Seized Calipers

[bmouthboyo]

OK so following MOT failure on NS caliper seizing I have removed it today:




As you can see 7 years of being sat idle has got to these pretty bad.

The pistons do move but one does not contract at all (inner) and the other needs a LOT of force and only moved slightly.

I have tried the airline method in the Haynes manual and no luck, I plugged it back into the brake pipe and they extended but wouldn't go beyond certain point.

Any help answering the following would be amazing

[*]Do I definitely have the TEVES calipers?
[*]Is there anything else I can do to fix this one?
[*]I assume I must replace both calipers at same time to stop braking imbalance?
[*]Where is the best place to buy these calipers (terms of cost / quality)?
[*]Would new calipers come with all the pistons, nipples, rubbers etc?
[*]On Brickwerks they only list ATE or Girling calipers, what would I replace with?

Thanks for massive help so far

[kevtherev]

check out VW Heretage, they do early calipers I'm sure
GSF .. have you tried them?


that caliper is shagged mate

[bmouthboyo]

Think I am going to replace with:

Calipers from VW Heritage X 2 = £181.90
http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_act_shop.p ... try_GB.htm

Back plates from Brickwerks X 2 = £37.08
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... gory_id=47

Discs from Brickwerks X 2 = £65.52
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... gory_id=47

Total £284.50 Ouch!

At least this way I will have peace of mind.

Anyone have any other suggestions on parts? Was thinking wheel bearings whilst there but I don't think they are a problem so is it worth it?

Thanks

[kevtherev]

I do... as getting the inner races out can be an issue

[xpress]

The piston faces and bores would have to be rust free and no pits after a quick polish and I would doubt this would happen since the dust boots look like they're missing on your brakes.

[maximillion]

a bit late i am sure, but just had one go on mine, £90 for recon and swap from gsf

[Ian Hulley]

The disc centers have grooves inside them for a punch to access the fixed races, not hard if you take your time

Ian

[t3trooper]

throw them away, get some new ones for safetys sake, dont scrimp on safety

[Ian Hulley]

for safetys sake, dont scrimp on safety

What, you mean like jacking a 2 tonne van up with a 1 tonne trolley jack and 2 Haynes manuals !

Ian

[bmouthboyo]

Thanks for all the advice guys, ended up replacing both callipers with new ones from VW Heritage, £90 each so not too bad and nice to have peace of mind.

Passed MOT yesterday Chuffed to bits.

Thanks

[xpress]

ian's got eagle eyes there, never noticed that!

i would say that i didn't see the piston faces in that pic to really make a decent judgement, also the caliper walls.

if people took these apart once a year and cleaned them up, and replaced the fluid every couple years, you wouldn't have to chuck them in nearly as much!

[Plasticman]

for safetys sake, dont scrimp on safety

What, you mean like jacking a 2 tonne van up with a 1 tonne trolley jack and 2 Haynes manuals !

Ian

I noticed that, better than bricks or blocks? it was the title of the hynes that I noted, speaks volumes....
mike

[xpress]

i use a 10 tonne bottle jack taking most of the strain and the factory jack on a jacking point as backup, AND usually a big axle stand too! (can't be too careful!)

[xpress]

with age these girling calipers seem to suffer from rust under the dust boot, and the outside of the caliper wall after the seal, even if you get it off, once it gets that way, it tends to come back again and you can bet it doesn't help with piston sticking. best to get them apart once a year and keep them clean and check dust boots are intact.