I've just stripped out my units ready for some body work to be done and I've taken loads of photos/ written how I did it in (hopefully so I can get them back in).
Anyway I thought although the instructions might need checking they may be useful to someone.
N.B I've put the fridge removal in from brickyard for completeness and because its a bloody good guide, I've just added in the photos I took.
Gas Pipes on my van gas pipe from top to bottom show in photo below go Top-BBQ Middle-Hob Bottom-Fridge
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k58 ... Fridge.jpg
1. Remove the draw
a. Plastic clips holding it in
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k58 ... wClips.jpg
2. Remove the Fridge (This is the guide I found and used from brickyard http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/remov ... 52749.html)
a. REMEMBER TO TURN OFF THE GAS AT THE MAIN TAP AND LET THE GAS IN THE PIPES BURN OFF BY USING THE COOKER BURNERS FOR A FEW SECONDS.
b.
c. 1) Open the fridge door and lift it straight up and off the hinges.
d. 2) Pull off the five plastic screw caps that are around the opening of the fridge.
e. 3) Unscrew all the screws.
f. 4) The front panel can now be removed by pulling the right edge forward and then sliding it to the right. The left edge has a lip that locates into the side wall so be careful you don't force it and break it. You can now see the edge of the fridge itself so get a pencil and mark where the edges are on the cupboard block so that you can line up the screw holes when you put it back.
g. 5) Take out the draw under the sink and clear out anything you have in the cupboards on both sides of the fridge. You need access to the little storage space at the bottom left and the top space under the table.
h. 6) If you look in the cupboard on the right there are two screws that go through the wall into the right side of the fridge. They were quite hard to find on mine as the heads had been covered up by the vinyl covering. When you find them take them out.
i. 7) There are also two screws in the same position on the left of the fridge. There is one in the bottom cupboard and one in the top storage box. Take them out. Note that the left and right screws are different lengths for when you put them back.
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k58 ... wSizes.jpg
(note larger on the left)
j. 8) Look in the right had cupboard. Pull out the brown mains plug (it's a two pin American type) and pull out the 12V plugs. There is one with three wires and a single one on its own.
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k58 ... ookups.jpg
k. 9) There is a metal pipe (for the gas) leading through a 17mm connector into the top right of the fridge. Locate this and undo it. Once you've got it loose just pull it gently back to break the seal.
l. 10) The fridge is now disconnected with the exception of the exhaust pipe.
m. 11) On the left side of the cooker block is a metal grill held on with two screws under plastic caps which you should undo. If you look through here you will see a black pipe with a silver flexible pipe going to the wall of the van. This is the exhaust. NOTE: some models may just have a long silver pipe.
n. 12) Go to the outside and undo all the screws holding the fridge vent onto the van. There are three holding the plastic cover and then three more holding a metal plate to the side of the van.
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k58 ... ternal.jpg
o. 13) Go back inside the van and push the fridge back as far as you can to give some slack to the exhaust pipe. BE CAREFUL NOT TO PUSH TOO HARD OR TOO FAR. You don't want to damage anything on the back of the fridge. Just an inch or so is enough to give you some extra working space.
p. 14) Outside again now to take the metal plate off the plate. According to other "how to" posts the pipe is supposed to have some screws holding it to the plate however there weren't any on my van. The pipe is a push fit but 20 years of heating and cooling means that it will probably be firmly stuck on. If pulling and twisting doesn't work try some gentle heat from a butane torch (CARE!!! - there is insulation very close to the vent and while it should be fire resistant you don't know what changes a previous owner might have made) - and watch your paint too. If still stuck try some WD40 (after it's cooled) and leave it for an hour or so. Failing all that you might have to cut it off but both the plate and the pipe are available from Gunzl in Germany (not cheap though!) so you can replace the damaged bits.
q. 15) The fridge can now be taken out with a bit of fiddling. Take care not to catch anything important as you pull it out. You have to tip it back to clear all the cooker bits.
3. Remove the cover under the sink
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k58 ... rCover.jpg
5. Disconnect gas pipe between floor inlet valve and yellow stop tap
a. Disconnect wires (spaded connectors going to gas tank)
b. Disconnect Sink drain pipe from base (jubilee clip)
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k58 ... ctions.jpg
6. Disconnect gas pipe to right of top red gas tap BBQ feed
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k58 ... Fridge.jpg
7. CHECK WATER TANK IS EMPTY
a. Disconnect water pipe from tap (Clear hose jubilee clip)
9. Disconnect pump power from tap
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k58 ... ection.jpg
10. Disconnect the Control Unit
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k58 ... olUnit.jpg
11. Remove Bracket connecting kictchen unit to drivers door pillar
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k58 ... Piller.jpg
12. Undo bolt fixing cupboard below sink to floor
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k58 ... Fixing.jpg
13. Undo 2 x bolt fixing kitchen unit to storage unit
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k58 ... geUnit.jpg
14. Lift out of fridge unit
I hope this is followable apologies if not
Removing 82 Westy Pop Top Cooker Unit
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Removing 82 Westy Pop Top Cooker Unit
1982 Westy Joker 1.6 diesel, soon to be AFN conversion....