Buzzer of Doom part two

[zinfandel]

Ok changed oil filter, The old one was a Fram and I read on brick-yard that someone had problems with this type filter, changed the high pressure switch and new oil.
Started the engine no problems, took for a short trip no buzzer
Came back to sort slight water leak, took for long run. Buzzer came on then off then on, I then found that by blipping the throttle then I can make the buzzer go off.

Came back flushed the engine and changed oil and filter took for a run same again when the buzzer comes on ether increase speed or blip the gas and off it go's
engine runns fine other wise not over heating,

[Hacksawbob]

electrical fault? cleaned the contacts in the dash?

read this?
http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.p ... l_pressure

[Grun]

zinfandel,

If t'were mine, I would be doing an oil pressure check with a slave pressure gauge plumbed into the engine. Or thinking of a dash mounted gauge with a remote sender.

H-ynes says Oil pressure at 80C and 2000rpm 2.0 bar minimum.
Thats for 1.9 and 2.1 watercooled petrol all versions.

Sounds rather as if yours could be verging on the oil pressure switch limit of 0.9bar at around 2000rpm.

At least you would know what your oil pressure really was, and then, base further plans on that knowledge.

Mike

[zinfandel]

I think the same Grun, Ill order oil pressure sender hose from Brck-yard,
is it best to fit it to the high or low pressure switch? to get the best reading ? as for some reason I dont have trouble getting to the high switch by the water pump, took 30 sec to remove and replace the switch yesterday, and I could fit the pipe and Secure it to the tinwear?
pete

[Grun]

Zinfandel,
Its not something I have had to do (YET!) on these engines.
As far as I can make out there would be no difference in the pressure switch tapping used if you are just doing the gauge as a temporary fitting. Although I have no schematic of the oil system to confirm this.

If you mean a dashboard gauge and remote sender, then the high pressure one near the water pump would seem to be right, and you would still have the the low pressure switch to give you the light. Although you could reverse the pressure switches and the wiring, if more convenient, I would have thought.

Are you going to tee the high pressure switch into the gauge line? Otherwise you will have to deactivate the buzzer in some way, perhaps by earthing as before. Yes make sure the hose is secured clear of the water pump/alternator belt, of course.

There must be someone on the forum, who has done something similar and can give you better advice than me .

I haven't looked in the engine bay for a few months now! Except through the number plate hatch. Last trip was France early April!

Mike

[trickydicky]

I had something like this with mine on the old engine. After I refitted the dizzy I neglected to remove the vacume advance when I set it back up causing the timing to be to far retarded (advanced)
The engine didn't overheat on the guage but the oil sure did cook. 10 mins with the stobe light, fresh oil, job sorted and pullin like a train again
As before if you want to borrow the strobe give us a call or P.M. me
Good luck

[HarryMann]

H-ynes says Oil pressure at 80C and 2000rpm 2.0 bar minimum.
Thats for 1.9 and 2.1 watercooled petrol all versions.

and about 0.9 bar below 2000 rpm, for the low pressure one, depending which sender is in there..

This alternate buzzing above/below 2000, got rid of by blipping is classic hot oil > low oil pressure if its after a fast run when slowing down with revs just comng down through 2000...

Frothed oil, overfilled? or engine is definitely losing oil pressure (you'll soon know with the test gauge in high press port). Aidan (Beaker) in Warrington has a test gauge setup, if you're anywhere near he's very helpful

Check the oil cooler/heat exchanger sandwich between filter and housing if it has one. Clean out and check its water lines for corrosion blocking (mine was even bypassed when I bought it).

Maybe go up to 20W-50, but don't rev it high or hammer it till its thoroughly warmed up...

[zinfandel]

Checked the timing with strobe/vacume off spot on, would'nt think hot oil as the run was only about 5miles before buzzer started, have orderd oil pipe from brickyard and will connect sender to high pressure switch with gauge in cab, then see whats going on.
pete

[Simon Baxter]

Don't pi$$ about anymore, just check the pressure with a pressure guage, if your in any doubt about the oil pressure just check it!
You could spend ages, and a fortune on this and that to find at the end your engine is knachered, just check the pressure and take it from there.

[lance]

THANKS TO EVERYONE for help on this mainly grun,had to take van for mot today they sorted buzzer out ,it had problem in dash and not main wiring ,cost me £40 half of the price of main dealer did for my last van,any way thanks to all

[zinfandel]

Funny that took my van for MOT today passed only advise on drivers seat belt, fraying .
Driving the van home expecting the buzzer to say hello at some point, but no so went the long way home via Bristol and M5 no buzzer.
Now not that I am suspicious but stopped and disconnected the high pressure lead not earthed buzzer wakes up and say hi.
Earthed and off it went, reconnected and drove home in peace
Will fit oil gauge anyway as pipe from Simon came in post today (with sticker) so thanks for all the replies Iv learnt a lot about the workings of the engine ect.

Isn't this what the club is all about

Thanks all in particular Grun

Pete

[Grun]

Holly, Zinfandel (Pete),

Thank you for the feedback. I am sure everyone in the club likes to know the outcome of the various setbacks that we go through, and we all stand to learn from each others experiences.

Let us know the result of your pressure testing Pete.

Cheers.

Mike

[ghost123uk]

This alternate buzzing above/below 2000, got rid of by blipping is classic hot oil > low oil pressure if its after a fast run when slowing down with revs just comng down through 2000...

Humm - I will be watching this thread for developements as I tend to agree with "HarryMann" - the fact that the high pressure switch is re-set by blipping the throttle ( thereby increasing the oil pressure ) is a sympton of worn bearings rather than any wiring fault.

Hope I am wrong of course for your sake zinfandel !!

btw - the reason I will be watching, is mine has just started to occasionally do just the same

I will do a filter and oil (20-50) change and keep my fingers crossed

I live near to Warrington, so if ness, I will try and contact the afformentioned Adrian, for a pressure test.

[HarryMann]

Ghost,

Well, those were my thoughts, but didn't want to be the pessimist or bearer of bad news... every time those symptons were apparent on both petrol and diesel it has appeared to be low oil pressure, either measured with a gauge, or proven with a blown engine.

Aidan is Beaker on here and very helpful if you are near to Warrington.

[ghost123uk]

Aye and a a keen, experienced home mechanic, the amount of times when faced with the old oil light proble, and the owner has said to me "could it just be the sender at fault" and I have replied, with a wry smile, "Nah sorry mate, they hardly ever go wrong, your looking at a replacment engine mate"

Now I find myself in this situation and asking myself " I wonder if it's the sender, or the filter ? "

I reckon I must be realistic and start thinking about what engine to use when it blows !!

Anyways, I will find beaker, just to find out for sure...

Thoughts anyone ? ( read that as "am I right in thinking as above" - desparation creeping into my mind and bank balence !! )