7 days in, had my first breakdown!

[chuckle-bus-tom]

Only had the beast seven days and I've broken down already!

1991, 2.1 MV petrol with power steering(I'm new to this type of engine, having been a four year novice of the early DG!)

When I bought the van, Gavin from Buy-a-Camper (top chap!) put a new battery in because the old one had died; seemingly from short journeys and lack of use. I found out today through blocking the A40 westbound in central London that the old battery was probably fine, it's just the alternator that's shagged! The RAC guy got the bushes out of the back of the alternator, and they are pretty small (about 8mm) so I'm hoping that changing them will rectify the problem. However, the battery light didn't come on once, despite all attempts at disrupting the circuit in the engine bay, so I'm guessing the bulb in the dash is gone. Does this have an impact on the circuit in a manner that could affect battery charge?

Also, I have a massive splatter of oil coming from the filler tube, and dripping off the heatshield down onto the front engine mount. I'm guessing this suggests a build-up of oil pressure in the system forcing oil back out of the filler tube, so intend on starting with an oil breather pipe replacement. The oil was changed prior to my collection, although was well over-filled, and with very thin synthetic oil, so I was thinking it may be this that has caused oil problems? I've had intermittent oil light and buzzer (not always together) warnings, and upon immediate pulling over and checking have found the oil levels to be fine. What the hell is going on there?

[chuckle-bus-tom]

Any ideas as to where I can get one of these?:



Thanks
Tom

[toomanytoys]

GSF might be the quickest place..
Does the light come on when ignition turned on? should do...

[chuckle-bus-tom]

no, no battery light at all, ever.

Just been looking at GSF. The numbers on the part in the photo hold no search joys, nor does a general search for alternator....Although their entire alternators are £150 cheaper than VWHeriatge.

[axeman]

is this what your looking for?

http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_act_shop.p ... try_GB.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

also earth the blue wire on the altinator to see if the warning light is working.

neil

[chuckle-bus-tom]

is this what your looking for?

http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_act_shop.p ... try_GB.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

also earth the blue wire on the alternator to see if the warning light is working.

neil

Almost! it doesn't look like the one I removed, a bit too long.

Anyone know which other VW vehicles the 2.1MV (Digifant) shared an alternator with?

[toomanytoys]

The brush pack is a pretty std unit on most... fits all sorts from polos to passats etc... Mercs, BMW and Fiats too..
Whats the number on the alternator??

[syncrosimon]

Only had the beast seven days and I've broken down already!

1991, 2.1 MV petrol with power steering(I'm new to this type of engine, having been a four year novice of the early DG!)

Also, I have a massive splatter of oil coming from the filler tube, and dripping off the heatshield down onto the front engine mount. I'm guessing this suggests a build-up of oil pressure in the system forcing oil back out of the filler tube, so intend on starting with an oil breather pipe replacement. The oil was changed prior to my collection, although was well over-filled, and with very thin synthetic oil, so I was thinking it may be this that has caused oil problems? I've had intermittent oil light and buzzer (not always together) warnings, and upon immediate pulling over and checking have found the oil levels to be fine. What the hell is going on there?

The other place around that area where the wbx can leak oil is on the crank behind the pulley. I have an intermittent leak from there, it only leaks though on short runs? and then only a little drop which ends on the fins of the sump.

If oil is leaking from the filler tube then there is an O ring which seals the tube to the case. I think that to get to this O ring you would have to at least lower the back of the engine to gain access. I replaced mine on the bench a while ago. A small leak should be seen as rust prevention.

I think that all wbx's should have an oil pressure gauge to see what is going on. You need at least 2 bar (iirc) when cruising on the open road. If the oil pressure is lower than that then the life of the engine coming to an end. The buzzer of doom can give false readings and the gauge is better. If the pressure is good then you can thrash.

[axeman]

i agree with simon on the oil pressure gauge 100%, you will learn to read what is going on in side your engine, you may will find this funny but i knew when to add oil, and even when an oil change was due by the readings from the oil pressure readings, remember that the wbx is a low pressure engine, once warm at tick over 0.5bar is normal, i have a braded s\s line with the right fittings so you can locate the sender in the engine bay for sale, if interested pm me.

also with the oil loss, last year at syncropendence, i stalled at the top of a steep and long decent, i was past the point of no return, so i had to bump start the van on the decent, the decent is the point all the oil was pushed to the gear box end of the engine, once the engine fired up it them spat oil out from the engine, the only thing that i put it down to was that there was a large vacume build up, and something had to give, the oil was spat from the filing neak seal, i poooooooped my self, but after looking around and cleaning the oil, fired her up, and the pressure and temp was as it should have been through the rev range (same as it was before). this made me feel comfortable to carry on enjoying the event, never happened since probobly 7or8k since then and all oil temp and pressures have been the same.

neil

[chuckle-bus-tom]

Hmmm, I'm becoming a little concerned that I may have a bit more of a problem oil wise. The filler tube connection to the engine is rather loose, and has a jubilee clip there that needs replacing at the least. But there are still two puddles when the van is parked that are from the front (flywheel) end, having dripped from the engine bar. I'm going to change the oil, filter and a selection of pipes this weekend in the hope that it's a bit of vacuum or pressure from a neglected system.

Got the regulator though, £13, so let's hope the battery holds charge!

[jed the spread]

. But there are still two puddles when the van is parked that are from the front (flywheel) end, having dripped from the engine bar. !

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... crank+seal" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

jed

[chuckle-bus-tom]

Spoke too soon! After a 45 min run with new regulator in the van won't start again! On a bus to go and get the battery out the camper. New alternator it is then.

[ELVIS]

Only had the beast seven days and I've broken down already!

The oil was changed prior to my collection, although was well over-filled, and with very thin synthetic oil, so I was thinking it may be this that has caused oil problems?

Have you dumped oil and filled with correct amount of mineral oil? Dont profess to be an expert but have always run mineral and dont appear to see many posts recommending fully synth

[Syncrobaz]

Have you dumped oil and filled with correct amount of mineral oil? Dont profess to be an expert but have always run mineral and dont appear to see many/any posts recommending fully synth [/quote]



I use 15/40 semi synthetic {castrol} in the syncro and mineral 20/50 in the old Aircooled beetle, apparently Aircooled like mineral cos it prevents overheating ??????

[ELVIS]

i dunno me'sel chap.

any oil thread tends to cause mirth/merryment/war but mineral appears to get more thumbs up. Lots in stiki-wiki