Idle problem

[Shaundon]

I have been having some problems with cutting out when idling and after checking my idle cut off valve i suspect its faulty. I removed it from the carb and connected it to 12 v and saw that although the plunger moved and i heard a click, it only moved a couple of mm and 90% of the holes it is supposed to uncover were still blocked by the plunger. Wher can i get a new one? Just kampers have an idle cut off valve for sale but it doesnt look the correct one and they say it works on all vans from t2's to t25's which i find hard to believe as surely its tied to the carb not the van (i have a pierburg 2e).

[Shaundon]

Heres a pic of the valve with 12v applied - shouldnt the holes be more uncovered than that?

[Novice in need]

Hi Shaundon

Try Lee&Gower they only deal with carbs i hve a quote for £36 for a Idle cut off valve, my stalling and checks of th valve are the same as yours but i will go the route of ignition amplifier ... iv gotta try somthing afterall

I take it as you have a spare amplifier that you have changed this ovr with your existing one to rule that out as the problem?

[Shaundon]

I havent yet!
I only recently read the thread that suggested it might be that. Previously i had come to the conclusion that it wasn't the ignition system as it doesnt cut out if i partially close the choke flap to pull extra fuel through the carb.

Given this i assumed it was a problem with the idle cicrcuit in the carb and i stripped it down and cleaned it all out , checking various vacum tubes etc., thats when i saw the idle cut off valve didnt open very much so posted here.

If this doesnt fix the problem i will try the ignitition amplifier but waiting till the weekend till i can stick it all togther and give her a good run out.

S.

[Novice in need]

Well il hopefully be able to sort mine on Thursday with amplifier, il keep you posted S... good luck keep us informed if you manage to resolve it please

[Shaundon]

"Balls" -
After getting a new idle cutoff valve from gower and lee (excellent service, very helpfull), i conected it to 12v and the new valve opened fully exposing all of the holes. So i connected it hopefully to the cleaned up carb and reassembled the van before taking her out for a test drive. As soon as the van had warmed up a bit and came off choke she started to cut out at junctions again.

Tried the other ignition amlifier i had but no difference. Turned the idle speed screw several turns until the van no longer cuts out but idle is high now and very irregular.

Running out of things to try here, think i'll try a new coil but the one i have seems to have reaonable resistance measured at primary and secondary windings so not sure thats it.

Whats weird is some days it just doesnt happen, others she just wont run right at all.

Did a new ignition amplifier solve your problem?

S.

[kevtherev]

Make sure you have no air leaks weakening your mixture once the choke is off.
Usual suspects are
vacuum pipes (brake servo, distributor and air filter box)
Carb inlet manifold gaskets and carb gasket.
Choke pull down unit

[Shaundon]

Hi Kevtherev

Checked all the vacum lines when i had the the carb off, all seemed well. Changed the fuel filter and cleaned the one in the carb inlet. New ht leads on recently. Sprayed carb cleaner about possible leak areas with no noticiable difference.

Could be a problem with the dizzy? Or perhaps the HAL sender in the dizzy?
or is it possibly a faulty cylindar valve?

What i can't fathom is the intermittent nature of this fault.

S.

[Novice in need]

Hi Shaundon

Right lets get her sorted ... i have been battleing for months on this problem Grrrr

Air Leak Air Leak Air Leak...... Kev is right there has to be one but where is it is the question? I changed all my vacum pipes and checked servo hose/return valve, gaskets, Choke pulldown unit, solenoid etc but it ended up being the (METAL)pipe that comes directly out of the manifold which the 90 degree elbow from the servo hose fits onto (give this a pull or twist see if its loose). I had to use Chemical metal on mine to re-seal it back in, which then really helped but this was not the end of my story O no..... after putting on a new ignition amplifier which i thought would do the trick ..IT STILL WOULD NOT IDLE !!! (O inbetween i found that the throttle cable was sticking aswell so i sorted that too.

So then i decided to re set the mixture as a weak mixture will affect idle .... anti clock wise to make richer and clock wise to weaken....
So far she seems to be running very well.

Hope this helps

[Shaundon]

Will check for air leaks again this weekend, am nervous about touching the idle mixture screw as if it was that surely it wouldnt be an intermittent fault. Also she seems to loose power when driving with this fault so i think there is a bigger issue , just not sure what.

Looks like my van was converted from a DH with fuel injection to DH eith 2e3 carb at some point and perhaps this is why its not right as carb not designed for this engine?.

S.

[kevtherev]

The Pierburg 2e3 was fitted to many, many, engines the WBX being one of them
an air leak will help losing power as the mixture weakens

[Shaundon]

Hi Kev

From what ive read online the DH was always fitted with Fuel Injection http://wapedia.mobi/en/Wasserboxer
Is this correct?

If it is then i assume mine has been modified and if so will it work ok with a 2e3?

see https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=81083 for a pic of the engine.

(Will have another look for air leaks this weekend)

S.

[kevtherev]

Like I said the WBX engine was just another engine.. whether it was DF DG DH even the 2.1i DJ Of which I have a pierburg on my 2.1 which was injection.
There's no modifying you just get a DG manifold and maybe a little porting on the manifold to match the inlets on the cylinder head.
Once the jetting is proved to be OK, you wouldn't know.

Someone has gone to a lot of trouble to remove the injection system and install a more basic fuel delivery system.
Mixture can only be adjusted using a gas anylizer. So don't mess until you can use one.

once air leaks have been ruled out completely then it's time to look elswhere

[Novice in need]

Hi all... i have spoken too soon and am fed up with this flaming intermittent stalling.

Just to run a query pats you's if you wouldnt mind... i have changed the HT leads and Spark plugs, however the connection points to the plugs wouldnt push on So i mimicked the original fitments which had the ends of the plugs removed to leave the threaded parts!!!

Is this correct or could this be the issue im looking to rectify to stop the uneven idle and stalling (voltage drops at idle doesnt it? so if connection is not constant then uneven idle would ensure ?

Any thoughts would be appreciated

[Shaundon]

Sorry to hear the problems still there

A loose connection on an HT lead could certainly cause problems , although this is less to do with voltage drop at idle and more to do with the loose conection. Not sure i follow how your ht lead is connected but the voltage drop at idle is the output from the alternator droping due to the lower rpm, i doubt that has an influence on the HT voltage in the secondry winding of the coil. At higher revs the engine can probably keep ticking over with one cylindar misfiring due to the momentum of the engine , but at lower revs it will cut out (assuming this is a misfire issue). Kev or someone else with more experience than me may be able to throw more light on this or correct me if im wrong.

Seems we both have pretty much the same issue, so hopefully if one of us sorts it it will help the other.

I'm getting hold of an oscilloscope so i can check the timing and all the ignition circuits and sparks. Will post my findings but may take some time as i'm limited to weekends as its pitch dark here when i get home from work.

Have you tried changing the coil yet? I'm thinking of trying that too.

S.