Fan blower replacement

[pocolow]

I have this unenviable task as the fan finally gave up last week after three weeks in France. I'm ok with all the dash removal, but can I remove the fan without disconnecting all the hoses to the heater matrix ?( and thus all the malarkey bleeding the system) ..Any tips/advice greatly received.

Many thanks Mark

[lloydy]

think emma did a picture thread on how to do it, dont think you have to break into the coolant. I have to do the same thing myself, not looking forward to it, i've put it off for 11 months so far......................

[jimpainter]

I think it may be possible to remove the clips with the casing in place. Not too sure though. You could always clamp both the heater hoses so not to lose loads of coolant.

[New Kentish Campers]

? Not too sure you need to to touch that bit; I did my fan motor repair when I had the dashboard out out, and I never touched the 'wet' part of the system. I removed the joint clips that held the two halves of the heater box, ran a sharp chisel though the welded plastic bits and both halves then separated ok. I then fixed the seized motor, tested it across a 12v battery to make sure it worked ok, and then re-assembled everything. job done

[KINGPRAWN]

no need to mess with anything watery!.....its such a cow of a jos why oh why would you not fit a new one when they only cost £35 ...i would have gladly paid anyone £200 to do it for me!!! the case that holds the blower has lots of pesky little clips that are best slid sidways to remove them ..and there is always one more that you cant see!..when you have got it all back together check EVERYTHING works. didn't ckeck my lights before we left for our hols, but with the help of the good folk here found one earth tag had come off!..good luck!..expect screws to twist off!

[jimpainter]

? Not too sure you need to to touch that bit; I did my fan motor repair when I had the dashboard out out, and I never touched the 'wet' part of the system. I removed the joint clips that held the two halves of the heater box, ran a sharp chisel though the welded plastic bits and both halves then separated ok. I then fixed the seized motor, tested it across a 12v battery to make sure it worked ok, and then re-assembled everything. job done

I stand corrected

[dansimpson]

As per KINGPRAWN, I've done this once and lub'd me bearings, but as its such a pig of a job I sooooo wish i'd changed the motor for £35 ish

£200 to get someone to do it?? Cheap at half the price methinks

[Plasticman]

Well of course it would be cheap at half the price
mike

[pocolow]

Thanks for the tips everyone, a new motor is on order from Brickwerks (£32)...just got to pick my day now.

Mark

[Plasticman]

just a day i hear a long weekend may be better suited
M

[supergalaxy]

I have the fan blower problem on my loverly T25 and want to put off dealing with it for as long as possible. (Though annoyingly it DOES work sometimes!!??)

I was just wondering if it would be possible to install a 12volt panel fan of the right size somewhere in the system ( like maybe somewhere half way along one of the duct pipes ) that is easier to get to than doing the full job. Has any one ever done this successfully? Also, is a non operational blower fan an MOT failure, as it forms part of the de-mister arrangement on the vehicle?

I suspect that after stripping out all the dashboard and steering column and so on, that mine will probably work with a little squirt of WD40, Is it possible to give it that squirt without all the major upheaval?

[ghost123uk]

I suspect that after stripping out all the dashboard and steering column and so on, that mine will probably work with a little squirt of WD40, Is it possible to give it that squirt without all the major upheaval?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... ng&start=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I did the hole drilling thing to get at the bearing, in fact I drilled 2 holes, one to look through and one to get the thin tube up to the bearing.

I used a bit of that stiff advance / retard tubing fastened to the aerosol tube with the advance retard rubber sleeving

It is pretty essential to have an indicator bulb soldered to the end of a bit of wire, hanging inside that void from the gap at the top, so you can see what you are doing.

As mentioned on that Samba forum (and I think by Mr Baxter) this is not a proper cure, but if it works for a year or 2 then hey (It worked so far on mine, though I did have to re-do it recently, no big deal - used some more suitable lube this time = moly grease on a stick !!)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Ermies thread on doing it properly = https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=76444" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[New Kentish Campers]

I suspect that after stripping out all the dashboard and steering column and so on, that mine will probably work with a little squirt of WD40, Is it possible to give it that squirt without all the major upheaval

Personally, I'd avoid using WD40 as it will eventually dry out and you will be back to square one. Instead, try using a light oil, such as 3-1 or similar to free the bearings up so they spin nicely. I hear what others say about replacing but I chose to repair mine as it wasn't that bad to begin with and I had the dashboard out anyway to repair the rot under the screen rubber seal. Had it been in a bad state then I'd have replaced it, no arguments there.

I would also suggest that you hook the newly lubed motor across a 12v battery and let it run for a little while and listen for any expensive sounding noises; if it makes the slighest misfire, replace it. If all's well, re-oil it and try again, and hopefully that will do the trick.

[supergalaxy]

Thanks for those replies folks, There are some clever people in this brilliant club of ours! I'll give it a go.