Clutch cylinder set up, is it different from a 2wd?

[bikermike87]

Hello all,

Quick question....
Is there anything different about the set up for the clutch on a syncro (compared to 2wd). I'm thinking that the lines may run differently?

I've lost the use of my clutch on my 2.1 dj 1991 syncro. However, when the engine had time to cool down, it started working again. This make me think there is a leak on the clutch fluid and it contained moister (possibly heating up and thinning out the fluid). The pedal doesn't feel that soft, certainly not noticeable..

I had a look at the master cyclinder and noticed there was some clutch fluid on the bottom of the cyclinder, I'm planning on changing this. Does anybody have a good reference point for this, like a haynes manual. The haynes is 185 miles away on my other van
I've found some instructions on here, but none with pictures

Anyway, do I need to make any special considerations with a syncro?

Thanks

Michael

[Aidan]

if you appear to loose clutch, ie it is difficult to select gear when hot then it is usually the spigot bearing binding on the input shaft, box out job, do oil change and clutch at same time

[bikermike87]

if you appear to loose clutch, ie it is difficult to select gear when hot then it is usually the spigot bearing binding on the input shaft, box out job, do oil change and clutch at same time

Would you recommend changing the master cylinder first to address the leak?

I'm certainly not capable of getting the box out etc just yet. I'm feeling a big bill coming on

[zillertalsyncro]

Hello Bikermike

First you have to find the leak at the fluid system. If there is fluid at the master cylinder, it can come from the seal where the tube/pipe from the fluid tank gets into the cylinder. If that seal is not leaking, the master cylinder is defect. You don't need any manual if you can count to ten Just open the two screws (13) at the cylinder after you plugged out the tube/pipe from the tank (catch the fluid ...) and the pipe to the clutch. You should mark the position of the old cylinder. Then change it, mount it and fix it in the same position of the old one. This is necessary to adjust the pedal - it can be necessary to adjust it afterwards if the clutch doesn't work properly.

Then fill the tank with new fluid and bleed the brake and the clutch. You can do this at the very first, before changing the master cylinder. This doesn't take long and you only need new brake fluid.
If the fluid in the pipe is old, it has too much water in it (sorry for my English), the fluid makes bubbles and the pressure won't reach the clutch (same as for old brake fluid ...). The fluid at the brakes is changed more often, but the fluid in the pipe to the clutch gets older and older ...

Also take a look at the cylinder next to the clutch.

If you have the problem after a fast highway ride, changing oil of the gearbox could (!) help.

If the problem exists after this procedure, you should put out the gearbox and check all the moving parts at the clutch, as Aidan recommendet.

Also see the PM with the link ...