split rear break pipe

Post by **"WEAZLECHIN"** » 15 Jun 2006, 20:53

i know this maybe impossible, but, does anyone know the length of the pipe and the size of the nuts for the rear brakes, the one that runs the length of the van. took it for mot today was not impressed by the brake fluid on the examiners floor.....

Post by **Ivorblueun** » 15 Jun 2006, 21:04

the connectors are m10x1 and the pipe length is about 2.9m should be able to get a 7m length and ten connectors for a tenner on ebay inc postage

Post by **TechtroT25** » 15 Jun 2006, 21:07

Had to do this meself for me mot took the pipe off and took it to me local motor factors who made a pipe up for me it is a awkward job as the pipe runs above the fuel tank along the chassis rail it can be done without dropping the tank as i said just awkward

Post by **"WEAZLECHIN"** » 15 Jun 2006, 21:12

thanx chaps.. didnt expect a reply on this one either!!

Post by **kevtherev** » 15 Jun 2006, 21:19

Oh ye of little faith....let this be a lesson..

Ive yet to see a Q that foxes this lot!

Post by **Tex Ritter** » 16 Jun 2006, 10:22

If you are still not sure of the length, email me and I'll measure the old one I have in the garage, this will give you the exact length (including bends etc) of the original pipe. The fittings are bog standard male.

Tex Ritter

Post by **oldiguana** » 16 Jun 2006, 13:46

jusy had the same trouble myself on the mot,all 7 brake pipes failed but didnt fail on welding????,ive already got a flareing tool so bought a roll of brake pipe and all the ends for a tenner...yeeeeeeeaaaah,hardest job was getting the van high enough to do the job as i am a little taller when lying down(if you know what i mean,may post pic later for you all to lasugh at)!.incidentally it failed on all the flexis as well and when i tried tom change rear shoes both back plates fell bits,what a day that was!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Post by **"WEAZLECHIN"** » 16 Jun 2006, 13:59

yeah, got mine 18 inchs off the floor now, got pipe off, off up the car shop so they can make one up. oh and thats another thing.... tried to get rear brake hubs off, err they dont want to come though. any tips, tricks or space age gadjets to help with this ????? the lump hammer insnt even touching the b******s. why has everything got to be a battle? no better still "a war"..

Post by **TechtroT25** » 16 Jun 2006, 14:50

Is it he drums you want off if so have you taken out the 11mm bolts that hold the drum on and released the handbrake daft i know but i am speaking from past experiance

Post by **Aidan** » 16 Jun 2006, 17:02

or the drums are welded to the hubs with rust and brake dust...many many years worth. Bentley procedure is to remove the hubs too, then seperate. You need to undo the 46mm nut to do that, new split pins on reassembly. Good luck.

Post by **"WEAZLECHIN"** » 16 Jun 2006, 20:40

i finally got the drums off, boy did i hit them like i was breakin rocks in a labour camp! (with a lump hammer) it says in the manual a "rubber mallet" oh really.... thats why i dont do haynes. i broke one bleed nipple off "great" i was welded in... ahh

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 20 Jun 2006, 13:10

Tip with undoing bleed nipples that haven't been touched for a long while is to use mole grips to start with - NOT a ring spanner. After that a ring spanner is usually ok. I found that worked 9 times out of ten. Often if you put the ring spanner on first it'll round the nipple off and then you end up using molies anyway. Just bear in mind that mole grips have more leverage if you do them up with a pair - go easy, they only need a gentle push.

Years of working on bugs taught me that if bleed nipples break off then the chances are that the cylinders aren't up to much. As for pipes I fitted copper throughout. Worked out to about £45 but in future years I'll save that in grief and cursing and an eye full of brake fluid.

Come to think of it there were a few things I did when I first got my van to avoid future hassles. Using copper based grease on exhaust nuts for my new exhaust for instance, Takes a sec to put it on but you see how long it takes you to get the nuts off the next time if you don't. You can spend a whole day getting an exhaust off when the previous fitter didn't use copper grease.

Rear brakes I found are best set so they JUST scrape the drums when you put them back on. I still do it that way rather than fiddle with handbrake adjustments.

Post by **"WEAZLECHIN"** » 20 Jun 2006, 19:54

some good tips there, all the bleed nipples are ok except for one IT SNAPPED OFF and left me cursing, a tad.. tomorrow i will try to drill a 3.5 mm hole and get an easy out in there.

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 20 Jun 2006, 20:41

Weigh up the time involved and the possibility of getting foreign matter in the cylinder. Often far simpler to just replace the cylinder - and best done in pairs as a rule. you can use a trace of copper-ease on nipples too if you're careful

Its always the way. We're keen to get these jobs done but just a few extra mins spent ensuring future probs are less likely are well worth it. My day was spent washing the cab carpet in the bath. Took 5 bloomin goes to get it remotely clean - bath full of sand at the end. Then there was a heap of dog hairs in the handbrake mechanism - don't even have a dog!