Clutch Pedal Adjustment.....?

[Justavan]

I've got about an 1" or 30mm of slack on the travel of my clutch pedal before it makes contact with the piston on the master cylinder.
There is about 10mm of adjustment needed on the cylinder push rod.
The system operates fine and there is no sign of any fluid leeks.
Access to the adjuster rod looks a right nightmare so I wondered if the more learned amongst you might give us a heads up on sorting this one out.

My thoughts on all the slack play are it may have never been serviced or adjusted..... OR ..... It might be the clutch master cylinder is not returning properly due to old age or crap in the fluid. The return spring is good and strong hence the doubts on the excessive play and the condition of the master cylinder.
The pedal has been like that since I got the Doka 2 years ago and have covered loads of miles without any clutch problems just don't think it is the norm and don't want to get caught out in the middle of nowhere with a failed clutch............

[Aidan]

access is "pooh", have to weld 2 long sockets together, wear may be in the clevis and or the pedal itself

[sandwedge]

Or take dash out and the peddle assy and make the adjustment then refit, as I had to. As Aidan told me its a good oportunity to check for wear and maybe fit new cylinders.

[v-lux]

You dont need to take the dash out. Or weld sockets together.

There is a real nack to it, but it can be done in situ. I did mine just recently. (mine is RHD by the way,...might make a difference?)

IIRC, you need to separate the pedal from the push rod, push it towards the front of the van so its laying as horizontally as possible. Then you can get a spanner on it and crack the locking nut. Once that undone you can then rotate by hand to the desired point and lock the nut off again.

It is very awkward, but it can be done.

[Justavan]

Thanks Guys,

Bently says remove instrument panel and adjust the push rod....? That book was money well spent........

V-lux I'll give your method a go as it looks to me if I bend the head on a 13mm spanner I might just be able to get a turn on the locking nut.

This little job will have to wait till I've finished my lessons at the Contortionist Night School..................

[sandwedge]

I hope you have better luck with that than I did.
After getting to the throwing tools around the car port point I took the dash out, and all was well with the world

[Yozza]

I had this issue last year and although I made a tool (socket clamped within a pipe using a jub. clip) this allowed me to make the fine adjustment to the piston/clevis assy. However, with 1" play it sounds like the steel section (part of the clutch pedal) supporting the clevis isn't round anymore (mine had worn so badly that the clevis had burst through the side of the hole. Like they said ^ it's dash out (and servo as I recall) to access the brake/clutch assy. Once it's out you may have to replace the clutch pedal for a good un or, if you've got access to 'tools' you can repair your existing one (ideally with a proper bush inserted).
Good luck and plan a day for the dash out, oh, and the steering coloumn shear nuts can normally be undone with mole grips.
If it helps I can take some photos of my old assy so you can understand what is under the dash in that dark hole?

[v-lux]

Seriously, persevere with trying to do it in situ. Mine had at least an inch of travel before the pedal engaged also.

I very nearly gave up, but managed it eventually. Each to their own in the end, but i managed it so im sure you can too.