Syncro 4&4 Discussion and Q&A last answered over 2 years ago.
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some maye remember i have an 88 panel syncro DJ which ive had for yonks. a good few years back i pulled both heads, pistons and liners and re gasketed the lot with new.
i recently bought a stainless exhaust off mr Baxter and set about stripping the old one today, also pulled the push tod sheilds off as they are knacked!
the RHS head is weepy round the rubber - the LHS is bone dry
it doesnt use any water so i dont know whether to pull that head and re do it or not - i remember what a pig it was before pulling the gidgeon pins through the water pipe hole to do a propper job.
I wouldnt put anything else in.. and changing the coolant isnt going to fix it now IMHO..
K seal might give you another year or more, just keep aneye on the coolant levels..
Also I have used the "blue" stuff for past 10 years and my rebuilt engine in the caravelle doesnt leak... The syncro has blue in it and isnt leaking (6+ years, as it had blue in it when i got it)
De min water is better to use and very important if you live in a hard water area.. DO NOT use "softened" water though.. but we are talking about a 20 odd year old cooling system so there is already a lot of deposits and corrosion in there..
Make sure you use a good concentration, from an empty system you really want 8-9L of neat antifreeze in there.. (if it recomends a 50/50 mix for severe weather) some say you can use less but the anti corrosion factor goes down a lot... of course if you use "ready to use" the system needs draining well...
ive decided to pull the head and liners - just bought a kit of mr B so i will strip it down tomo - done it before so i will do it again its worth doing right i think.
btw - obviously there will be corrosion to the head surface - do you think its ok with the sealant on or would you treat it with something else?
Syncrobaz wrote:Mr Baxter's kit's complete, no need for extra sealant, but why do you need to disturb the liners ??
Because they are always stuck to the head, and the seals are always flattened, seems daft to go to the effort of pulling the engine out, taking the heads off and skimping on taking the barrels off to change the bottom seals.
You'd be gutted if you rebuit it and got cooling system water in your oil right? all for the sake of another hour or so.
m3nutter wrote:ive decided to pull the head and liners - just bought a kit of mr B so i will strip it down tomo - done it before so i will do it again its worth doing right i think.
btw - obviously there will be corrosion to the head surface - do you think its ok with the sealant on or would you treat it with something else?
If the jacket sealing faces of the heads are pitted, you can clean up really well and use a smear of chemical metal (other brands available) to fill the pits.. just need to make sure its nice and flat on application or after....
Syncrobaz wrote:I understnd the theory but when removing the barrels you must glaze bust them and fit new piston rings ??? Nothing's easy in this world !!??
Well you dont have to of course if the exisiting rings are well within gap spec.. but if fitting new rings then you must de glaze and make sure there are no ridges at the top and bottom of stroke as the new rings will snag and break...
head is very pitted as i suspected - interested in cleaning up and chemical metal thogh - i also have some merc sealant that they use on everyhthing, sumps the lot, goes off a bit in ten mins but never totally and is heat resistant - wonder is thats better than the sealant in the kit?
its worth doing right i think.
