Starting up from rebuild

[toomanytoys]

I wouldnt have fitted the dual vac to the dizzy... I would either refit the single vac unit or dissconnect the retard vac line and blank the line (not the vac unit though... and set timng to 5 - 7.5 deg BTDC... static.. rechec with vac dissconnected at idel if you can get it to run...
Recheck the points gap etc...

Dirty/stale fuel etc will cause poor running... is there cruddy stuff in the carb?? it will have let a tar like film in the carb after 3 years that wnt dissolve with fresh fuel.. jets could be blocked... worth popping the top off and having a look...

Presume checked the fuel and air filters to make sure no crud/birsd nests etc in there

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Thanks for the advice.

I quite agree with your advice concerning the single vacuum advance.

Carb cleaned through, and fuel pump delivery now ok

Though I've not finished setting up yet,( I will use strobe, dwell meter and CO analyser, (vacuum gauge on its way)), the tickover tends to die away, giving the throttle blip syndrome.

Do you advise me to blank off the T (3 way air pipes) on the carb..

What I really wanted to do was run the engine as a minimalist, ie a pict carb of my ex bay, (throttle linkage on wrong side), with a pancake filter (with crankcase breather), coil and points.

I'm an easy cruiser, so tranquil at 85 kph with 7 liters /100km, would be nice.

Cordialement



Cordialement,

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Just keeping up to date,

This weekend was fine and sunny, so I was able to play with the beast outside.

Thanks for the advice toomanytoys, and when I was changing back the vacuum, thats when I noticed that the tiny circlip that holds the locking pin in place was missing.....

Essentially the setup was as before, with mechanical points and the pertinant bits blanked off on the carb.

What is pleasing is that I am still able to use the standard air cleaner, and everything works.

I did have a chance at last to use my CO analyser, made by hawk electronics, at least 20 years old, and bought on E-bay for £10.

Super bit of kit, allowing you to set up the co screw on the carb, the accelerator pump, and tickover

I set the timing at 8 degrees BTDC, static.

So far so good, the tickover is good, about 1100 rpm.

Next step is to go for a run with my 10mm spanner handy and maybe give the timing another little nudge.

Cordialement,

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Now that the engine runs ok, I've had to look at other bits and bobs for the MOT.

Most obvious was one of the driveshaft gaiters. Even with the little I've used the T25, I have not been aware of any clonking from the back end.
So I decided in the first instance just to change the offending gaiter clean and regrease the CV joints..

Once the driveshaft off using a brass drift, everything went easily... take one CV joint at a time, remove, clean thoroughly, inspect and reassemble.






From the photos you will see that there is quite a lot of wear in the cages, but once together no bad noises apparant!!

This was carried out at my friends barn, where he has a pit, so he did the mucky stuff while I was making the safety rails for his fishponds.






Not VW related, but I thought I would show you the repair carried out at the same time on my elderly but reliable Renault 21 Estate. Though the car is in good condition, it is worth very little, and so the cost of repairs must be kept to a minimum

The problem was a 2" hole in one of the manifold to exhaust downpipes.

Had I taken it to Renault, they would have changed the part,(about 250€), and had to struggle with rusted studs, no doubt incurring extra costs

With the MIG welding plant I was able to run a bead of weld around the perimeter of the damage.



Then a second bead, staying parallel with the surface of the tube, so that the patch does not get too bulky.




This now gives a good thickness of metal to weld to, and the rest is finished in a spiral fashion.



I estimate the materials cost at less than 1€, whereas the garage would have charged over 400€. This shows how quickly you could recover the investment on a MIG plant.

For the technically minded : wire 0.8mm, Volts 16.4, amps 88 - 92.


Back to the T25...

I've not had a VW with LED's on the dash before, and the turn indicator is not working, everything else works OK, Iv'e had the dash pod off for the brake master cylinder , but I cant remember if the led worked before. Any helpful suggestions would be appreciated

Oh, and thanks Metalmicky for the heater widget, I've not run a CT engine before, and was surprised at the amount of hot air coming through to the windscreen...roll on the ski-ing season!


Cordialement,

[Plasticman]

Welcome.
Sounds like a fair swop, id reather weld something than crawl around in oil
mike