Hi
I'm havin a problem with getting cold air in my VW atlantic. It permenantly blows warm air even when switched to cold on the matrix. I checked the fusebox and the number 13 fuse was missing so I put a 20amp in and it blew straight away, i'm guessing the previous owners had a problem with it before and removed it rather than getting the problem fixed properly. Anyone had the same problem??
lee
Fresh air blower fuse blown
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Re: Fresh air blower fuse blown
It sounds like two problems.....one: the fan blower motor is seized up and so blowing fuses. This is a dash out job to either un-seizing of the motor or fit new (motors are about £38.00)
Second: I'm guessing as I've not seen them but a cable operated water valve? which controls coolant flow through the heater matrix or the mechanism which moves the heater flaps...needs looking at to investigate correct movement and shutting of flaps/valve.
Martin
Second: I'm guessing as I've not seen them but a cable operated water valve? which controls coolant flow through the heater matrix or the mechanism which moves the heater flaps...needs looking at to investigate correct movement and shutting of flaps/valve.
Martin
1989 California 2.1MV
- ewenmaclean
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Re: Fresh air blower fuse blown
Cable operated water valve exactly! Impressive guessing if you've never seen one! There's a thread on exactly that problem here:
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=87735" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
could be the valve, or could be just the cable has come loose.
I second the diagnosis on the motor, but you might be very lucky and find it's a short with the switch itself or nearby - worth testing this first by removing the levers and heater panel. If you have to take the dash out to get to the motor or the resistors (another possible reason for shorting) then you get a chance to do lots of stuff while you're there - especially clean out the matrix itself, and tidy up any wiring and even put a bit of sound proofing in.
It is possible to lubricate the bearing of the heater blower from the front by drilling a small hole in behind the front grill, but it's only worth doing this once it's working.
Ewen
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=87735" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
could be the valve, or could be just the cable has come loose.
I second the diagnosis on the motor, but you might be very lucky and find it's a short with the switch itself or nearby - worth testing this first by removing the levers and heater panel. If you have to take the dash out to get to the motor or the resistors (another possible reason for shorting) then you get a chance to do lots of stuff while you're there - especially clean out the matrix itself, and tidy up any wiring and even put a bit of sound proofing in.
It is possible to lubricate the bearing of the heater blower from the front by drilling a small hole in behind the front grill, but it's only worth doing this once it's working.
Ewen
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Re: Fresh air blower fuse blown
ewenmaclean wrote:Cable operated water valve exactly! Impressive guessing if you've never seen one! There's a thread on exactly that problem here
To be honest I've seen plenty of these on other VW models around that era and as they all tend to use generic parts it was a bit more than a guess.....however, I wouldn't have a clue where it is fitted on a T25.
It might also be worth noting that the 3 speed switch can melt so this and the terminals going to it may need changing also. But the fact remains, the partial or total seizing of the blower is the cause of this fault as well.
Martin
1989 California 2.1MV
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Re: Fresh air blower fuse blown
Mine isn't seized but it'll still blow fuses on a fairly regular basis. I figure its the sudden start of the motor or theres some leakage in the windings. Be nice if there was a replacement motor that could get up to 'arctic blast' speed - I'd buy one of those. 

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