Oil Pressure / Engine Reconditioning.

[hokeryx]

Last year had my engine (1.9 water cooled) reconditioned in the hope of sorting out a low oil pressure problem. Only made a minimal difference to the pressure (from about 27/28 psi at 2000 rpm up to 29/30 psi - the minimum recommended by VW). Took it back in under the warranty but they weren't able to fix the problem. Here's the report of the work they did:

"With regard to the oil pressure on the engine we have done the following this time:

We have taken engine out and stripped it completely down because the crankshaft is the very last part to come off the engine. The bearings come out of the engine were in good condition. They were not damaged in any way.

The crankshaft was reground to lesser tolerance than what is recommende and attempted to rebuild the engine with that. Unfortunately when the builder tried to turn the crankshaft; it would not turn. The crankshaft was taken out and ground to top limit and this time it was turning ok. The engine was rebuilt with new undersize bearings and gaskits.

That is what has been done this time.

As I mentioned when you collected the vehicle I spoke to some of my contacts in the trade and agreed that we replaced what has to be replaced including new bearing, oil pump oil pressure relief valve plunger. One of the possibilities is fracture in the block.

What I can offer is to extend the warranty for six months from now since the original warranty is run out recently. The other option is to have advise from an independent garage to what is the problem / or if we missed something and we would be happy to replace or repair the faulty part."

Can anyone help? How likely is it that the problem is a cracked block? What else could be causing the problem? Should I accept the offer of an extension to the warranty or should I go for the independent inspection - not clarified with them yet who pays for this - any advice gratefully received.

Thanks.

[kevtherev]

Where is the pressure being measured from?

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Looks like you might need the case line bored, to get all the bearings sitting nicely.

This would entail another complete re-build.

As long as your oil pressure is holding up,( why not fit a gauge), and the engine is running sufficiently cool. then just drive the thing

Test : after a good run remove the dipstick , wipe clean and test temp with finger. I should be hot, but not hurt

Maybe run a thicker grade of oil in summer

If the pressure does start to drop, add Wynns (or similar) oil extender.

Invest in a better engine for a future transplant.

Cordialement,

[hokeryx]

Not sure where the pressure was measured from (sorry bit of a novice). Here's a quote from the report from the garage that did the test:

”Check oil pressure at request of customer. Minimum oil pressure spec = 2bar @ 2000rpm @ an oil temp of 80°c Vehicle attached to Sun DGA 1800 in regards of oil temp measurement and engine speed. Oil pressure measured at slightly below 2bar @ 2000rpm @ 80°c Advise oil pressure below minimum specification, suspect internal problem with engine. Advise oil pressure switch wiring routed incorrectly - rectified.”

[kevtherev]

It would be interesting to know where it was taken from.... and what oil grade is being used

[tencentlife]

Waste of work I'm afraid, you shouldn't take those book specs that literally. And the OP couldn't be measured that accurately anyway, it'd be hard to find a gauge with a margin of error much less than 2psi. Minimum spec as a rule of thumb is 10psi/1krpm, and quite a bit less can not only be tolerated, it's more the norm with these. You're well in excess of that as it is. Oh, and there are only two places you could measure the OP and it makes no difference one or t'other.

Sorry to tell you this too late but it's my opinion that they did that work for nothing, but look at the bright side, you know the bottom end was OK! I like a little more OP myself but it's mainly that I don't like the oil too hot. If I had 27 psi hot I would say I had a pretty tight little engine, at least OP-wise. And for the record, this very engine is my stock in trade, some people here know that.

[hokeryx]

Thanks everyone for the replies. Much appreciated. Sounds like it's probably not worthwhile having any more work done on the engine, so I reckon I'll take 'em up on the extended warranty offer.

Just one supplementary query if you don't mind: While I can live with the idea that the OP is a little low I'm not sure I can put up with the infernal buzzing from the OP warning system; I'm guessing it's pretty straightforward to disable that but would it be equally simple to fit pressure gauge (just in case) or would I be better off just getting it checked say once a year?

Thanks again for the reply, never fail to be impressed by how helpful people are on forums like this.

[sarran1955]

As long as your oil pressure is holding up,( why not fit a gauge), and the engine is running sufficiently cool. then just drive the thing

There are all sorts of aftermarket gauges, VDO is good. They wont give a calibrated reading , but you'll be able to see performance while driving.

I only run aircooleds, but I think the BOD modification involved wire cutters, a hammer,

.....and maniacal laughter


Cordialement,