I soldered a 12V 21 Watt bulb onto a long bit of wire and connected it to the battery.
I dangled it in the void by hanging it through the big gap between the top of the metal panel and the bodywork. This a couple of inches above where you drilled the hole. Easier to see and feel for "in the flesh" than to write down or point out in the pic, You will figure it I am sure.
Now, if you look through the hole you drilled, the void will be well lit up by the light.
Now look up a bit and towards the dashboard.
After moving the bulb around a bit and adjusting you line of sight (it is higher up than you might imagine), you can see the end of the heater fan motor, along with the exposed bearing.
Next get an aerosol of you favourite grease, you will need to extend, by quite a lot, the little tube you clip onto the spray head. I used some of that hard black plastic "advance and retard" pipe that goes from the carb to the dizzy.
Now squirt it onto the bearing, perhaps with the fan running to aid penetration.
This is easier said than done, but you will manage I am sure ( I did)
Best to try not to get too much grease everywhere as it will cause muck being drawn in by the fan to get stuck all over the place.
Now stick some masking tape over the hole, put the grills back on and away you go
btw, the clips on my splash guard grill (the smaller inner one) broke but I found 4 small tie wraps made a very neat alternative fastener.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I found that after lubricating the bearing all is quiet (For Now!!)