New break pads

[mrdp]

Hi All, I have just had the rear drums off ( that was fun getting those little blighters off stuck on the hub ,but much tapping pentrating oil and patients they did give up ) all ok but does need a new wheel cylinder one side ( slight fluid in dust seal ,job for tommorow) Then put new pads on the front much easier . Now the only problem the brakes are rubbish ie try to brake hard and SLOWWW down to a stop What is the general concensus do they just need bedding in or could I have done something wrong? I can't think there is any way I have introduced air into the system, just pushed the pistons back and fitted new pads ,the resevoir is up to the max line, thinking it must just be bedding in but a bit surprised they aren't better than they now are.??????

[jamesc76]

did you adjust the rear's up correctly first ?

[mrdp]

They work on the handbrake ok, is it a case of turning the brake adjuster until it starts to bind and thenm back it off a touch?

[jamesc76]

yeah! slacken off the handbrake, then adjust the rear shoes till rub then back off then adjust handbrake cable to take up the slack

[mrdp]

I'll check and adjust to be sure. What do you think to the bedding in theory . most of the braking is done by the front , And they are new pads. The rear are the existing ones as there was loads of life left in them.I did play with the adjuster incase there was a lip stopping the drum coming off ( there wasn't but only knew that once they were finally off) But it was quite a close fit between pads and drums when refitting the drum so think is probably ok...But will check

[colinthefox]

I've just changed my front pads, and they took a good 20 miles of heavyish use to still not-quite bed in on not-badly-worn discs.

[mrdp]

Thanks for that . mine wouldn't lock the wheels if I had to , Were yours like that???? I have only gone round the block a few times!!!!

[riffboy]

Yeah they will take quite a bit of bedding in. Just take her for a blast down a quiet road and do some emergency stops!! You have two uneven surfaces that need to marry in with one another, thats all.

[mrdp]

Well thanks for all the words of comfort I will double check the rear adjusters tomorrow( got one of those brickworks tools ready ) and give it a bit of time to bed in.

[Red Westie]

Hi
A few comments:
The new pads are perfectly flat whilst the worn discs will be the opposite, undulating and groved.
Hammering them hard from new can actually cause the discs to overheat, so not recommeded. This is because all the brake pressure is being applied to a much smaller area, as in: 'high spots' on the disc surface.
Yes they takes ages to bed in properly, a couple of hundred miles should do it.

As others have said, it is very important to properly adjust the rear brake adjusters to minimize foot brake travel.

I would also add that changing the brake fluid should be done every two years as brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs water from the atmosphere.

Early Transporter brakes were adequate at best and so, poor when bedding in or not properly adjusted.

Martin

[billy739]

hi , just seen your post.

if your still having probs i could pop over and have a look?

im in gloucester

[Daisy]

Hi All, I have just had the rear drums off ( that was fun getting those little blighters off stuck on the hub ,but much tapping pentrating oil and patients they did give up ) all ok but does need a new wheel cylinder one side ( slight fluid in dust seal ,job for tommorow) Then put new pads on the front much easier . Now the only problem the brakes are rubbish ie try to brake hard and SLOWWW down to a stop What is the general concensus do they just need bedding in or could I have done something wrong? I can't think there is any way I have introduced air into the system, just pushed the pistons back and fitted new pads ,the resevoir is up to the max line, thinking it must just be bedding in but a bit surprised they aren't better than they now are.??????

Just a thought (and no offence meant ) but where did you squirt the penetrating oil when removing the rear drums, it could be you have contaminated the rear brake shoes.

Good Luck

[mrdp]

Hi All, Just to reply to your last posts. The oil is purley between the drum and the face it sits against with the studs there is none on the pads. I have fitted the new wheel cylinder and bleed it ,adjusted the pads and set the handbrake up. Done about 20 miles or so now and the brake is starting to feel a bit better, so am thinking that it is just bedding in, but thanks very much for the offer of popping round the thought is very much appreciated. I will give them a good few miles and see if they improve further but it feels like they are heading the right way.

[Daisy]

Excellant