Club 80-90 Forums

Really wanted to replace the sill side panel drivers side (RHD) a long time ago but never got round to it, Now it has to be done.

There appears to be only two types available the ones for the LHD van (Heritage and Schofield) which will require a bit cut of it. The other is (JK etc) where there is no fake seam accross it. There is only a little bit of metal along the top lip to go into the body crease where the LHD type panel bends again vertically. What would be easier to make look neat after welding and filler.??

Also (JK etc) panels dont have the flanges to spot weld on either side, what is easier,cut to size then weld right angles on or cut the panel and fold it over 90 deg? just thinking of the finished look down the seam.

Jk dont sell the panel with the seam anymore, where Heritage sells both types, maybe would prefer the fake seam, but want whatever is going to be the nicest to work with.

If anyone has experience of this i would really appreciate it as i now have to pull my finger out and get it sorted.

Thats what the WIKI is for. Always look there first:

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ar ... outer_sill" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ar ... chen_panel" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers Covkid i did look at that but was wondering what people think between the panels, JK etc only being a small lip to go into the crease i was wondering if it would be harder to get it to look nice when finished. The panel on Wiki goes up vertical again thurther into the crease.

Just desperate to get it looking nice when fitted.

Hi i purchased the JK sill panel a few months ago, it did have the fake seam ,i had to cut about 20mm off the length and make up some flanges. I did a couple of tac welds where it joins the swag line and then welded it up from the inside.The panel was quite good quality, compared to there flimsy arch repair panels.

Ian

Got mine from Hadrians. I prefer it without that horizontal seam line - looks right and any water just washes straight off. Anyway, hopefully the WIKI articles will help you understand the construction and how to fit it.

Same here with th JK panel. Had one a couple of months ago and had the seam pressed in but had to shorten it and make flanges. No biggy though.

problem with fitting the oversill is that it covers the rotten area but doesnt really complete the structural integrity of the sill,
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 6&start=45" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

mike

Thanks for the replies its a great help, getting a bit worried looking at Micks link hope its not to bad when i cut the panel out.
Question for Mick, looking at page 1 of the link repairing around the sliding door runner, i take it at no point you had to remove the runner from the body, on mine looking under the door runner welded to the panel it has bad rust and was hoping to patch it from outside then going behind the runner into the inside of the van. Although its rusty nearly the full lenght. Dont fancy my luck getting it back on in the same place.

If its gone on the outside the floor will probably be rotten as well. Replace the floor and it should give you more rigidity. Never had a problem with flexing or rigidity myself.

Well in thst instance I didnt need to remove it but have done many times, I understand your concern regarding realignment but its not hard if you think about it, I would use a strip of sheet metal and bend it to hook under the runner at the front and take it up to the window aperature/aperture? well whatever and bend it to fit flush and cut it off level with the top of window hole, do same at rear, anything that will help you align it, drill the spots out and when it comes to refitting hold in place with the straps if thats the way you done it and clamp these to the window frame with grips, when your happy tack it at both ends and try it, when your dead happy weld it. sorry hard to explain but dead easy to do or show in person.....

As your strippinng it out you will see how its put together, Its always worth trying to replicate the manufacturers way as they dont form boxes, folds lips etc for the good of their health, sheet metal forms gain most of their rigidity from just this.

Regarding the sill area,
I posted up the link to show you the option of doing it the proper way as per the original, not saying there is anything wrong with using a wrap over section as in the real world it wouldnt in my opinion effect anything pertinent.

If you end up going down the wrap over bit after making good the inner floor if shot then at least its one less seam to worry about in the future.
mike